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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#1 |
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Module to disable traction control
Does anyone still make the module that would delay 5 seconds after the engine would start, mimic a 4 second 12V finger hold on the traction control button, and then do nothing else? If so, where can I buy one?
Now before I get comments about not doing this or do this.... - I am not allowed to pull the fuse or tamper with sensors and stuff - I do not care about insurance issues on the road - I have the under dash switch to disable it when I loan my car to friends (I can not control if they choose to hold the button anyway) - I bought one in 2017 and am still currently running it on a 2013 FRS. No accidents and LOVE IT! I just bought a second car (2013 Subaru BRZ) and want to do the same thing without having to move it from one car to another. Lastly, if there are any electronics experts out there I can open the current one up so it can be reproduced. I will sign a waiver or anything releasing liability. Please let me know. Last edited by djcos35; 09-10-2025 at 03:43 PM. |
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#2 | |
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#3 |
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No one's going to give you any grief about disabling it. It's a junk mandated feature and I always turn mine off. It's just become second nature to hit the button or do the pedal dance if the engine is warm. I never drive with it on. Simplest, of course, is to pull the fuse.
I don't know of any off the shelf modules, but there are blogs on how to do this yourself, provided you are comfortable cutting and splicing wiring. https://brzfrsdiy.blogspot.com/p/dis...rmanently.html Copied from the blog: Purpose Install a hidden switch that, when activated, will cause the traction control system to automatically deactivate as soon as the car is started. With the override turned off, the traction control system reverts to normal operation. Method The switch directly connects the ground wire to the Traction Control signal wire which tricks the ECU into thinking that the Traction Control button is being held down continuously. Time required 1 hour Tools needed - Large flat-tipped screwdriver - Small flat-tipped screwdriver - Utility knife (sharp!) - Wire strippers - Crimpers - Electrical tape - Soldering Iron (and solder, duh!) - 6' of thin wire (or 3' of doubled speaker wire) - Flashlight - Wire coat hanger - Toggle switch of your choosing (Radio shack?) - Connectors to attach wire to switch - Connectors to attach switch to car - Label material or white tape - Black pen or marker to write on label There's a comment on the blog that says that this won't work because holding down the button permanently will cause it to come back on. I don't know if that's the case, but if it is you could install a 5 second relay and a time delay switch if you're capable. Basically it would work like this. If you have the switch turned on to disable traction control, then a delay switch will wait a pre-determined amount of time before sending voltage out to your relay. The relay would then energize for 5 seconds or so and then release. It could be automatic. ICM controls makes time delay relays. |
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#5 |
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Well, I may have found a way to build one for about $50. Ordered electronics. We will see if it pans out. Either way, not much sunk costs...
Here is one of the electronics.... |
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#6 |
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I think this is going to work. Does anyone know if the signal wire from the traction control button send a positive voltage or a negative voltage?
The switch can be wired either way. |
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#7 |
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The switch grounds the signal.
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You can do it for about $20 with a CAN ESP32 board, small 12v buck converter, and a bit of code.
The old Beastronix was a Arduino Uno with a CAN shield slapped on top, it wasn't sophisticated. Sends this one time 0x7C0 03 3B A7 00 00 00 00 00 Loops the following in order 0x7B0 03 3B 0B 80 00 00 00 00 0x780 01 14 00 00 00 00 00 00 0x750 2A 01 14 00 00 00 00 00 Just buy Gerald's box unless you want a project.
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#9 | |
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I remember mine only fires the 7B0 command to VSC for pedal dance to work, what does the rest do though?
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#10 | |
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Do you still send the initial command or are you saying you ONLY send 0x7B0? If it is the latter then that means it can be added to the normal AIM Solo 2 DL / AIM dash / etc send config. The limitation with what I was using is that AIM doesn't support single send or message ordering.
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Last edited by RedReplicant; 10-03-2025 at 04:21 PM. |
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#11 | |
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As for the other commands, judging from the ECU IDs it is likely to turn off the seat belt indicator and another function that I'm not entirely sure about.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Compelica For This Useful Post: | RedReplicant (10-13-2025) |
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#12 |
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One is likely to kill the TPMS alert
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| The Following User Says Thank You to redlined600 For This Useful Post: | RedReplicant (10-13-2025) |
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#13 |
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This can really jack with aftermarket dashes and such. So if you're running an AIM dash, it can cause problems.
Also, AIM dashes don't play well with the factory ECU (and confirmed by AIM) so there's that too. Unless you do the full pedal dance, the SC is never really off. And if it thinks there is inside wheel lift, it absolutely will grab the brakes. It sent me into 2 or 3x 360s across the middle of a track on a high G/high speed turn in the middle of a race that scared the shit out of me. I thought for sure I was about get T-boned but luckily everyone avoided me. It was absolutely mental. I moved to Motec the next day.
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2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc-
2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock. |
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I have a beastronix box, never used, that I'll happily let go. PM me.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | 2.2Lude (10-11-2025) |
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