Winter storage

[Skye]

Is it better to run the car on idle every 3/4 weeks or just leave it? Any discussion?

[Six]

I would just do an oil change, pump up the tires and hook up a trickle charger.

[TheSt|G]

Run it around for 15 minutes minimum once a week when the roads have no snow. Belts and fluids and all the rest need to be moved, and cars letting cars warm up via idle/short drives are worse than none at all.

[Aurex]

When I store a car:

Add fuel conditioner/stabilizer
Trickle Charger
Pre-storage oil change
Post storage oil change
Run car every couple of weeks

If letting the car sit over winter without running, you will want to "prime" the engine before firing it dry in the spring. By dry I mean lack of oil as the oil will return to the sump. To prime the engine, remove the fuel pump fuse(s) and crank the car over. The car should not start and the oil system should pressurize and provide oil to parts at the safe speed of cranking speed. Replace the fuel pump fuse(s) and start the car.

Make sure to check all fluid levels before taking the car out and to check the air pressure in the tires.

A good cleaning and a coat or ten of wax also help.

[CMOS]

Run the car every few days unless you're going to drown it in oil. Any parts that can oxidize will oxidize and when they move your clearances will blow out of proportions.

[Miniata]

I wouldn't start it regularly and let it idle for a few minutes, unless you can run it long and hard enough to get it fully up to operating temperature. I personally store four of my cars over the winter, although I do take them out whenever I can, but my criteria for doing so are that it is above 40°F, and there is no salt, snow, slush, rain, or any other crap on the roads. Sometimes that means I take them out a couple of times a month, sometimes they'll sit for 5-6 weeks at a time if the weather/roads are bad. If they sit for more than 3-4 weeks without being started, I'll put battery tenders on them, I have two tenders that I rotate through four cars, usually on one week cycles. I'll also push the cars back and forth every week or so to minimize flat spotting on the tires. Not a huge deal though, since whatever flat spots form go away after the first 10-15 miles in the spring.

[ESC POD]

IMHO...This all sounds like Great information...However, as long as the car is kept in a DRY & INSULATED garage or storage (kept at decent ambient temp 65 F?), then there is no reason to start/idle/drive during the Winter months, Especially with a brand new car. Having Vintage cars stored in the Winter time, a 1928 Model A Altered Dragster (Street Legal), 1964 C10 Custom, 1954 Deluxe 2dr...as well as my buddy's 1937, 1940, and 1941 Willys Dragsters (we weren't storing any Jalopys), we made sure they were Nice, Dry, & Warm all Winter. No PreStorage Oil change, only a Fresh one come Spring. Batteries were always disconnected. Again, kept Dry & Warm. See the pattern?? Dry & Warm...Throw a car cover over her and let her rest. Now if you are unable to protect the car in a Dry & Warm enviroment, then you should take the extra precautions.

Good Luck!!

Also, a spray of WD40 on the rotors helps protect too...unless it's Dry & Warm

[dboz]

Been storing cars in winter for decades. I change the oil. DONE. See you in the spring. Getting the car warm also opens it up to attract moisture condensation as it cools, especially the exhaust. This leads to rust. No need to worry about tires. Nothing rusts up. Even with an open carb setup.