How to fix wheel Hop

[Mikepage]

Thank you for the clarification Doug.

It's impossible to completely fix the wheel hop with a Torsen, if i understand correctly, but you can improve it a lot if you go more stiffer.

[DougW]

It's impossible to fix wheel hop with or without a Torsen but making things stiffer will make it's frequency faster so you are less likely to stay in the window long enough to do damage. Soft mounts and open diffs with soft shock/ spring valving all go to slow everything down this stores more energy and releases it over a longer time making it more noticeable to the butt dyno. Keeping the rear wheels driving instead of spinning helps keep the tires from running up and down the chatter zone as it loses energy to smoke.
DougW

[Mikepage]

I know it's an old thread but I just found this link and I wanted to share with everyone : http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20061012a/

[be6sti]

I've gotten wheel hop violently at the strip, my shifter moves like crazy and the whole car bounces around, glad and sad to see im not the only one.

[Koa]

Originally Posted by be6sti

I've gotten wheel hop violently at the strip, my shifter moves like crazy and the whole car bounces around, glad and sad to see im not the only one.

[Knshro13]

Everytime i do an aggressive launch, i get crazy wheel hop. So crazy that is sounds like people are throwing and smashing boulders on my car.

I have aluminum subframe collars, rear diff brace, aluminum transmission mount collar, and a hard-as-fuck-to-drive twin plate clutch. Wheel hop is a serious issue.


My next move is to add collars on the diff case front bushings. If that doesn't fix it, ill move to toe/trailing arms.

Anyone fix this?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Knshro13

Everytime i do an aggressive launch, i get crazy wheel hop. So crazy that is sounds like people are throwing and smashing boulders on my car.

I have aluminum subframe collars, rear diff brace, aluminum transmission mount collar, and a hard-as-fuck-to-drive twin plate clutch. Wheel hop is a serious issue.


My next move is to add collars on the diff case front bushings. If that doesn't fix it, ill move to toe/trailing arms.

Anyone fix this?

Let me guess, you're running a solid disk instead of a sprung hub?

There's two basic ways to prevent wheel hop, make everything so solid it can't happen, or dampen the motion and increase the motion frequency to the point that you stay out of the range. You seem to be trying the solid approach. You'll likely have to replace every bushing in the rear, and use much stiffer shocks/springs. You might help yourself if you play with a different side wall, like a slick instead of a drag radial, or even just changing tire pressure a few pounds.

[Knshro13]

Originally Posted by Calum

Let me guess, you're running a solid disk instead of a sprung hub?

There's two basic ways to prevent wheel hop, make everything so solid it can't happen, or dampen the motion and increase the motion frequency to the point that you stay out of the range. You seem to be trying the solid approach. You'll likely have to replace every bushing in the rear, and use much stiffer shocks/springs. You might help yourself if you play with a different side wall, like a slick instead of a drag radial, or even just changing tire pressure a few pounds.

yup, solid disc. Im on the way to making everything solid. I just want to know what exactly is banging away.

But thank you for the suggestions. Ill mess with tire pressures.

[Sammakko]

Originally Posted by Knshro13

yup, solid disc. Im on the way to making everything solid. I just want to know what exactly is banging away.

But thank you for the suggestions. Ill mess with tire pressures.

your poor input shaft...

[ChrisD]

Add me to the list of people that is sick of this violent shaking in damp conditions when the wheels spin up.

I've already got the whiteline diff mount bushings, whiteline subframe bushing inserts, stiffer lower control arm outer bushing that came with the KW coilovers, superpro rear trailing arm bushings, and the whiteline transmission void bushing.

I saw in another thread someone said that rear upper control arm bushings will help a lot - has anyone tried them yet? I'm assuming they mean these: http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Mode...ategory_2/4139

Oh and also, as a few people in this thread have mentioned the diff - I'm installing a 1.5 way clutch type LSD in a couple of weeks so I'll see if that helps at all and report back.

[Mikepage]

Sorry but It's at least impossible to fix it, you can only reduce... It's independents suspensions then you just need to take care and lice with that.

[chadstyle]

I'm surprised to see more with wheel hop..

I originally posted in this thread when I had Eibach Sportlines and Eibach front/rear sways and 18" Klutch wheels on street tires.

Now, I'm running KW V3 coil overs, whiteline adjustable end links front and rear, Eibach front rear sways, ISC lower control arms, Raceseng CasCam plates up front and 2" cups in rear, 17" RPF1s with 255/40/17 R-S3 tires. In more than 3 years of driving this car hard and even launching using Ecutek launch control, never once have I experienced wheel hop.

Those that have experienced it... Did you tighten/adjust your sway bars with the suspension preloaded? I always do my adjustments on an alignment rack so I can access everything while the suspension is loaded. If you are doing on jack stands or while the wheels are hanging, your sway bars may be causing the wheel hop. I remember a thread a few years back where someone was able to fix the wheel hop by preloading the suspension prior to tightening down the sways.

Hope this helps...


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[EsoBOFH]

Adding my experience here.

I have owned a 2013 FR-S, and now own a 2016 FR-S.

The 2013, never, ever wheel hopped.

The 2016, ALWAYS wheel hops when i peel-out or leave a stop light aggressively.

I had a Toyota Corolla and a BMW 3 series between these two cars, but I presume my driving style hasn't changed so much between the two that the difference between the 2013 and the 2016 is caused by something i'm doing.

I know there are differences in the suspension between these years, so whatever they have done has really changed things up in this regard. (wild guess)

I'm not one to throw money and parts at something, but I'd really like to get this solved. It's dangerous, and worse, embarrassing as hell when you are trying to exit with style

[chadstyle]

Originally Posted by EsoBOFH

Adding my experience here.

I have owned a 2013 FR-S, and now own a 2016 FR-S.

The 2013, never, ever wheel hopped.

The 2016, ALWAYS wheel hops when i peel-out or leave a stop light aggressively.

I had a Toyota Corolla and a BMW 3 series between these two cars, but I presume my driving style hasn't changed so much between the two that the difference between the 2013 and the 2016 is caused by something i'm doing.

I know there are differences in the suspension between these years, so whatever they have done has really changed things up in this regard. (wild guess)

I'm not one to throw money and parts at something, but I'd really like to get this solved. It's dangerous, and worse, embarrassing as hell when you are trying to exit with style

That's very interesting. I think they only changed spring rates, and slightly at that, between the model years.

My BRZ, which has never had a wheel hop issue, is a 2013.