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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous

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Old 10-24-2013, 05:10 PM   #1
sero901
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New FRS owner.. time for a build?

Hey everyone, first post on the forum! Im a new FRS owner, my last car was a 2002 WRX with a sti swap (~370 brake HP) so i'm really looking forward to a lighter, higher hp car. Might be a little premature to start a build thread but il call it a "planning thread". I'm looking at all the built FRS's and its got my fingers itching to get into planning my car for when i return from work overseas. I feel the best way to have a solid end product is to plan it with the people who know best (you guys) and go from there. I have been really considering using Dynosty for my build. the $14,900 is steep for a turn key turbo but i do strongly believe in quality and it seem to be the best route if money allows it.

This is a general build list i have come up with so far but being new to the FA20 i wanted to run it by you guys and see what you think, maybe there are some better options? I have been reading till the point of my eyes bleeding lol really hoping to see FRS300 build numbers as mine will be similar but i'm not going to hold my breath (sorry for you luck bro).

-dynasty includes install and tune
dynosty turbo feed pipe
Garrett GT2871 with Tial ss V-Band inlet/outlet turbocharger
Dynosty downpipe
Tial MVR Wastgate
Tial Q Blow off valve
Front mount intercooler
Dynosty intercooler piping kit
Dynosty intake pipe with K&N intake filter
Clutchmaster FX clutch and flywheel
Agency power header
Dynosty colder spark plugs
Deatschwerks high flow fuel pump
850cc injectors
Haltech engine management system
Haltech Wideband controller
Haltech boost controller
ECU flash with EvuTek

Greedy EVO3 cat back
Berk High flow cat
included in turbo
dampened fuel rail kit

-FA20 Built engine build kit
Darton sleeves
CP Piston
Carrillo rods
CARR bolts
Dynosty main studs
New bearings
Align hone
Micro-polish crank
balanced
bore and hone with torque plate
deck

cusco engine mounts
HKS s-type oil cooler
Cusco water to oil cooler
Carbon Fibre drive shaft
Axles
Shifteck Short Shifter
Cusco transmission cooler
high volume diff cover
Hose kit
Radiator

AP racing 4 piston rear brakes, 6 piston front brakes
Suspension:
Powerbraces's from cusco
Front sway bar with adjustable end links
stance adjustable lower controll arms
BC racing coilovers

So thats my current plan. Any changes you guys would make? i was kinda thinking bigger injectors as it looks like the fuel is the weak point now. Has anyone had any problems with the 6 speed? do we know what they will handle yet? rear difs? What are your views on a LSD. It will be a DD so reliability is a must but she will see the track a couple times a year. Pretty new to building cars but i have been building motorcross bikes for a while and sport bikes but cant wait to get more into the cars. That being said my knowledge is fairly limited in regards to the frs and forced induction so don't hate for a stupid question. once i get it planned i will post a step by step build only when i am 100% done with the car. I want all the parts to have a purpose and not just throw endless money at stupid stuff (like the cusco throttle body).
Thanks everyone!
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:17 PM   #2
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What is your goal for this build and what do you plan to do with the car?
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:40 PM   #3
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Instead of haltech and EcuTek you may want to look at hydra, may help with your total cost of the build. Both are great systems. For a 2871 I would not look into a sleeved block as it can not support the power to justify this. Unless you are looking at bringing the boar size up to help increase displacement. I am also seeing no previsions for the head, at minimum I would look into valve springs. You also did not state what type of power you are looking to make, That would not be a bad idea to figure out before doing every thing. Good luck with your build. Also the numbers from FRS300 and yours will be no were even similar. The turbo size difference plays a big roll here.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:23 PM   #4
sero901
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I really wanted to run a 2.19. I want a car i can eventually run in the Newfoundland targa. i have a 1987 944s i was gonna turbo and run but i chose top go with the FRS as its a newer model with WAY more opportunity to customize and loos of great exciting parts coming down the tube. Im in canada so there is no E85 here so i guess i'm stuck on pump 91 which is why i'm gonna drop the compression so i can get a bit more boost. Im thinking about the 10:1 for JE pistons. I was looking at the Crawford build and they went up 10% with there valve spring rate. it might be a stupid question but are the valves stainless or titanium? (this is coming from the bikes). I have notices no one is running higher lift cams, how come? i am going to do a port and polish since i'm going to this level just as well to go all the way. I went with the 2871 because i want to minimize lag on the bottom end. I'm sure with this build will take any cobalt ss or honda civiv with a turbo b16 on the highway anyway, which is the most important part right? XD hahahaha

Edit: I went with the haltech and the ecutech only because thats what dynosty is using and familiar with tuning but looks like i got more reading to do!
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #5
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There is full valve train available. People are currently working on cams but I would not hold your breath. Also go with what ever management your tuner is recommending. If your having dynosty do the build then go with what he wants to use. I did not know if you were just copy and pasting an idea for something you were thinking about doing.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:40 PM   #6
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The turbo and engine kits are put together by them, everything else i have selected. What i wanted to learn here is if the kits are components which have better alternatives or if thats top of the line for my needs. Don't know if this build is properly tailored to my need. ect... Aslo what are LSD'd like on daily drivers? will the stock tranny and rear diff hold up? i have picked out some coolers and what not to help keep the temps down but might not be enough to keep it from busting under the tq.
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