Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[DarkSunrise]

OK more rear camber it is. Thanks everyone!

[Nickosport]

Originally Posted by Panamaniac

Quick question!

What Transmission Oil do you guys recommend for a track only car?

We are on Mobil 1 75w90, but had problems with getting 4th in. We were thinking Motul Gear 300, but want a better opinion on people who have tracked the car more than us.

Mobil 1 gear oil is GL5. Although its fantastic, and I use it in my race cars, It has a lot of phosphorus and sulfur additives which makes it corrosive to yellow metals, like our sychros. It also has a lower coefficient of friction which can exacerbate synchro issues.

I'd go ahead and switch to Motul, but there is a chance the synchros have been corroded/pitted from the Mobil. For the future, use a GL3 or GL4 gear oil. GL3 is going to be a bit more difficult to find as it was superseded by GL4 in 1995. API doesn't certify GL3 gear oil anymore, the testing equipment no longer exists, so any oil you see with a GL3 and API marking is self certified and was made to a standard that was abandoned 20+ years ago. I'd stick with Motul or Pentosin or Amsoil. You are likely to have a good experience with any of those.

[CSG Mike]

I want to say you may have just picked up clag at the track...

[dp1]

Originally Posted by Panamaniac

Quick question!

What Transmission Oil do you guys recommend for a track only car?

We are on Mobil 1 75w90, but had problems with getting 4th in. We were thinking Motul Gear 300, but want a better opinion on people who have tracked the car more than us.

3rd track season on Motul Gear 300, works great for me, changed every 4-8 track days. Rarely drive on the street, car is stored during NE winters.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Ok thanks I'm going to try peeling it off tomorrow. Hopefully that's all it is.

Why bother, that's nothing - you can pick up much more than that when tires are hot/sticky and you're running off line or coming into the pits where there are a lot of rubber chunks laying around. They should be gone pretty quickly from driving on street or track.

[DocWalt]

Your paddock area can be large gravel (like ballast on a railroad) and you can do this! My buddy's car on R888s at Putnam did this, but my RE-71Rs picked up rocks too. Every time you parked and went back out for a session you had to remember that you were literally dumping big rocks off of the car and it's not suddenly broken, haha.

[1Cor10:23]

Does anyone know approximately how much of a toe change a 1/4 turn of the front tie rods will give? Not trying to do a diy alignment, just curious - alignment shop squared my car but steering was off centered, they compensated after I brought back by doing equal turns 1/4 on each side without putting sensors back on. Shop owner assured that it'll be accurate, just curious how much so...

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[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by dp1

Why bother, that's nothing - you can pick up much more than that when tires are hot/sticky and you're running off line or coming into the pits where there are a lot of rubber chunks laying around. They should be gone pretty quickly from driving on street or track.

I couldn't tell if it was my own rubber wearing strangely (toe issue possibly) or OPR. I've pretty much concluded the latter, but the thing that threw me is how evenly-coated the rubber is over my tire. It literally looks like another layer of rubber, except where it ends/crumbles towards the inside of the tire. When I picked at it, it started pulling off the top layer of rubber off the tire.

The rubber I'm used to picking up comes in clumps like the lighter grey patch at the top of this picture:



Or stones/rocks from the paddock like in Doc's picture. Or the black rubber strings that stick to my wheels. I've never seen (or perhaps never noticed) such an even distribution of OPR over my tire.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

Does anyone know approximately how much of a toe change a 1/4 turn of the front tie rods will give? Not trying to do a diy alignment, just curious - alignment shop squared my car but steering was off centered, they compensated after I brought back by doing equal turns 1/4 on each side without putting sensors back on. Shop owner assured that it'll be accurate, just curious how much so...

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Depends on the tie rod; do you know the thread pitch on yours?

[1Cor10:23]

@CSG Mike oem front tie rods, not sure? Just want to make sure it's not way off, they way that they corrected it is logical but I want to get a sense for the margin of error by eyeing it and doing equal turn on each side with a white chalk marking to mark the original setting. If it's within 0.02-3 then prob not a big deal. But if 1/4 turn is like 0.1+ in toe, then I might be paranoid Haha.

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[DocWalt]

If they turned it equally on both sides, don't worry about it.

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

If they turned it equally on both sides, don't worry about it.

Thanks Any idea how sensitive toe is on stock tie rod? Like...ballpark what can you expect the result of 1/4 turn to be in toe degrees?

[kch]

Brake pads: I'm used to tracking on stock calipers with Cobalt Friction XR2s. I just purchased the AP sprint kit, and it came with a set of both Fedoro DS2500 and Carbotech XP10. I also purchased some 1521s for daily driving.

Several questions:
1) Should I even bother with the DS2500s? It seems they're too noisy for DD and not enough for track use.
2) Is there any problem with using Carbotech XP10 front and Cobalt XR2 rear? The XP10 compound is a little less aggressive than the XR2s, but I'd rather not have to purchase new rear pads when I have tons of life left on the Cobalts.

Thanks!

[1Cor10:23]

@kch I'd skip the ds2500 if your track has heavy breaking zones - I got uneven deposits and crazy rotor vibrations. Essex recommended that they only be used for autox or very light tracking. I guess it also depends on what tires you're running.

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