radiator noob question/IAT's

[BRZPDX]

As summer approaches, and ambient temps creeping up, what kind of coolant temps are you guys seeing? And what is considered a "safe" range on temps?

If I turn on my AC or heater, I see my coolant temps drop to 190F, but spirited driving or stop and go traffic, it will shoot up to 215F ~ 220F.

I have a front mount turbo, similar design to FB kits, and was wondering what coolant temps you guys are seeing for various situations.

Also my IAT's are fine when cruising, but at a stop it will shoot up to over 100F (130F waiting in line at Auto-X). High IAT's while idling is ok? Once it gets moving, it will drop to +~5f ambient.

I didn't want vented hoods, but sounds like most people are going that route. Also gold wrap the intake pipe/turbo blanket might help some? I have also heard punching holes in the front bumper and replacing the crash beam helps as well (last resort, want to keep my OEM crash beam as long as possible). Will just taking the Styrofoam help too?

Oil temps are fine now with a oil cooler, just had some concern with the coolant temps now.

Thanks for your time.

[cdrazic93]

Styrofoam dam's for radiator, upgrading the rad usually means taking out the ducting needed for forced air through the rad. something to think about.

You can also modify the skid plate too, cutting some vents to inhibit a low pressure zone sucking out the heat. There hasn't been any data on the heat loss from functional side vents.

Vented hoods are probably the best option, but there are also rain guards as well.

Possibility of removing the fog light housings, replacing with mesh (protection against rocks n sticks) for venting...

That's all I can think of

[BRZPDX]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Styrofoam dam's for radiator, upgrading the rad usually means taking out the ducting needed for forced air through the rad. something to think about.

You can also modify the skid plate too, cutting some vents to inhibit a low pressure zone sucking out the heat. There hasn't been any data on the heat loss from functional side vents.

Vented hoods are probably the best option, but there are also rain guards as well.

Possibility of removing the fog light housings, replacing with mesh (protection against rocks n sticks) for venting...

That's all I can think of

What do you mean a dam for the radiator? Are you saying that helps with the air flow?

I already took out the fog lights so I get some fresh air to my oil cooler that I mounted up infront of the driver side bumper. No mesh yet, probably a good idea.

I have one hole on my skidplate, for the wastegate dump tube to come out of.

I remember reading that exiting the hot air is more important than trying to force air in.

I personally think only at 9psi on a gt3076, the turbo it self may not be creating so much heat, but rather just the exhaust gas flow from the up pipe is causing increased heat in the bay.

One of my buddy has the Nameless long tube header that goes up to the engine bay/radiator, and his heat increased significantly, similar to what I am seeing on the turbo kit. He also saw IAT's around 130F waiting in line at Auto-X. Just from the headers, no FI.

[cdrazic93]

Yes, the styrofoam dam for the radiator, when the stock radiator is taken out, so is the stock damming, which prevents air from going around the radiator, as soon as that upgraded rad is in, you need to fix up some custom styrofoam damming.

The skid plate venting was prototyped by a member on these forums.

Yes, if you had to choose one, exiting hot air is better than pushing more air in. But if you have venting like the fog light venting, then a vented hood that's an opening and an exit for the air to flow (semi-freely) through the engine bay. Same thing with functional side vents, just anther place for the hot air to exit, provided it has air to replace it via the foglight venting.

[ParangWala]

I've always been a visual learner, I hope this helps as I assume this is what cdrazic93 is talking about.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2931