DIY: Whiteline Positive Traction kit (KTD922) installation

[Tor]

After reading this thread, I have been putting off installing the Whiteline Positive Traction kit out of fear of x-threading the bolts.

Today I installed it and at the same time made a video. If anyone is interested:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3CE29SNT4c[/ame]

[oldgunfan]

let us know if you can tell a differance. Looked like a pain in the ass install

[Tor]

Originally Posted by oldgunfan

let us know if you can tell a differance. Looked like a pain in the ass install

I am curious myself. The car is still on jack stands so can't say anything yet.

Yes, but at the same time the install was actually quite satisfying. At first it was worrying if the bolts would actually go back in without force. But it felt equally rewarding when they effortlessly could be screwed in by hand.

[Tor]

Short review after a 1 and half hour drive:

The difference is real and substantial. It was pouring rain, 7 deg C (44 F), and on Yokohama AD08R. Perfect conditions to test out a "positive traction" upgrade.

I always disliked the feeling of wheelspin with this car as I could clearly feel the subframe jump back and forward. Felt like wheel hop and like something could break any second. That feeling is mostly gone! The slight remaining motion I suppose is due to the soft diff mounts. In any case, wheelspin feels much more controllable and less "scary" and smooth forward motion. Not that I intend to do burn-outs all the time but it sure is nice that it feels smooth and controllable if wheel spin happens.

Another thing I disliked stock is the "disconnected" feeling from the rear wheels. The car now feels slightly harder and I can feel what each wheel is doing. Kind of like more go-kart feel, which should be logic from making it more rigid.

The comfort didn't change much. But keep in mind that I already have coilovers, is significantly lowered and the Yokohama tires have stiff sidewalls. It may bit slightly more uncomfortable on (very) bumpy road. I didn't notice any noise or vibration. Except it became obvious that I suffer from the TSB 12-140-12 "Popping Sound from Trunk / Rear Shelf Area". I knew that already but it didn't bother me before. I'll get that fixed now.

Otherwise my advice to everyone: Get them installed.


If anyone considers doing it and watches my video, you can see there are several steps that you can skip directly and it's actually not that hard and can be done in considerably less time. That was the point of the video, to show what methods work and what don't.

Short version:

Rear:
- Support both front and rear (2 jacks or similar required).
- Take out the rear bolts completely.
- Loosen the front bolts 2 cm.
- Insert rear bushings.
- Realign subframe with pressure from your foot, simultaneously screwing in the bolts. Adjust pressure until the bolts screw in without effort. Leave them a 2 cm loose.

Front:
- Take the bolts out/brackets off.
- Lower subframe
- Take out big metal washers. Insert the washers again together with bushings.
- Raise the subframe
- Screw in bolts. If any resistance lower/raise subframe until they go in without effort.

- Tighten everything up. By the way, the torque specs according to the workshop manual is 145 nm, Whiteline has a much lower value in their instructions. I used the value from the manual.

[Bodalenko]

And you used loctite? Red or blue? Getting the bolts/holes lined up seems to be the biggest issue. I think keeping the car level, as possible as you can, on stands helps. Doing them with just the rear raised throws the weight of the subframe fwd and the holes out of alignment. Also remember to remove any of the left over OEM loctite/gunk from the bolts with a wire brush wether by hand or machine.

[wrh3]

I installed this a few weeks ago, substantial improvement in feel/feedback and I didn't have any issues with the bolts- just followed F1point4's DIY guide and read several other threads/Whiteline instructions first.

Thanks for the video Tor, another resource

[Somerandom18]

Have had these in my garage since October.. maybe I should put them on.

NE Ohio represent.

[FrostedFlakes]

I have installed these, and every DIY I have seen seemed to forget to include one crucial safety step. You need to have an extra jack to support the sub-frame for safety in the event it falls or collapse on you when removing the bolts. Some may disagree and say that it is unnecessary, however you can never be too safe.

You did jack up the sub frame for extra support also in your video.


Great video!

[Cockatoo]

Wait till you pair it with the trans insert and diff outrigger bushings! YUM!