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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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06-27-2010, 10:10 AM | #1 |
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Brakes, track set up?
Was curious if anybody would change out the rotors, pads, brake lines, caliper, and the entire brakes basically?
I heard from somewhere that for the given chassis weight, stock brakes is sufficient for "stopping power", but brake pads and disc will fade rather quickly..obviously disc won't go out that quickly. I'm speaking in terms of a track day car where this car would be taken to multiple events through out the year. How would you modify the brakes? |
06-27-2010, 11:30 AM | #2 |
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Simple. If they come w 4/2 calipers I'll keep the calipers & change the rest.
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06-27-2010, 12:13 PM | #3 |
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Well ... big brake systems etc. can be pretty expensive, and often aren't purchased for verry legtimate reasons. If not carefully put together (I mean engineering not assembly), a system will only hurt brake balance or braking power.
For instance, my '08 WRX has enough braking force - the tires are the limiting factor on an emergency stop - but cannot sustain even a spirited run down a back road. They overheat in as few as 5 corners. I don't see myself replacing major brake hardware (the rotors and 2 pot front / 1 pot rear calipers) but do see myself buying high-temp brake pads and fluid, and maybe doing some ducting to cool off the brakes before I go to a trackday (which will probably happen in the fall). Maybe also braided (metal) lines to replace the OEM rubber. If I find a bucket of cash and those mods still don't help fade... maybe I'll investigate bigger rotors / more efficient calipers, but I feel it often adds expense and complication when some intelligent changes to the OEM brakes will solve the problem better. |
06-27-2010, 07:40 PM | #4 |
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^^^ basically exactly what bigbcraig said.
pads, fluid, and maybe ss braided hoses. i'll run stock rotors and calipers.
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06-27-2010, 08:13 PM | #5 |
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If you guys are successful in changing the brake rotor and disc, make DIY threat. ... I would like to do it on my own. Honestly, I can only change brake pad.
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06-27-2010, 08:20 PM | #6 |
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Nothing hard. You can look at any car forum and there's already DIY. It's pretty much same w every car (almost every car).
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06-27-2010, 08:20 PM | #7 |
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psst... the rotor IS the disk
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06-28-2010, 02:46 AM | #8 |
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Going to something like a stock sized rotor with an aluminum center hat (like a Disc Brake Australia 5000 series) would be a good mod. Reduce unsprung and rotating mass.
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06-28-2010, 04:03 PM | #9 |
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I can't really speak for cars brakes but I'm assuming that same concept applies from bikes. During track days with my older bikes, I would huge brake fade with the oem rubber brake lines. Steel braided lines with DOT5.1 was an easy upgrade that helped alot.
Most folks upgrade their brakes in segments; lines, pads, fluid initially then go with bigger rotors, calipers as they progress. On my Ducati, it came equipped with Brembo Monoblocks and 330mm rotors and steel braided lines. It's a very nice setup with tons of bite!
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06-29-2010, 05:38 PM | #10 |
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stainless brake lines, good fluid, and good pads.
That's all. That's all that 90% of people need too.
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06-29-2010, 08:16 PM | #11 |
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depending on OEM pad feel, i might change to Porterfield R4-S pads, definitely Motul RBF600 fluid (or maybe the 660...). if they OEM pads feel okay and don't fade too much, i might just leave them until they wear out. 2 piece floating rotors with aluminum hats would be cool, though.
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2006 Tacoma 4x4 TRD Off Road - All-Pro front bumper, Old Man Emu shocks, Old Man Emu HD front coils, All-Pro leafs 1990 240SX Coupe - sold 2008 Civic Si Sedan |
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