09-23-2013, 04:11 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
DIY Cusco Oil Cooler
Hello all
As some of you know oil coolers are highly recommended for this car if you regularly track it etc... I will probably re-write this and make it neater at some stage in the near future, I am still working on finishing the install and the main reason for starting this thread is because I need some advice to complete the install. I am not a mechanic, but an electrical engineer. I'm not too familiar on some of the terms, so please correct me if I am wrong. Yes, it would be easier to pay someone to do the install, but I want to do these things myself to gain more knowledge and to challenge myself. This DIY is all over the place at the moment, I am aware of that, will tidy it up when install is finished and I have more time, but at the moment there is nothing up on the forums regarding this kit except people speculating the performance. I don't want to go into a big discussion over air cooled oil coolers or the heat exchanger units that use your engines cooling system to cool the oil, but here's a few reasons why I chose the Cusco kit:
I ordered the revised AN kit which requires two radiator hoses to be cut, I just prefer the look of this kit to the original. Official Website: http://www.cusco.co.jp/products/etc-parts/86brz_mt.html Here are some images from the website including PDF manual in both Japanese and English: Last edited by lazyluka; 09-23-2013 at 03:43 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to lazyluka For This Useful Post: | troek (02-27-2014) |
09-23-2013, 04:11 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Before you begin, I suggest reading the PDF manual (included as printout with the kit), it's in Japanese but the diagrams really make most of the install self explanatory. I say this because it pays to be prepared and know what to expect.
You will require the following (just for the oil cooler install part): -Torque wrench (Must be able to do 30Nm and 45Nm as in instructions) -24mm deep socket -Sharp craft knife or similar (There may be a better way to cut pipes but I didn't know about it) -Philips screwdriver/10mm socket to tighten screws and also for coolant air release valve. -Pliers or some other tool to take off the self lighteners off the radiator pipes. -Toyota or Subaru genuine coolant (For warranty purposes) -Spare engine oil (just in case, in my case I did an oil change afterwards). (May have missed something, will update if I need to) There are instructional videos and DIY guides for the following: -Remove transmission under tray -Remove metal engine under tray -Drain coolant from radiator -Remove radiator hoses (To Do: Link to appropriate thread/video) Screenshot from manual with my notes added: (Will update to English Manual screen caps when I have time) Last edited by lazyluka; 09-23-2013 at 03:45 PM. |
09-23-2013, 04:12 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Picture 1:
I did the top hose first, you can see that I did not put the nipple part in, so this is where I learnt how hard it is with the flexible tubing to tighten it accurately, that's why I suggest doing it before hand. Picture 2: The nipple part is on, but it's kind of misaligned, hands too sore to re-do right now, may do it later. Picture 3: I could not get the bottom radiator hose off, so I decided to cut it as it was :P (There was still some coolant in this hose as I pulled it off the engine side, so be careful not to get it over your eyes if working from under the car). Picture 4: Next picture shows a gap between rubber hose and metal, also shows the metal clip is not going to be tightening the hose properly. This is BAD, I re-did it but didn't take a picture Pictured 5+ Pay attention to the alignment of the oil cooler itself, at first I had it over rotated and when the air filter box went on the hose would be squeezed by the box, so had to undo the bolt and rotate it away. You can turn it a bit more than I did in the pictures, but I thought this was just right. I also went back and shortened the bottom hose by a tiny bit to make it a bit less loose and now it doesn't stick out as much so there is about a 5mm gap between the hose and the air box. Last edited by lazyluka; 09-23-2013 at 05:15 AM. |
09-23-2013, 04:13 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Routing the top tube to the oil cooler
Assistance required. I need some help to finish this off. Personal experience tells me that the rubber hose should not really be in contact with anything unless it's tight enough that it can't move. If a rubber hose vibrates/moves along another surface it has the potential to wear out (and leak)!. According to the instructions, it needs to go under the throttle body. I have attached some pictures to show you what I have done. The Cusco manual, doesn't really offer much assistance here apart from a general idea on where to place the hose. Update After talking to some members from the NZ 86/BRZ owners club, it was suggested that I purchase some braided sleeves or similar and use that to protect the rubber hose from rubbing or damage. Pictures are from left to right. Not sure if this would be acceptable. Need to decide where to add zip ties as well. Opinions welcome! Also which is better 5A or 5B? 5A it's pressed next to a rubber hose, 5B it's pressed down a bit. Last edited by lazyluka; 09-23-2013 at 03:47 PM. |
09-23-2013, 04:40 AM | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2013 Firestorm FRS
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA
Posts: 2,707
Thanks: 1,231
Thanked 2,144 Times in 1,003 Posts
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
|
hmm, interesting...sub'd for details!
|
The Following User Says Thank You to continuecrushing For This Useful Post: | lazyluka (09-23-2013) |
09-23-2013, 05:08 AM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Here is what I would do if I were to do this again (Stuff in Italics is still ToDo):
Last edited by lazyluka; 09-23-2013 at 05:52 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to lazyluka For This Useful Post: | garfull (09-23-2013) |
09-27-2013, 06:55 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Raven
Location: Lake Worth Florida
Posts: 1,181
Thanks: 76
Thanked 366 Times in 252 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
Excellent DIY!
