Tapped Oil Pan - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

whitefrs · 02-25-2013, 09:50 AM

Are any vendors planning on selling tapped oil pans, so we dont have to weld out oem oil pan.

No Limit Motorsport · 02-25-2013, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Are any vendors planning on selling tapped oil pans, so we dont have to weld out oem oil pan.

Buy new OEM pan. Bring pan with fitting to a local shop. Profit.

whitefrs · 02-25-2013, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by No Limit Motorsport

Buy new OEM pan. Bring pan with fitting to a local shop. Profit.

Do u guys do this?

Dave-ROR · 02-25-2013, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Are any vendors planning on selling tapped oil pans, so we dont have to weld out oem oil pan.

What do you need the tapped pan for? Gauge or turbo drain? If gauge, just buy a drain plug that doubles as an adapter to mount the sensor in.

Otherwise, the cheapest/easiest option is to drop the pan and weld in a bung.

King Tut · 02-25-2013, 01:13 PM

You don't need to tap it at least for the Full Blown kit. It isn't really thick enough to tap anyways. You just need to drill it and then weld on the AN fitting for the oil return. Mine actually has a pipe that goes from the edge of the pan to the front of the motor where the AN fitting is welded on the end of the pipe. By the way new oil pans are around $100. I would recommend getting one and having the welding done in advance so it doesn't delay your install and you can easily return to stock should you decide to sell your kit.

No Limit Motorsport · 02-25-2013, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Do u guys do this?

Yes we do. However you either need to show us where to mark it, or you need to wait until we install our Full Blown kit on our car (hopefully about 1 month) so we know where to weld it.

Pure Automotive · 02-25-2013, 01:28 PM

I highly recommend mocking up your drain on the car, marking the pan, drilling it, test fitting it and then getting it welded. The wrong angle and it will hit the block, the water pump, or be at an angle that doesn't promote proper drainage.

Not to mention, oil pans are on intergalactic backorder from Japan right now, I ordered a spare to have in stock, took 2 months to get and was supposedly 1 of 3 in the country.

whitefrs · 02-25-2013, 01:58 PM

Well i think having a spare one is always a good choice
@Nolimitmotorsports
Im goin with the full blown kit, im gonna order it soon

shiro · 08-29-2013, 10:31 AM

Hey Guys,

Getting ready to tap my oil pan in a couple weeks for my Greddy Turbo Kit. The kit comes with regular Goodyear tubing that is pushed on. Would it be better to upgrade the hose to use AN fittings, weld a threaded bung and use a braided hose? Thanks!

King Tut · 08-29-2013, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiro

Hey Guys,

Getting ready to tap my oil pan in a couple weeks for my Greddy Turbo Kit. The kit comes with regular Goodyear tubing that is pushed on. Would it be better to upgrade the hose to use AN fittings, weld a threaded bung and use a braided hose? Thanks!

I think better is debateable. It would be nice to have the assurance that there is no way the hose is coming off with the AN fittings, but I can tell you the OEM Subaru WRX/STI drain return line is just a rubber hose with the weakest hose clamps ever holding it on the turbo and the block. I probably wouldn't worry about upgrading it.

shiro · 08-29-2013, 11:22 AM

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!

ft_sjo · 08-29-2013, 11:35 AM

As long as the fitting is swaged, then you shouldn't have a problem. Like so:

(not an FA20 sump/pan, of course)

kanundrum · 08-29-2013, 02:00 PM

From Ptuning

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptuning

A few more goodies have now been completed.

Our CNC machined, anodized, billet aluminum turbo oil return plate kills a few birds with one stone. We can now replace the factory block off plate with a billet piece that won't leak like the flimsy OEM formed metal piece. We also negate the need to tap and weld a fitting onto the factory oil pan, which can often be a PITA. :happy0180:

King Tut · 08-29-2013, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kanundrum

From Ptuning

I know you are a Ptuning fan, but that won't work for 90% of turbo kits including the Greddy which is a front top mount.

02-25-2013, 09:50 AM	#1
whitefrs Love Boost!!!!!!!! Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Whiteout Scion FR-S Location: Long Island NY Posts: 3,612 Thanks: 429 Thanked 902 Times in 606 Posts Mentioned: 87 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Tapped Oil Pan Are any vendors planning on selling tapped oil pans, so we dont have to weld out oem oil pan. __________________ ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ I LOVE BOOST ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ

02-25-2013, 01:13 PM	#5
King Tut NASA SpecE30 Racer Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 2006 Honda S2000 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 7,279 Thanks: 607 Thanked 5,759 Times in 3,055 Posts Mentioned: 274 Post(s) Tagged: 10 Thread(s)	You don't need to tap it at least for the Full Blown kit. It isn't really thick enough to tap anyways. You just need to drill it and then weld on the AN fitting for the oil return. Mine actually has a pipe that goes from the edge of the pan to the front of the motor where the AN fitting is welded on the end of the pipe. By the way new oil pans are around $100. I would recommend getting one and having the welding done in advance so it doesn't delay your install and you can easily return to stock should you decide to sell your kit. __________________ - King Tut Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 \|\| Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 \|\| Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 \|\| 2013 Subaru BRZ \|\| 2012 Porsche Cayman R \|\| 2009 Chevrolet Z06 \|\| 2009 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 Nissan 350Z

02-25-2013, 01:58 PM	#8
whitefrs Love Boost!!!!!!!! Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Whiteout Scion FR-S Location: Long Island NY Posts: 3,612 Thanks: 429 Thanked 902 Times in 606 Posts Mentioned: 87 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Well i think having a spare one is always a good choice @Nolimitmotorsports Im goin with the full blown kit, im gonna order it soon __________________ ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ I LOVE BOOST ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ

02-25-2013, 01:28 PM	#7
Pure Automotive Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: 2013 FRS Whiteout Location: Millersville, MD Posts: 2,035 Thanks: 735 Thanked 1,952 Times in 650 Posts Mentioned: 147 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I highly recommend mocking up your drain on the car, marking the pan, drilling it, test fitting it and then getting it welded. The wrong angle and it will hit the block, the water pump, or be at an angle that doesn't promote proper drainage. Not to mention, oil pans are on intergalactic backorder from Japan right now, I ordered a spare to have in stock, took 2 months to get and was supposedly 1 of 3 in the country.

08-29-2013, 11:35 AM	#12
ft_sjo Banned Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: GT86 Location: The Motherland Posts: 1,398 Thanks: 140 Thanked 473 Times in 271 Posts Mentioned: 22 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	As long as the fitting is swaged, then you shouldn't have a problem. Like so: (not an FA20 sump/pan, of course)

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