Check your nuts! - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Four_wheel_drifts · 08-19-2021, 03:42 PM

In a quest to check every nut on my rear suspension, since I found a dangerously loose aftermarket toe rod nut, I found another loose one.

I replaced the left rear axle at the start of the season. Torqued it with an accurate torque wrench to Subaru/Toyota specs. Even dimpled it as instructed.

Well, after countless track days, the axle nut had backed out about a quarter turn.

Now it is torqued to "Les Schwab Monkey Lads with a semi truck impact gun"tm tight.

Running R comps seems to put much more stress on everything and work nuts loose.

So check your loose nuts, beyond the big one sitting behind the steering wheel.

steverife · 08-19-2021, 03:45 PM

Keep an eye on that. If they back off repeatedly, it is a sign of a bad hub.

NoHaveMSG · 08-19-2021, 03:48 PM

I notice the lock nut on my RacerX Toe arms and LCA's like to come loose. If you have the LCA's or toe arms apart again, I would cross drill the lock nut and run some nylon tipped set screws in them. I went to SPC toe arms and they haven't come loose yet.

Four_wheel_drifts · 08-26-2021, 08:30 PM

I marked the axle nut and axle end with a sharpie and checked the mark between runs. No movement over two days.

It would have been three days. Unfortunately, at the end of day two, my right front braided brake line (Goodrich) cut loose. Of course no store in Shelton had a metric 10-1 to 1/8” NPT brake line nor adapters for me to make a line. So I instructed only on Sunday.

New, updated RR Racing lines and adapters showed up today. With these, I’ll be able to use the spare brake lines from Aaron if I loose another line in the future. I bought the RR Racing system in 2016; I should have planned for the weak link in the system failing at some point.

Line looked like it was damaged initially by an impact (rock?), then eventually failed at the kink which I hadn’t noticed.

I really appreciate that the Ridge added run off asphalt at turn 13. Not a place where you want the brake pedal to go to the floor, without a hill to slide up and scrub speed (ala turn 2).

CrowsFeast · 08-27-2021, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts

I marked the axle nut and axle end with a sharpie and checked the mark between runs. No movement over two days.

It would have been three days. Unfortunately, at the end of day two, my right front braided brake line (Goodrich) cut loose. Of course no store in Shelton had a metric 10-1 to 1/8” NPT brake line nor adapters for me to make a line. So I instructed only on Sunday.

New, updated RR Racing lines and adapters showed up today. With these, I’ll be able to use the spare brake lines from Aaron if I loose another line in the future. I bought the RR Racing system in 2016; I should have planned for the weak link in the system failing at some point.

Line looked like it was damaged initially by an impact (rock?), then eventually failed at the kink which I hadn’t noticed.

I really appreciate that the Ridge added run off asphalt at turn 13. Not a place where you want the brake pedal to go to the floor, without a hill to slide up and scrub speed (ala turn 2).

I'm going off topic here but I've been contemplating braided brake lines for a while now. I currently only have 1 car though and I've heard that braided lines may rust from the salt in the winter. Any truth to that? I thought they still had a nylon coating. You mention planning for them to fail at some point; how long do they typically last vs stock lines?

NoHaveMSG · 08-27-2021, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts

I really appreciate that the Ridge added run off asphalt at turn 13. Not a place where you want the brake pedal to go to the floor, without a hill to slide up and scrub speed (ala turn 2).

Geesh, I would not want to go off at 13

Four_wheel_drifts · 08-28-2021, 08:30 PM

This is the first time I’ve had one fail. It lasted about four years and many, many track hours.

The speed and g forces we put on these cars, breaks things, makes parts come loose, or plain wears them out.

Especially since I started running r comps again!

The lines were a good brand. Track demands just took their toll.

Turfer · 09-05-2021, 11:32 PM

We over torque those bolts with long wrenches and use a paint pen to mark our alignment position. The mark helps with returning the alignment quickly back to close to where it needs to be when it moves. But, yes, put wrenches on these bolts every session.

In SCCA T4 configuration, 2925lb min with 55mm restrictor plate times were 55's/56's at The Ridge. 54's in the AM right conditions are doable

R

08-19-2021, 03:42 PM	#1
Four_wheel_drifts Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Drives: Whiteout track car; lava donor Location: Portland, OR Posts: 245 Thanks: 87 Thanked 64 Times in 40 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	Check your nuts! In a quest to check every nut on my rear suspension, since I found a dangerously loose aftermarket toe rod nut, I found another loose one. I replaced the left rear axle at the start of the season. Torqued it with an accurate torque wrench to Subaru/Toyota specs. Even dimpled it as instructed. Well, after countless track days, the axle nut had backed out about a quarter turn. Now it is torqued to "Les Schwab Monkey Lads with a semi truck impact gun"tm tight. Running R comps seems to put much more stress on everything and work nuts loose. So check your loose nuts, beyond the big one sitting behind the steering wheel.

08-26-2021, 08:30 PM	#4
Four_wheel_drifts Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Drives: Whiteout track car; lava donor Location: Portland, OR Posts: 245 Thanks: 87 Thanked 64 Times in 40 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	I marked the axle nut and axle end with a sharpie and checked the mark between runs. No movement over two days. It would have been three days. Unfortunately, at the end of day two, my right front braided brake line (Goodrich) cut loose. Of course no store in Shelton had a metric 10-1 to 1/8” NPT brake line nor adapters for me to make a line. So I instructed only on Sunday. New, updated RR Racing lines and adapters showed up today. With these, I’ll be able to use the spare brake lines from Aaron if I loose another line in the future. I bought the RR Racing system in 2016; I should have planned for the weak link in the system failing at some point. Line looked like it was damaged initially by an impact (rock?), then eventually failed at the kink which I hadn’t noticed. I really appreciate that the Ridge added run off asphalt at turn 13. Not a place where you want the brake pedal to go to the floor, without a hill to slide up and scrub speed (ala turn 2). Last edited by Four_wheel_drifts; 08-26-2021 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Grammar

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08-19-2021, 03:45 PM	#2
steverife Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2018 Drives: 2016 Scion FRS Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 478 Thanks: 62 Thanked 291 Times in 192 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	Keep an eye on that. If they back off repeatedly, it is a sign of a bad hub.

08-28-2021, 08:30 PM	#7
Four_wheel_drifts Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Drives: Whiteout track car; lava donor Location: Portland, OR Posts: 245 Thanks: 87 Thanked 64 Times in 40 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	This is the first time I’ve had one fail. It lasted about four years and many, many track hours. The speed and g forces we put on these cars, breaks things, makes parts come loose, or plain wears them out. Especially since I started running r comps again! The lines were a good brand. Track demands just took their toll.

09-05-2021, 11:32 PM	#8
Turfer Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Drives: Scion Location: WA Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 55 Times in 21 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	We over torque those bolts with long wrenches and use a paint pen to mark our alignment position. The mark helps with returning the alignment quickly back to close to where it needs to be when it moves. But, yes, put wrenches on these bolts every session. In SCCA T4 configuration, 2925lb min with 55mm restrictor plate times were 55's/56's at The Ridge. 54's in the AM right conditions are doable R

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