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Old 12-12-2012, 10:44 PM   #1
mswhong
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DBA vs AP?

Hi guys! I've been a long-time lurker on this forum and decided that I'd contribute with this question: which system is better value for money?

Living in australia, I can purchase the DBA rotors (2-piece t3's) without warranting a hefty international shipping cost/tax and they are relatively cheap compared to the other brand!

So people, shoot me your thoughts and suggestions!

Cheers!

Mswhong
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:58 AM   #2
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One is just a rotor upgrade(DBA) versus a full brake kit (AP-caliper/rotors/pads).
For street use you'll be fine with just a rotor/pad upgrade.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crossover Auto View Post
One is just a rotor upgrade(DBA) versus a full brake kit (AP-caliper/rotors/pads).
For street use you'll be fine with just a rotor/pad upgrade.
I plan on tracking the car as I have with my other cars but I plan on going a lot further with this platform so I should have been more specific in regards to the DBA kit.

I was planning on purchasing fedoro pads and some steel braided lines as well and that whole set up costs between (approx) US 1.5k-2k whereas the AP kit costs around 3.5. Do you think that 2k-1.5k difference will be justified with the AP kit? Or will the DBA+fedoros+steel lines suffice?
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mswhong View Post
I plan on tracking the car as I have with my other cars but I plan on going a lot further with this platform so I should have been more specific in regards to the DBA kit.

I was planning on purchasing fedoro pads and some steel braided lines and that whole set up costs between (approx) US 1.5k-2k whereas the AP kit costs around 3.5. Do you think that 2k-1.5k difference will be justified with the AP kit? Or will the DBA+fedoros+steel lines suffice?
What are you using the car for? Figure that out and you'll figure out where you need your brakes to be. Most people will be covered by discs, pads, fluid, and lines. People going out to the track/HPDE and doing a lot of braking have found the stock system inadequate for their needs.

Remember, the AP kit (the 4 pot, not the 6 pot) is hard-anodized and has no dust boots...street use in the SALT will destroy them. The 6 pot kit is bling bling; it certainly works, but you're going to need massive power to utilize those huge discs (that add weight!).
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:33 PM   #5
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What are you using the car for? Figure that out and you'll figure out where you need your brakes to be. Most people will be covered by discs, pads, fluid, and lines. People going out to the track/HPDE and doing a lot of braking have found the stock system inadequate for their needs.

Remember, the AP kit (the 4 pot, not the 6 pot) is hard-anodized and has no dust boots...street use in the SALT will destroy them. The 6 pot kit is bling bling; it certainly works, but you're going to need massive power to utilize those huge discs (that add weight!).
I live in Australia so salt problems are no issue, but the AP kit is very expensive here locally (roughly US4.5k?).

I plan on using this car as a regular track, yet, high performance street vehicle. I just wanted some advice on which system i laid out in the previous posts is best value for money.

And yes, the 6-pot kit is where i want to be (ideally lol), but considering that I have no plans on going forced induction for another 3 years (australian regulations regarding probationary/learner drivers prohibit the use of turbo'd/sc'd or high performance vehicles) i don't see the need for them
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:37 PM   #6
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Start with discs, pads, fluid, lines. If you need more, you know where to go!
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:42 PM   #7
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alrighty then that settles it i guess, dba rotors + fedoro pads it is :P
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:49 AM   #8
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I plan on using this car as a regular track, yet, high performance street vehicle. I just wanted some advice on which system i laid out in the previous posts is best value for money.
This is another one of those personal opinion pieces but I live in Aus too but am going the Essex Sprint route. I think the weight saving over stock makes it worthwhile. It might be false economy going the dba + pads way.

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I live in Australia so salt problems are no issue, but the AP kit is very expensive here locally (roughly US4.5k?).
May I ask where you got 4.5k? I work it out at around 3k with freight and tax.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:17 AM   #9
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May I ask where you got 4.5k? I work it out at around 3k with freight and tax.
Oh sorry, I just came across another thread and i remembered seeing 3.5k with shipping costs to the us.. unless i was mistakenly in a aussie section
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:24 AM   #10
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Oh sorry, I just came across another thread and i remembered seeing 3.5k with shipping costs to the us.. unless i was mistakenly in a aussie section
$3k holiday price or something. 3.5K USD regular price for the 6 pots. If you're not seeing salt, I'd consider the competition kit. I still suggest rotors, pads, and fluid first. Lines if you feel like it.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mswhong View Post
I plan on tracking the car as I have with my other cars but I plan on going a lot further with this platform so I should have been more specific in regards to the DBA kit.

I was planning on purchasing fedoro pads and some steel braided lines as well and that whole set up costs between (approx) US 1.5k-2k whereas the AP kit costs around 3.5. Do you think that 2k-1.5k difference will be justified with the AP kit? Or will the DBA+fedoros+steel lines suffice?
Skip the small upgrade and go straight to the big brake kit. Buy once what you will need if you think you will need the added stopping power.

Also, I don't know what car modification classes you have over there, so you may also check and see what is allowed and what isn't if you plan on competitively racing.

I can attest that a properly designed big brake kit is never overkill. However, depending on the racing type, a stock setup with upgraded pads and fluid will get you far. If you say you aren't doing any major power adders in the near future, it is safe to go the rotor/pad route, or even more economical pad/fluid route.
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