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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2005 Subaru STi
Location: Sealy, TX
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extended DDPR stock FR-S Dyno testing
I figure I'll just post up the plots and then discuss them afterwards.
Here is the extended testing (250 miles to 8500 miles with 2 oil changes) with an ECU reset for curiosity's sake tossed in. ![]() Here's just the ECU reset before/after: ![]() All runs in 5th gear, on the same dyno (ours) and the same car obviously. Runfile 10 represents the best pull on a fresh motor with 250 miles on the odo. Runfile 17 represents the best pull on a broken in motor with 2500 miles on the odo and a fresh oil change Runfile 21 & 22 were done today back to back at 8500 miles with no changes but fresh oil from runfile 17. It represents additional power from break-in at the 8500 mile mark Runfile 23 represents a fresh ECU reset pull with ideal conditions (cold coolant, warm oil) Runfile 24,25,26 represent a hot motor and were done with zero cooldown between pulls. The second plot is just to give a good example of what a fresh ECU reset can do to the power plot. We previously argued that the ECU is more like a toyota ECU in that it runs max timing on reset and slowly pulls back timing as knock is detected. Other's had made the claim that it is more like a subaru ECU in that it runs a dynamic advance multiplier below max and slowly adds timing back in. With this dyno testing we can confidently say that the ECU runs max timing on the ECU rest. Furthermore we can give advice for those seeking to have parts installed on their vehicle, and or tuning. Based on our extended testing, we recommend not having the vehicle tuned until at least 2500 miles on the odo (and hard driving after the first 500 break-in miles.) We also recommend, prior to dyno testing/tuning, to reset the ecu get a baseline pull or 3, install parts, reset the ecu again and do the final after dyno. Doing it in this way will eliminate any power gains from an ecu reset and show just what the parts will make. Not doing it in this way enables others to potentially inflate their power claims. |
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Illusive For This Useful Post: | Davis (08-24-2012), Dimman (08-26-2012), industrial (08-26-2012), SpeedR (08-24-2012), tripjammer (08-25-2012) |
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#3 |
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First86 / boat thief
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: MKIV Supra
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Good info thanks for doing this for the community.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 13 FR-S, 00 Spyder&Celica, 08 Tundr
Location: Sealy, Texas
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Yeah - we were very pleasantly surprised to see break in still continuing to deliver HP gains at 8K miles. The 178 HP dyno also made us think that race gas may well be worthwhile on the stock ecu.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Drives: 2013 DGM Subaru BRZ (Subie #9)
Location: ATL, US
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How did you do the ECU reset just pull the negative battery cable and press he brake? That's how I always did it on my older Subarus.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2005 Subaru STi
Location: Sealy, TX
Posts: 78
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If you dont have a toyota techstream lic, then pulling the negative battery terminal is the easiest way to reset the ECU
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