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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#1 |
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First 86 Winner - Nor-Cal
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Max legal interest rate?
As a First 86 winner, I have to get the car, no matter what. Sure, sure, I can pass it on and wait later but it wouldn't be the same for me. My credit score isn't the best since I damaged it badly when I was 18 (23 now) and I'm figuring I'll get the max level of finance rate possible. My question, after searching the google sea, is what IS the max rate legally allowed to be set? In my case, the legal rate in CA? I am curious to know other states as well. Thanks guys.
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#2 | |
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Douchebag
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http://law.findlaw.com/state-laws/in...es/california/ The maximum interest rate any contract can state is 12%. California Usury Laws have some exceptions, but New Car Financing is not one of them. EDIT: I apparently lied. http://www.yourlegalcorner.com/artic...?cat=biz&id=97 1. Licensed Lending Institutions Are Generally Exempt From Usury. Most licensed lending institutions engaged in the business of making consumer and/or commercial loans such as banks, savings and loan, credit unions, finance companies, and even pawn brokers are exempt from California’s usury laws. See, California Financial Code §5102, §7675 §15000, §21000, §21200, §22002, §22009, and §22303; Home Owners Loan Act of 1933, 12 U.S.C.A §1464(5)(c)(4)(B) and the Building and Loan Association Act of 1931 (as amended). 5. Time payment contracts a.k.a. retail installment contracts and revolving accounts MAY also be exempt from the usury law. The Unruh Act set forth in California Civil Code §§1802.1, 1802.2, 1802.6 governs the financing of consumer goods (e.g. appliances, flooring, etc…) under a retail installment sales contract under which a seller finances the purchase of its consumer goods or services and the buyer agrees to pay in installments. The California Supreme Court recently held that if a bona fide retail credit sale is later restructured through the mutual agreement of the lender and borrower/purchaser , the credit-sale debt-restructuring settlement will be exempt from usury. Similarly, the Automobile Sales Finance Act (Civil Code §§2981 et. seq. ) regulates the maximum finance charges that automobile sellers may charge, although third-party financing arranged by the automobile seller is not subject to the Automobile Sales Finance Act.
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Here - 2014 Mustang GT Track Package/Recaros - Koni Yellows, Boss 302 Springs, BMR SB041 Front Sway Bar, Boss 302 Rear Sway Bar, Boss 302 Wheels, GT500 Quad Tip Axleback, 2016 Legacy 2.5i Limited
Gone - 2010 RX350, 2006 GTO (2nd), 2007 RX350, 2008 IS250AWD, 2006 GTO, 2004 G35 6MT, 1992 SC400 Last edited by LSxJunkie; 03-11-2012 at 11:25 AM. |
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#3 | ||
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Hook 'em
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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5 years is plenty enough time to rebuild your credit. You'd be amazed how fast your score can go up just by avoiding the things that drop your score. Assuming you learned your lesson years ago and corrected your behaviour then you might be surprised if you check your scores now.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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do you know your credit score? if you have to ask that question i think the best option would be to buy a car you can pay cash for or maybe have a cosigner
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#6 | |
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Hook 'em
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#7 |
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form follows function
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Check your score.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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Max rate in CA for auto loans is 25.99%, otherwise it's considered loan-sharking.
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#9 |
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Corner Junkie
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Check your score. But likely, if you think you're going to get a bad rate, you will.
Assuming you have little to no credit history, here's my advice: DO it if you are sure you can keep up with the payments. Do NOT do it if you aren't sure. The good reason to do it is BECAUSE of your bad credit. Loans do a real good job at improving your credit if you keep up with them. Even if your credit sucks, when you get your car loan, you'll get offers for credit cards in the mail. Do NOT take any of those offers just yet. They'll have limits that are too low. Get into some small, limited use cards like gas cards. Use them and pay them off every month. If you have to, set aside the money when you fill up and then use it to pay the cards off. Once you have established you're good at paying your loan and your small cards, look to see if you can get a big general-use card. If you can get one, put one purchase on it at no more than 20% of the limit, and make slightly above minimum payments. When you pay it off, do it again. Having a card with a high limit ($7000+) gives creditors some reassurance that if you have a rough spot, you can still pay your loans. To really get this to work for you, you'll have to have the big card for over 3 years, but it'll still help in a few months. Monitor your credit rating. Good credit rating sites will give your recommendations on how to improve your score. Once you get your rating up to a good or better level, you can go to a bank (credit unions usually have great rates) and refinance your car loan at a lower rate. Now, this will probably take 2-3 years of good behavior to work. But since you'll likely be on a 6 year loan, it will still save you a lot of money in the long run, and a ton more in the future. Good luck. Just remember that, like exercise, some pain now will pay off in the future. |
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#10 | |
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ZC6A2B82KC7J
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this is all very good advice.One more thing I would add is the site creditkarma.com is a great resource for knowing your credit score. They will break down exactly where your score comes from and how you can improve it, and you can even simulate what will happen to your score if you take certain actions, and it's all free. As far affording the car, it's up to you to determine what you can afford for a payment each month. If you can afford it and know that you will be able to afford it for the entire term of the loan, then go for it. |
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#11 |
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That Guy
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#12 | |
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First 86
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![]() If you sign up for it and end up defaulting, you'll be in MUCH worse shape than now. You're young, you have plenty of time for lots of different cars. Your patience will be rewarded. Brett
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#13 |
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Site Moderator
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Yeah you need to check your score to have any chance of knowing what your rates will be.
There are other factors as well but if it's something low like 550 I would not even bother trying to buy the car.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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I'm not part of the first 86, but I'm assuming you don't have to finance through the dealership so there really is no reason you can't find out what your loan terms will be right now. If you use credit karma to find out an approximate score a credit union or bank should be able to tell you the terms, but be sure they don't run a hard credit check as this will lower your score when you actually apply for the loan.
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