Feedback through newly installed tweeters

[mit_peid]

I am nearly done with my audio install with a Parrot Asteroid Smart HU, Rockford PX500XD 4-ch amp driving a JLAudio 10" sub enclosure and MBQuartz PVL216 components. Tweeters are installed on dash and not coaxially with the woofers. I love the way it sounds now (although I haven't even installed the 6.5" MBQ woofers yet). Problem is I am getting feedback through the tweeters when there's no audio playing which is annoying. Noise seems to start after the Parrot HU does some initialization after a few seconds. The Parrot HU also doesn't automatically play the last audio source played when you turn on the car so it adds to the annoyance.

I ran 4 gauge power down the passenger side door to the trunk where my sub and amp are.

Monster MPC I304 4-channel RCAs run down the middle console on the passenger side along with the 12V amp turn on.

My component crossovers are now underneath my driver seat with component speaker wires running from the amp in the trunk to the driver side of the center console to the tweeters in the dash.

Where do you think my source of the feedback noise is? Bad ground? RCAs to speaker-wire crosstalk? 12V amp turn on co-located with RCAs? Anybody have a super silent audio install with aftermarket amp & component speakers want to share how they eliminated or minimized feedback noise? (or at least how wires are run?)

[mashal]

I would start with bad ground , your wires are on opposite sides of the car so that should not give you feed back.

Oh and I have power on left , all RCAs and speaker wires on right , used stock amp for remote and grounded next to the right rear speaker.

If its not bad ground go for the remote wire .

Or if you don't want to do any of the trouble shooting , they do make feedback noise cancellation modules, can't remember the name right now but they like 30$

[mit_peid]

@mashal curious do you get any feedback at all? I'm thinking about using the stock amp 12V turn-on instead of the one I'm running too hoping that might be the cause.

[cruzinbill]

Are you still running the oem door and mid from the factory amp?

[mit_peid]

Originally Posted by cruzinbill

Are you still running the oem door and mid from the factory amp?

Yeah, I am. The speakers in the door are still OEM, being run from the factory amp. That's my next step of my install to take off the door panels and replace the OEM speakers with the MBQ 6.5 woofers that came with my component set. Just not looking forward to snaking speaker wires through the door grommets.

[sure74]

Details on the amp ground?

Running the speaker wire to the door sucks, just gotta suck it up and do it.

[mit_peid]

Originally Posted by sure74

Details on the amp ground?

Running the speaker wire to the door sucks, just gotta suck it up and do it.

I used one of the bolts on the factory amp. May not be the best ground since the bolts are somewhat painted. Perhaps I should scrape off some more paint to get at the metal better. The other thing is my power wiring might be too big (yes too big not too small). I'm using 4-gauge wiring and my RF amp says it takes 4-gauge wires, but I always have a difficult time getting all of the strands in there so I have to sit there and trim away at the strands just to get them to fit into the power and ground connectors on the amp. I should have probably just stayed with 8-gauge power/ground wires since they're easier to work with.

[sure74]

Originally Posted by mit_peid

I used one of the bolts on the factory amp. May not be the best ground since the bolts are somewhat painted. Perhaps I should scrape off some more paint to get at the metal better. The other thing is my power wiring might be too big (yes too big not too small). I'm using 4-gauge wiring and my RF amp says it takes 4-gauge wires, but I always have a difficult time getting all of the strands in there so I have to sit there and trim away at the strands just to get them to fit into the power and ground connectors on the amp. I should have probably just stayed with 8-gauge power/ground wires since they're easier to work with.

100%, you have to scrape off all the paint where the ground ring terminal meets the chassis. Also you have to make sure the 4 gauge wire is properly attached to the ring terminal. You may want to consider moving the ground to a bigger bolt, a 4 gauge terminal needs more contact with the chassis than a 8 gauge.

[mashal]

I have no feedback at all. the bolts for the factory amp are no good. get a longer ground wire and use the one next to the rear seats, one on each side next to the speakers

[mashal]

and for running the wires through the grommet, its easy .. first one took me 4 hours because i didnt want to break anything, second door took me 5 minutes to fish the wire.
Use some invisible glass and the wire will go easy without damaging anything else and it will dry up.

[mit_peid]

Hmm ... Not familiar with the invisible glass trick. Can you just use any glass cleaner to get a similar effect?

[mashal]

I don't see why not .. Winded will do the trick too, just don't use too much of it .. It's just to provide some lube

[ft_sjo]

First of all, are you getting the noise with or without the engine running?

Secondly, have you got the tweeter hooked up to a crossover?

[mit_peid]

Originally Posted by ft_sjo

First of all, are you getting the noise with or without the engine running?

Secondly, have you got the tweeter hooked up to a crossover?

It doesn't seem to be modulated with the engine (revving doesn't make the noise whine less or more). Even without engine on I hear it. It doesn't come on till the Parrot HU initiates some app or amp on the HU it appears, several seconds after i get in the car. I've improved my ground and still hear it unfortunately.

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