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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe

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Old 04-02-2017, 04:46 PM   #1
pevsfreedom
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Proximity opening not working

IDK what happened last week but now the doors/trunk won't unlock when I walk near the car and try to open it. I have to manually press the button. I have BRZ Limited 2014. Anyone know how to fix this?
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Old 04-02-2017, 07:17 PM   #2
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I had a similar issue not long ago. Turned out the battery in my fob was dying. Went to a dealer and it was like $8 and they swapped it out for me, all in all about 5 minutes.

edit: If I recall, they changed me $8 to swap batteries in both fobs.
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:57 PM   #3
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Definitely check batteries in the fob. Also, anything in between the car and fob can interfere, so if it's in a backpack, a pocket with a cellphone, etc... But my guess is battery.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:10 AM   #4
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Yup, it was the battery. Grabbed my other key.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:57 AM   #5
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Don't get the fob switched at the dealer, that would be a complete waste of time and money. Just go buy a replacement button battery (pretty sure its a CR2032) for a few bucks and put it in yourself. The fob is very easy to dismantle and put back together.

Another thing affecting my keyless entry was my magnetic apartment key which was on the same chain as the fob. Removed that and it worked much more consistently.

Last edited by Silver Cervy; 04-03-2017 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:07 AM   #6
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The correct battery size for a 2014 is CR1632. It costs $3 at Walmart or Best Buy.

To replace the battery in a 2014 remote:

Press the button on the side of the remote to release the mechanical key and pull it out. Where the head of the mechanical key usually sits, you'll see a slot. The end of the mechanical key is made to fit into that slot. Stick it in there and twist it to pop the case open.

The battery is on the back of the circuit board (the side facing away from the remote buttons). Sometimes the board will stick to the back half of the case and will have to be gently pried out with the end of the key. To remove the battery, gently pry away the tiny black tabs that hold it in place, then put a new one in the same direction (flat side facing you). Put the circuit board back where you found it, press the halves of the case back together and reinsert the mechanical key.

These batteries last about two years whether you use them or not. When mine went out, my never-used spare was dead also, which made me think there was a problem with the car. Changing both batteries brought both remotes back to life. If you're using the spare now, be prepared for it to die also.

Last edited by extrashaky; 04-03-2017 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 03:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrashaky View Post
The correct battery size is CR1632. It costs $3 at Walmart or Best Buy.

To replace:

Press the button on the side of the remote to release the mechanical key and pull it out. Where the head of the mechanical key usually sits, you'll see a slot. The end of the mechanical key is made to fit into that slot. Stick it in there and twist it to pop the case open.

The battery is on the back of the circuit board (the side facing away from the remote buttons). Sometimes the board will stick to the back half of the case and will have to be gently pried out with the end of the key. To remove the battery, gently pry away the tiny black tabs that hold it in place, then put a new one in the same direction (flat side facing you). Put the circuit board back where you found it, press the halves of the case back together and reinsert the mechanical key.

These batteries last about two years whether you use them or not. When mine went out, my never-used spare was dead also, which made me think there was a problem with the car. Changing both batteries brought both remotes back to life. If you're using the spare now, be prepared for it to die also.
Keep in mind those instructions only apply to the early remotes. 2015+ remotes use a CR2032 and the key can't be used to open them like the old ones (which is a sad oversight).
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:58 AM   #8
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Thanks for info on switching batteries. Always good to save $ and avoid dealer.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:08 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by pevsfreedom View Post
Thanks for info on switching batteries. Always good to save $ and avoid dealer.
It is all in the owner's manual.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poodles View Post
Keep in mind those instructions only apply to the early remotes. 2015+ remotes use a CR2032 and the key can't be used to open them like the old ones (which is a sad oversight).
Thanks for the clarification. I have edited my post accordingly.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:11 PM   #11
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Can confirm. My 13 key died a month ago so I swapped to the spare. Then the spare died yesterday...
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:22 PM   #12
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It's probably a good idea for the '13 and '14 owners to just go ahead and swap batteries before you experience issues. If it goes on for too long you'll be a dummy like me and you won't be able to start your car

There are emergency start instructions in the owners manual if your fob dies though. Essentially you hold your fob up against the start button, hold clutch in, and hold the start button for ~30 seconds. When you let it out it should turn on in accessory mode. One more click and the car should start.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:07 PM   #13
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Mine was totally dead the other day and just taping it to the start button put it in accessory (no clutch). Then it could be started like normal after. I believe it's just and rfid as a backup. The whole alarm going off because I used the key was annoying though.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:40 PM   #14
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The spare is not really usefull if they both die at the same time...
Would it be possible to keep the battery out of the spare fob so it doesn't get drained? Would the key become "unprogrammed" if left without battery for multiple months?
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