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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 07-15-2014, 10:39 PM   #29
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Weird, I never had any drone at all.. I wonder what's different. I did install the whole header back at once tho.
Going full header back definetly is the difference I'm only cat back... Header back may be the right choice if the op wants to avoid drone.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:23 AM   #30
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Thats a good price, do you remember where you got it from?
It was a fantastic price and they got it to me quickly. I got it from @Aristocrat Autosport. Send them a PM and tell them I sent them your way.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:57 AM   #31
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Going full header back definetly is the difference I'm only cat back... Header back may be the right choice if the op wants to avoid drone.

Idk about that. From what I've read so far the more you replace the greater the chance of drone especially in the header area if you go uncatted. It will be ridiculously loud.
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:56 PM   #32
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Friday bump. Looking for some more opinions.
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“This isn’t a supercar, it’s a sports car. It sacrifices rear seats yes but it just feels alive. Pure, direct, immediate. The other two are going to get all the admiring looks yes, that’s my point. I’m not driving around in this for other people’s benefit. I’m driving around in this BECAUSE I LOVE DRIVING IT. END!”
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Old 08-03-2014, 04:55 AM   #33
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Just a heads up if you actually want to feel something in terms of power I would go for the OFT tune. I did a similar path; perrin catback then oft. Honestly did the catback because I hated the tips and tbh you don't feel any huge difference with catback.

The OFT is amazing though and gives you more functionality than you could think of for a tablet/500$
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:52 AM   #34
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:47 AM   #35
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I need to add some spunk to my BRZ. This car is my DD and I'm only looking for something in the $500-600 range or less.

I'm leaning towards an exhaust component. I just feel like the car has no personality and I don't think anything cosmetically will provide that.

However I've got a dilemma, my old Supra had an exhaust and my fiancé as well as myself absolutely hated it. It was loud, obnoxious, and droned like no other right in the 2k-4k rpm range. So she DOES not want me to do it again. I can't decide if a Catted front pipe will give me what I am looking for or if I should go with an axle back. Axle back will be much easier to install than a full CBE and FP but FP is 1/2 the cost and I can buy the Q300 for as hair under $600.

Please help me.
Where are you getting Q300 for under $600

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Old 08-04-2014, 03:16 PM   #36
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Where are you getting Q300 for under $600

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There's a vendor selling for $589 advertised on here.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:19 PM   #37
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I wouldn't listen to much of the advice from "Ubersuber" (aka Suberman) at all, if you want reliable information on suspension setup check the thread by CSG and RCE.

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Seriously, I'd forget engine mods short of forced induction.

If I had $500.00 to spend I'd buy Bilsteins and fit them myself (in reality I have enough to pay someone much more skilled than I to fit them).

I bought new tires first. Knowing what I now know (that Subaru is fitting Sachs dampers to the 2015 cars) and having experienced the transformation my BRZ experienced by fitting Bilstein HD (B6) dampers and struts that's the only mod I would have done. I seriously think I could have tolerated the stock tires longer had I fitted the Bilsteins first.
You're seriously out to lunch if you think that bilstein shocks/struts would have changed the handling balance so much that the stock tires would be comparable to better tires. Are the bilsteins better than stock, yes, but are they so much better than stock that it would've made it substantially more grippy on the stock tires, not a chance.

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Oh, yes, and as the rear Bilsteins go in cut one half inch out of the rear bump stops, or cut a bit off the soft end if you don't want to mess around with gluing bits of bump stop back together. A bit more damper travel before the car hits the bump stop would be desirable unless you want to drift regularly.
Do not cut the bump stops with stock springs, they're designed as an integral part of the spring rate package and cutting them on stock springs will result in you messing up the handling.

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Get the alignment within spec even if you have to fit camber bolts. My rear axle is now set at 1.9 degrees negative each side with the help of a pair of Subaru factory camber bolts. The front probably won't need camber adjustment but if it does you can get camber bolts for the bottom of the strut to assist.
Adding more camber to the rear is the last thing these cars need. You need to add front camber first. The rear suspension gains a lot more camber as it is compressed compared to the front. I also wouldn't run bolts to adjust camber in the rear. Offset bushings, adjustable upper control arms or adjustable lower control arms are the way to go for rear camber adjustment.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:04 PM   #38
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There's a vendor selling for $589 advertised on here.
Link?

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Old 08-04-2014, 08:07 PM   #39
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Link?

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A simple search revealed:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69875
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“This isn’t a supercar, it’s a sports car. It sacrifices rear seats yes but it just feels alive. Pure, direct, immediate. The other two are going to get all the admiring looks yes, that’s my point. I’m not driving around in this for other people’s benefit. I’m driving around in this BECAUSE I LOVE DRIVING IT. END!”
-Richard Hammond, Top Gear, USA Supercar Road Trip, 2011 Porsche GT3 RS.
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