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11-26-2015, 02:23 PM | #1 |
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Brake Upgrade, Advice needed!
Dears,
I want to upgrade my brakes, my car is stock but where I reside now the tarmac is quite smooth (in a bad way) and all cars struggle when braking. taking also into account the driving culture is like hooligan party and destruction derby every day... in short having better brakes is kinda mandatory for me. I was thinking of upgrading the brakes, then I saw the insanely expensive asking price of brembo kits (6 pots F / 4 pots R) are around 5K-6K USD I decided to upgrade the rotors and the pads as stage one. 1- Rotors: (DBA Slotted T3 Rotors). 2- Pads: I want something better than stock, but nothing screaming and squeaky. Question: with the (Rotors/Pads) path really make a tangible difference? PS: I'll swap the wheels and tires too with 18"x8.5 and 245 summer sticky tires. Thanks in advance for your contributions and advice. BR, UNREAL |
11-26-2015, 02:26 PM | #2 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to go_a_way1 For This Useful Post: | UNREAL (11-27-2015) |
11-26-2015, 02:37 PM | #3 |
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Op you might want to also look at wildwood big brake kit(front). They are quite reliable and much less expensive than Brembo's. They come in a 4 and 6 piston versions for about 1/3 to half the price
for reference: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...y_Code=Wilwood |
The Following User Says Thank You to fumanchu1 For This Useful Post: | UNREAL (11-27-2015) |
11-26-2015, 03:00 PM | #4 |
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I'd advise to get fronts-only APR sprint kit, if you are more after function, not looks.
Not screaming, not squeeking .. it's more what compound type of pads are used, not so much what brake kits. |
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11-26-2015, 03:19 PM | #5 |
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if you want better brakes for the street, just pads and fluid will be fine. there is no need to change out the rotors unless you want to. same with stainless steel lines. however, I think the most difference will be changing to summer tires. if you keep the same tires as you had before, even with better brakes your tires will still struggle to find grip on the road the same as before.
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to ryoma For This Useful Post: | Draco-REX (11-27-2015), go_a_way1 (11-26-2015), Shark_Bait88 (11-30-2015), strat61caster (11-26-2015), Teseo (11-26-2015), Tristor (04-28-2018), UNREAL (11-27-2015) |
11-26-2015, 04:57 PM | #6 | |
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If you can engage ABS, "better" brakes aren't going to stop you faster, you need more grip.
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11-26-2015, 05:41 PM | #7 | ||||
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forgive my ignorance what is an MC brake? Quote:
Willwood seems more affordable but still costs +3K USD for all 4 wheels /without installation. I'll consider this kit after I FI my 86 Quote:
And I know the sound is related to the pads only,check my OP again, you'll find it mentioned in the point about pads options., since we are discussing pads, Could you please recommend any specific brand/material that provides better than OEM performance? Appreciating your feedback Quote:
1- Extreme/Max summer tires 2- Pads (any recommendations?) 3- fluid (Any Recommendations?) Question: 1- are our OEM rotors big/good enough for spirited street use? as for SS lines? I saw some YouTube videos stating they have no real world benefits, only theoretical. Tanks to all of you for replying, and I'll be glad to see more opinions on this matter. |
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11-26-2015, 05:46 PM | #8 | |
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Exactly my problem, ABS engagement is frequent, even when the situation doesn't require it. you are also advising me to go the following route: 1- Extreme/Max summer tires 2- Pads (any recommendations?) 3- fluid (Any Recommendations?) Many thanks for your advice |
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11-26-2015, 05:50 PM | #9 | |
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But anyways when you apply the brakes the momentum and weight of the car shift forward. This means there is a much greater force/traction put on the front tires during medium/hard braking. Meaning the front tires and brakes actually do a whole lot more work in stopping your car than the rear do. (all the weight is in the front and the momentum applies even more pressure to the front when braking so it is only logical that the load is far superior on the front brakes and they therefore benefit the most from bigger/better brakes). Also from a physics standpoint, a stronger braking force in the front should (on paper) induce a bit of oversteer (in certain situations) and I assume that if you bought this car then you must love oversteer like I do My post may not be 100% accurate as my (college level) physics studies are very far away and my mechanical knowledge/know-how is average/decent at best. |
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11-26-2015, 05:55 PM | #10 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to go_a_way1 For This Useful Post: | UNREAL (11-27-2015) |
11-26-2015, 05:58 PM | #11 | |
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for street driving and spirited use, I would say the Winmax W2 or W3 are good solutions. I am recommending Winmax since they are the only aftermarket pad I have used so far, but other people might recommend a different brand. I don't have any experience with other brands so I cannot recommend any aside from Winmax. as for fluid, either RBF600 or the RT700 are good. I have used RBF600 on my previous car, but not my BRZ, but to be honest, I cannot see any noticeable difference between the two. the RT700 has a higher boiling point than the RBF600 so on paper it is better, but in the real world (and especially on the street), I cannot find a difference.
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11-26-2015, 06:01 PM | #12 |
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Unreal: for mostly street i'd probably would go for Ferrordo DS2500 pads
Fumanchu1: rears are as large because they need to fit around parking brake, not because they need that size for effective braking. |
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11-27-2015, 02:27 AM | #13 |
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For DD Winmax W2 will be an upgrade without the squel of a W3 or comparable pad with a slight increase over oem. Motul RBF600 should be sufficient for fluid. OEM rotors are totally fine for spirited driving. SS lines help with feel slightly but not improve stopping power or anything.
I like Project Mu also so maybe their Bforce pads but I have no experiance and havent seen any reviews on them
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Last edited by finch1750; 11-27-2015 at 08:25 PM. |
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11-27-2015, 09:20 AM | #14 |
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For pads on pure street car, I'd go with a Carbotech AX6, Winmax W2, Project mU HC800+ or Ferodo DS2500. They're all better than stock, but not noisy like a full track pad.
Fluid, anything is better than stock really. Castrol SRF is really nice, but it's hugely overkill for a street car and it's really expensive ($90 cdn/liter compared to like $30 cdn/liter for other fluids). If you're not boiling lower temp fluid, then you don't *need* something super high temp like SRF.
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