Got Corner Balanced and Aligned

[track_warrior]

Ok guys i just got done corner balancing and aligning the car with soul speed on wednesday. They align and corner balance right at the race track so its nice i got to test and tune my setup. Thought i would share my specs with the community. I didnt drive it with my track tires nor did i push it too much since i only had a chance to drive it a couple of laps and slowly since they were mowing grass around the track but i can say it felt great so well balanced even with the staggered setup. Tomorrow i will be lapping around the track with my track setup ( 17x8 RPF1'S on 245/40/17 RS3'S ) I will chime in on how it goes. This alignment will be my starting point and i will be adjusting specs as needed.

Notes:
-The weigh of the car posted in the corner balance sheet reads 2918 pounds but that is with the weight of the driver (me) which i am 200 pounds alignment guy made a mistake on the sheet but corrected it.
-I did the alignment and corner balance with my heavy street wheels as well 18 inch staggered kiwamis.
-Gas Tank was Full to the top as the gas station was right out side the track.
-Interior was empty no backpacks etc
-No tools or spare tire
-Total weight of just the car taking away my 200 pounds is = to 2718 pounds full of gas.
-Asked for a good an Aggressive Street / Track Setup

Suspension & Chassis Setup:

-KW V3'S
-Cusco Thicker Rear Sway Bar
-White Line Sway bar end links
-Vorshlag Front Camber Plates
-Cusco Rear Adjustable Arms
-Cusco Front Member Brace
-Cusco Rear side Member Braces

Visit: www.soulspeed.com

Below are the specs.

[Asphaltfrs1]

Question. On the alignment sheet, the front camber, caster and toe are different on the left side from the right. Wouldn't it be better to have the same numbers on both sides? I've always wondered why techs wouldn't just have then equal the same (ex: RF -.01 camber RL
-.02 camber. Why not just -.02 on both sides, instead of being unequal)
I'm not very experienced with alignment, so it's just a question that might receive a good answer thus making me more savvy in this area. Thanks

[ZDan]

There's zero point to chasing everything to 0.01degrees. A fair amount of effort for zero benefit.
Camber within a couple of tenths is fine. Toe within .05degrees also fine.

Understand that as you adjust one parameter, others change slightly as well. Also, just driving off and back onto the alignment stand you'll get slightly different readings, so getting everything to .01 degrees is pointless.

[Pscylo]

If your going to lie about your weight, use white out! =)

[track_warrior]

Originally Posted by Pscylo

If your going to lie about your weight, use white out! =)

Didnt lie, alignment guy got confused on my weight.

Originally Posted by Asphaltfrs1

Question. On the alignment sheet, the front camber, caster and toe are different on the left side from the right. Wouldn't it be better to have the same numbers on both sides? I've always wondered why techs wouldn't just have then equal the same (ex: RF -.01 camber RL
-.02 camber. Why not just -.02 on both sides, instead of being unequal)
I'm not very experienced with alignment, so it's just a question that might receive a good answer thus making me more savvy in this area. Thanks

Its such a small difference its almost undetectable. In a car if you fart the alignment changes just a bit.

[enjoyminutemaid]

Those alignment specs look perfect for DD/track compromise. Did you get camber bolts or are you just relying on the plates for up front? I continue to be surprised by the degree of rear toe-out that a few people have measured with the BRZ/FR-Ss from the factory.

[track_warrior]

Originally Posted by enjoyminutemaid

Those alignment specs look perfect for DD/track compromise. Did you get camber bolts or are you just relying on the plates for up front? I continue to be surprised by the degree of rear toe-out that a few people have measured with the BRZ/FR-Ss from the factory.

Agreed this is my aggressive street / track setup. I only used the camber plates up front, let me add that vorshlag makes a great product made right here in texas. The Before degree of toe was caused by the installation of the rear camber arms, it drove horribly pulled me everywhere just to get to the track it was a nightmare.

Anyways im off to the track ill let you guys know how it works out.

Originally Posted by pcasso87

Agreed this is my aggressive street / track setup. I only used the camber plates up front, let me add that vorshlag makes a great product made right here in texas. The Before degree of toe was caused by the installation of the rear camber arms, it drove horribly pulled me everywhere just to get to the track it was a nightmare.

Anyways im off to the track ill let you guys know how it works out.

Hi mate can you post pics of your car with the kiwamis? I'm getting exact same wheels on a white brz cheers

[schtebie]

Originally Posted by Paragon

Hi mate can you post pics of your car with the kiwamis? I'm getting exact same wheels on a white brz cheers

pcasso already created a thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12727

[djdnz]

Originally Posted by Paragon

Hi mate can you post pics of your car with the kiwamis? I'm getting exact same wheels on a white brz cheers

There are more in this link
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...440#post351440

[schtebie]

Originally Posted by pcasso87

Agreed this is my aggressive street / track setup. I only used the camber plates up front, let me add that vorshlag makes a great product made right here in texas. The Before degree of toe was caused by the installation of the rear camber arms, it drove horribly pulled me everywhere just to get to the track it was a nightmare.

Anyways im off to the track ill let you guys know how it works out.

How'd the day at the track go?

I'm interested to hear your impressions with all of the Cusco parts installed.

[BAE]

How did the 2 deg camber in front and 1.6 rear influence the balance. Did you get more oversteer? I have earlier found 1.5 deg neg camber to be a nice balance between track and DD.

[track_warrior]

Originally Posted by schtebie

How'd the day at the track go?

I'm interested to hear your impressions with all of the Cusco parts installed.

Great man!! Had an excellent day except for my whiteline sway bar endlinks were hitting the control arms (Thank God i had a spare of Perrin end links) also my exhaust came loose and hit the floor hard so it bent a bit lol, it wasnt Agency Power's fault but mine i did not tighten the clamp enough.

As for the cusco parts what a difference my best lap time stock was a 1.35.9 Today i beat that with a 1.33.1 and even with my brakes dying on me, im sure i would have gotten a much better time with fluid and pads but i had a hard time making the car stop since the track temp was 110F. With the new alignment the car felt very planted and inspired a lot more confidence through the high speed stuff car felt very neutral the back end never stepped out of line and when it did it was a 4 wheel controlled drift. I do like my cars a bit tail happy so i might ad a softer bar up front and play with rebound and bump stiffness.

Originally Posted by BAE

How did the 2 deg camber in front and 1.6 rear influence the balance. Did you get more oversteer? I have earlier found 1.5 deg neg camber to be a nice balance between track and DD.

No over steer over at all the car felt very neutral and controlled. The alignment makes the car handle much better and my sidewalls are not being torn up like before. I still think i would get away with -2.5 Front and -2 Rear but since i do drive it in the street i might stick with these settings for now. I think this is an awesome setup for those looking for a Aggressive Street / Track Setup. Pure track would be something above -2 Front and -1.5 Rear. I would like to tr -2.5 Front and -2 Rear to see how it works out next.


Here are some pics that i took at the track, vids coming soon and will be posted in my Track/build thread (in one of them i give a e92 m3 a run for its money):

Front Tires





Rear Tires:





Rotors






Bent Exhaust

[pdreams]

Am I interpreting it wrong or is the overall F/R or L/R weight distribution suppose to change? Doesn't match up unless weight was removed before and after cross weighting. Seemed to have lost a few pounds here and there or is the equipment suppose to have some accuracy tolerance?