Performance Alignment impact on DD

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by solidONE

There are guys claiming they're getting even tire wear in the front with more than -3* camber. Not sure how they are doing this, or if they're measuring the center tread depth.

I know I will get even wear when I run -2.5 or w/e I end up running next spring as on stock alignments I replace my tires every 20k due to wear hahaha!

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by go_a_way1

I know I will get even wear when I run -2.5 or w/e I end up running next spring as on stock alignments I replace my tires every 20k due to wear hahaha!

You could have flipped the tires after a couple of events or some mileage to try to maximize your tire life. Though, unless you granny your car everywhere, stock alignment (-0~-0.5* front camber) is not very easy on the outside edge of the front tires. -2.0~2.5 front is good compromise, I think.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by solidONE

You could have flipped the tires after a couple of events or some mileage to try to maximize your tire life. Though, unless you granny your car everywhere, stock alignment (-0~-0.5* front camber) is not very easy on the outside edge of the front tires. -2.0~2.5 front is good compromise, I think.

Yeah I drive the piss outa my car and most tires are 260 or less treadwear haha! It is my own doing but to me its more about the smiles then the $$$

I plan on running -2.5 front and -1.5 rear when I install my coils and LCA's this spring with 0 toe all around. You think thats a good starting point?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by go_a_way1

Yeah I drive the piss outa my car and most tires are 260 or less treadwear haha! It is my own doing but to me its more about the smiles then the $$$

I plan on running -2.5 front and -1.5 rear when I install my coils and LCA's this spring with 0 toe all around. You think thats a good starting point?

Yes. I'd maybe run a tiny more more camber in the rear, specially with 0 toe, but that's my preference. Rotate the wheels often and I'd think you'd get some pretty good mileage out of the tires.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

How is the ride on the b14?

I only have a few dozen miles on them, initially it seems to soak up the little road imperfections better than OEM but it seems to bounce on big displacements like speed bumps. I'll be autocrossing it next weekend and able to put some real miles on it over the next three weeks which is why I haven't posted anything about it. Seems like a great quality bang for your buck lowering (I winged the collar heights and I ended up 1" lower than stock, might be able to get some height), comfort is very similar to OEM and the stiffer springs are apparent but not harsh even with the light driving I've done.

Originally Posted by solidONE

There are guys claiming they're getting even tire wear in the front with more than -3* camber. Not sure how they are doing this, or if they're measuring the center tread depth.

I think that drive cycle is extremely important, I drove a few hundred miles on the freeway with -3 degrees and feel like it took a noticeable amount off the inner shoulder, but they wear evenly on track at that alignment. I've been adjusting camber before and after events, seems to have almost no effect on toe. Someone who's car sees 90% hard driving will wear pretty well with -3 degrees, 90% DD will roast those tires compared to a more conservative alignment.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by churchx

djdnz: it's worth checking/doing alignment at least once even on completely stock car anyway. Simply because factory (and thus many dealership's) allowances are too broad, and alignment of completely new stock car can have alignment out of whack vs what is expected from performance car and still be within "factory" specs. You may be in luck and have it little out of shape .. but you can be aswell not as lucky.

Originally Posted by djdnz

Why do you want an alignment? The factory specs are pretty good - if you get aftermarket suspension and need an alignment then get one then

See above... the factory ranges are pretty huge, just getting the car to the middle of the range is a good start, for anyone regardless of how they're using the car.

To the OP, the biggest change you'll notice is that with less rear toe the car will be slightly less stable in a straight line. It's not going to want to spin, but it will follow contours of the road a bit more. Not scary, just something to be aware of.

[2much]

Originally Posted by 8R6

if youre that close to WestEnd, then it doesnt hurt to just stop by and talk to darrin or chris. theyre both smart as hell and super nice. let them know what your plans are, and even if you dont know, they can help provide advice and direction for you to know and then decide what your plans would be.

to start off, you can get the camber bolts for the front and have westend align it for you to best suit your driving style/needs. you wont get a lot of adjustability with just that, but they can definitely still tidy the alignment up and recommend settings that will meet your needs.

there are a ton of places that have fanbois and hype, but westend is one of the VERY FEW places that honestly lives up to the hype and even beyond. and they dont rip you off.

+1 west end. if you go for a chat, they will earn your business

[LenA]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll see what West End recommends. I'm an engineer, so even if I don't go with camber bolts etc, I'd like to get a baseline and see where things are relative to the broad factory ranges and go from there. Most of my driving is DD, so I really only want to do mods that improve DD with some occasional HPDE in near future

Len

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

I think that drive cycle is extremely important, I drove a few hundred miles on the freeway with -3 degrees and feel like it took a noticeable amount off the inner shoulder, but they wear evenly on track at that alignment. I've been adjusting camber before and after events, seems to have almost no effect on toe. Someone who's car sees 90% hard driving will wear pretty well with -3 degrees, 90% DD will roast those tires compared to a more conservative alignment.

We were talking about DD setups that sees the track. I suppose the amount of track miles vary, but I'd think most "DD" as in Daily drivers would see many highway miles.

[EAGLE5]

I'd just zero the toe and get crash bolts for the front. Excellent compromise. Cheap too. Don't overthink it. Also, a local speedshop may or may not know the platform well. Roger Krause Racing near my home does tons of racing and suspension work. They literally said to go online and find out what works then come to them to get it done.

[swarb]

@LenA good deal. Ideally for this car, you want more camber in the front than the rear. About .5 or so. Good luck.

[Jonathan Le]

Hey guys just recently got an alignment and was curious about something.
my front camber left is 1.5 and the right is 1.8 does should i be concern about .3 difference?

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Le

Hey guys just recently got an alignment and was curious about something.
my front camber left is 1.5 and the right is 1.8 does should i be concern about .3 difference?

I wouldn't worry about it, you'd never notice.

[guybo]

Originally Posted by LenA

I have read a lot of posts on alignment and mods. I am curious what the real world impacts are for a daily driver. My 2015 BRZ has stock wheels/tires and suspension. I am thinking of Whiteline camber bolts and getting alignment with negative front camber, 0 toe front and slight rear toein. Will this alignment be noticable on street, or will it really only help when pushing car really hard? Will it be worse on highway?

I'm close to West End alignment, so would probably go to them for thrle alignment

Thanks

Len

I haven't tried those settings, but that's close to what I set my last car to. The car will seek out the camber of the road and want to wander on the highway. There will be more tire wear up front. But the car will feel so much better in every corner.