Official FT86Club 3D printing thread!

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

I would never put glue on the textured plate, and I've printed PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA on it with great success. According to Bambu they recommend glue for TPU, PC, and PA.

I've not done a lot of 3d printing, but about the only thing I've had real success with is a glass plate. My son has printed dozens of D&D figures on a glass plate and never had an issue.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

I've not done a lot of 3d printing, but about the only thing I've had real success with is a glass plate. My son has printed dozens of D&D figures on a glass plate and never had an issue.

I've only used glue on a bambu cool plate and I've had nonstop success. It really is 3d printing on easy mode. Only difficult thing I've had to deal with was large flat parts lifting a bit but turning up the bed temps a few degrees fixed that pretty easily. It's an incredibly well tuned machine for sure.

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

I've not done a lot of 3d printing, but about the only thing I've had real success with is a glass plate. My son has printed dozens of D&D figures on a glass plate and never had an issue.

It depends on the design of the printer. If it was built to use a glass plate that's where the bulk of success is going to be. Something like a Prusa or a Bambu - I don't even know how you'd put a glass plate on them - they're built for a heated build plate with a metal core that will suck tight to the magnets and has some sort of coating to give it proper adhesion and release.

Wally86 is right - the Bambu is full-on Easy Mode. The only drawback to that printer (aside from initial cost) is the "walled garden" ecosystem. It's built with their firmware, software, frikkin' cloud infrastructure, and so on in mind. I run mine in LAN-only mode because I'm professionally paranoid (and I do non-zero patent work) and it's still miles more "click and forget" than a Prusa, but it doesn't have all the features.

[DocWalt]

Doing some ASA prints and I forgot how much it sucks to deal with, bed adhesion wise. Trying a new plate because I'm tired of glue too, my current setup is glass with PEI sheet. No glue for PLA, Nylon, etc. but ASA keeps lifting even with glue and a brim.

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Doing some ASA prints and I forgot how much it sucks to deal with, bed adhesion wise. Trying a new plate because I'm tired of glue too, my current setup is glass with PEI sheet. No glue for PLA, Nylon, etc. but ASA keeps lifting even with glue and a brim.

Get a Wham Bam PEI build plate. Period.

There's also G10 plates for some printers at lightyeardirect that look like winners - I'll be getting one shortly but I haven't tested yet so I can't vouch for it.

I run the textured plate from Bambu with ASA a lot, it adheres well and then once cool the parts are literally just sitting on it, not even a little bit adhered. The Wham Bam is pretty much the same, but it's smooth so the parts are VERY slightly more likely to have a hint of "stick" after cooling.

Those two plates are my go-to for 98% of the printing I do. Everything sticks, everything releases. I'm getting the G10 because it specifically says "EVERYTHING" works without glue, and I'm doing PC soon which requires glue on both the textured and Wham Bam plates.

Wham Bam makes plates for just about every machine out there, looks like lightyeardirect has a smaller compatibility list. But in any case it should be possible to find a build plate that will do what you want, reliably, and without messy adhesion/release agents.

[DocWalt]

Using a "Hictop" brand PEI build plate now per the suggestion of a friend with an Ender also printing ASA. Working awesome so far, I did order a Wham Bam PEI plate to try too.

[2.2Lude]

Originally Posted by tehShirt

I attached a zip with the STL files for the Pioneer mic adapter I made. I have printed two of these now, one for myself and one for @spike021 on a luzbot mini in PLA. I was only able to test it with the mic style pictured. If you have the dimensions for other types I can modify my files for you.

There are three files, one male side, and two female sides. If your mic still has the ball on it, you can use the "with hole" option to retain the ball. If you have castrated the microphone, use the other side.

Hey guys! Would anyone be able to print me one of these? tehShirt hasn't been on the board since last year. Looking for the "with hole" option.

[ThatYeti]

No experience with 3D printing but curious if anyone's looked into making functional/vented fender garnishes for the first gen cars?

[orange crush]

The trunk pull up thread is nice, but it doesn't work for me for two reasons:

1: You need to be able to get a wrench in the back to install it. Can't do that if you have a trunk lid liner

2: It tends to twist because it's a straight bar anchored only in the middle.

I made my own version: Installs with an M4 socket head bolt and M4 expansion well nut.

Because the universe is kind some times, an 8-32 socket bolt and an M4 socket bolt have dimensions within a percent or two of each other, and a 5/16th 8-32 well nut and an 8mm M4 well nut are again almost identical in size, down to the flange size, so I sized it for both.

The one on the car is printed with orange silk PLA, which is OK. First time using it.



STL available if anybody cares.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by ThatYeti

No experience with 3D printing but curious if anyone's looked into making functional/vented fender garnishes for the first gen cars?

What would you suggest?

[ThatYeti]

Originally Posted by Wally86

What would you suggest?

Ideally something that mirrors the design of the one for the BRZ but leaves the 'vents' open as functional vents and maybe includes a 'snorkel' of sorts as the panel it opens up to isn't a direct shot into the engine bay

Again this is all from a vantage point of knowing nothing about 3d printing, so whether what i'm asking is feasible in any way i've no idea but thanks in advance

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by ThatYeti

Ideally something that mirrors the design of the one for the BRZ but leaves the 'vents' open as functional vents and maybe includes a 'snorkel' of sorts as the panel it opens up to isn't a direct shot into the engine bay

Again this is all from a vantage point of knowing nothing about 3d printing, so whether what i'm asking is feasible in any way i've no idea but thanks in advance

It's like everything else that doesn't exist... you just have to make it.

That said, I remember a thread for making the vents functional also required cutting in the engine bay behind the fender (on the car side) also. it'd be an interesting project but it'd have to be pretty polished from an internal piece that mates with the new functional vented garnish to a template on where to cut on the fender and in the engine bay.

[ThatYeti]

Originally Posted by Wally86

It's like everything else that doesn't exist... you just have to make it.

That said, I remember a thread for making the vents functional also required cutting in the engine bay behind the fender (on the car side) also. it'd be an interesting project but it'd have to be pretty polished from an internal piece that mates with the new functional vented garnish to a template on where to cut on the fender and in the engine bay.

Fair enough and ya I was imagining something that wouldn't require you to have to cut into the car, just remove the existing garnish and stick in a new piece that would be functional. No idea if that's possible but it's what I had in my head.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by ThatYeti

Fair enough and ya I was imagining something that wouldn't require you to have to cut into the car, just remove the existing garnish and stick in a new piece that would be functional. No idea if that's possible but it's what I had in my head.

Pull off your garnish and you'll see there's quite a bit of metal behind it and getting it to vent would be more work than I think you're thinking. There are a couple of threads showing how much metal has to be removed.

If you're looking for pure cooling, some naca ducts on the hood might do better to get cool air into the engine bay or pull hot air out. I know marsh has done this with the vents being used to push cooler air into the bay but they could be reversed to do the opposite and pull hot air out.