Great tip on top hose, I ruined one new Perrin hose my cutting all of the hoses first. I didn't route the top hose under everything. I've routed water hoses on static engines (diesel water pumps and diesel generators) on our farm for years, the ones that were routed under and through accessories always leaked over time from vibration wear. Are you worried about rubbing vibration on the upper hose through/under all of the parts? I realize I am being paranoid.
__________________
May'12 AT Raven, OFT V2, Perrin IntakeTube, Pulley & Overpipe,HKS Snorkel,FA20 EL Header,Nameless Frontpipe w/ Helmholtz, Crawford AOS, Cusco O2W Cooler, Grimmspeed Strut/MC Brace, Winjets w/D2S 3.0 HID by Illuminating Lighworkx, Fogs w/EU Stalk, LED's, JDM UnderPanels, Diffuser, Rigid Collars, Whiteline, HVT Camber Plates, Koni's, Swift Springs, GTSpec LCA, SPC Toearms, DBA 4K T-Slot Rotors, Ferodo DS2500, Vorshlag BrakeLines, MichelinPSS, 5Axis Wing, Raammat, Ensolite, JPM Coachworks, OEM+Ref400, 20mmspacers, TOMS
|
The Following User Says Thank You to tonystewart For This Useful Post: | normancw (10-11-2013) |
10-13-2013, 09:27 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Drives: GT86
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 347
Thanks: 576
Thanked 379 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
I too was paranoid about rubbing under vibration. I ended up covering the hose with a braided plastic sleeve used for protecting cables after consulting with 86 owners in NZ. It was fairly cheap, something like $5USD, but it has given me a piece of mind. Will snap more pics and update this thread. |
10-14-2013, 08:12 AM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Raven
Location: Lake Worth Florida
Posts: 1,181
Thanks: 76
Thanked 366 Times in 252 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
I shall look into that protective sleeving.
__________________
May'12 AT Raven, OFT V2, Perrin IntakeTube, Pulley & Overpipe,HKS Snorkel,FA20 EL Header,Nameless Frontpipe w/ Helmholtz, Crawford AOS, Cusco O2W Cooler, Grimmspeed Strut/MC Brace, Winjets w/D2S 3.0 HID by Illuminating Lighworkx, Fogs w/EU Stalk, LED's, JDM UnderPanels, Diffuser, Rigid Collars, Whiteline, HVT Camber Plates, Koni's, Swift Springs, GTSpec LCA, SPC Toearms, DBA 4K T-Slot Rotors, Ferodo DS2500, Vorshlag BrakeLines, MichelinPSS, 5Axis Wing, Raammat, Ensolite, JPM Coachworks, OEM+Ref400, 20mmspacers, TOMS
|
10-19-2013, 02:30 AM | #10 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: STi
Location: Hang Zhou
Posts: 62
Thanks: 9
Thanked 19 Times in 12 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Bump for updates on oil temp before and after!
|
10-19-2013, 08:38 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Raven
Location: Lake Worth Florida
Posts: 1,181
Thanks: 76
Thanked 366 Times in 252 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
__________________
May'12 AT Raven, OFT V2, Perrin IntakeTube, Pulley & Overpipe,HKS Snorkel,FA20 EL Header,Nameless Frontpipe w/ Helmholtz, Crawford AOS, Cusco O2W Cooler, Grimmspeed Strut/MC Brace, Winjets w/D2S 3.0 HID by Illuminating Lighworkx, Fogs w/EU Stalk, LED's, JDM UnderPanels, Diffuser, Rigid Collars, Whiteline, HVT Camber Plates, Koni's, Swift Springs, GTSpec LCA, SPC Toearms, DBA 4K T-Slot Rotors, Ferodo DS2500, Vorshlag BrakeLines, MichelinPSS, 5Axis Wing, Raammat, Ensolite, JPM Coachworks, OEM+Ref400, 20mmspacers, TOMS
|
02-27-2014, 02:15 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: 2012 Toyota 86
Location: Japan
Posts: 1,294
Thanks: 333
Thanked 396 Times in 285 Posts
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
installing mine today and came across this, in case anyone didnt know about it. And good job on the write up, very useful to see real pictures.
http://www.cuscousainc.com/downloads...rz_zn6_zc6.pdf |
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Cusco Oil Cooler | akuhei | Forced Induction | 126 | 08-19-2016 10:05 AM |
FT86 Suspension- D2/BC/Cusco/Megan/Tanabe/Tein/KW/Cusco/Ksport/Eibach/Perrin | JM Auto Racing | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 271 | 03-22-2014 12:17 PM |
New Cusco oil cooler | ahaghshenas | Engine, Exhaust, Transmission | 11 | 04-02-2013 10:48 PM |
Cusco Engine Mounts and Cusco Rear Diff Brace - Stiffen up your BRZ/FR-S!!! | RallySport Direct | Transmission and Driveline | 10 | 03-12-2013 02:11 PM |