best oil cooler for 2017 airbox?

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

Attachment 181153



Attachment 181154


temp after 1 min


Attachment 181155


temp after 30mins daily drive


let me know any data i should keep my on eye on it

Nice

Are you doing a track day before installing the cooler?

Checking the temps after, say 5 hot laps pre and post install should give some real good data to work with

Same for posting post install DD temps to ensure your oil is in fact warm.

Data quality assessment is fun, plus it lets you see if your money was spent wisely

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

Nice

Are you doing a track day before installing the cooler?

Checking the temps after, say 5 hot laps pre and post install should give some real good data to work with

Same for posting post install DD temps to ensure your oil is in fact warm.

Data quality assessment is fun, plus it lets you see if your money was spent wisely

yep the closest track day is end of this month, and i should got my oil cooler around mid of next month if they done it normally

and i got the a track day on mid of next month. hopefully get it installed before that.
any other data i should keep the eye on?
i got oil temp coolant temp engine temp intake air temp

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

yep the closest track day is end of this month, and i should got my oil cooler around mid of next month if they done it normally

and i got the a track day on mid of next month. hopefully get it installed before that.
any other data i should keep the eye on?
i got oil temp coolant temp engine temp intake air temp

That should be fine

People talk about oil pressure, and whilst it's good to know what your oil pressure is, as a safety feature, a idiot light works better.

Longacre do one that you can adjust to 50 psi, I've used them before without issue, still, if that light comes on you still might not have enough time to back off, but with it you may save your engine from totally eating itself from loss of oil pressure, maybe...

You will need to splice in a on/off switch for daily driving though, the light will pretty much be constantly on and off during street duties.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...e-1%2f8%22-NPT

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

That should be fine

People talk about oil pressure, and whilst it's good to know what your oil pressure is, as a safety feature, a idiot light works better.

Longacre do one that you can adjust to 50 psi, I've used them before without issue, still, if that light comes on you still might not have enough time to back off, but with it you may save your engine from totally eating itself from loss of oil pressure, maybe...

You will need to splice in a on/off switch for daily driving though, the light will pretty much be constantly on and off during street duties.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...e-1%2f8%22-NPT

i cant find oil pressure on the obd2, i think that all i can got from obd2.
will post up once i have the data,but just meet with my brz friend, he said the temp he got is 130c on oil and 130c on coolant. so it's looks like that i will got same. yea definitely need a oil cooler for sure.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Anyone know where to get a higher thermostat to swap into the mocal
Thermostat plate? Preferably 195-205F or 90-95C range. Temps aren’t getting hot enough with the 180F thermostat.

FYI if anyone wanted to know

Item: Mocal Thermostatic Oil Sandwich Plate Service Kit | M-OTSP1-SK92
Options: Thermostat Temperature: 92°C Thermostat
Unit price: £15.59

Quick easy direct swap. Has slightly helped increase time to get oil up to temp.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

update on oil cooler


they are really good.
only thing is the temp is a bit low with daily drive.

opens up at 80c and the oil temp will stay around 80-85 on daily
17-20c weather motul v300 0w20



but on the trackday, 20c weather.

the oil temp stay 105c :3 with motul v300 0w20

[86zn6]

Proper Oil Viscosity Is Crucial. You will notice in this chart below, 10w30 viscosity at 120c/250f is about the same as 5w20 at 100c/210f. Therefore when you use oil at 5w30, you can have the oil temp slightly higher at 120c in order to maintain the same viscosity as 0w20 at 100c.

Ref: https://www.elephantracing.com/tech-...d-engine-life/

Oil also needs to be over 100c in order to evaporate moisture mixed in the oil.

[Semiihcircle]

Originally Posted by 86zn6

Proper Oil Viscosity Is Crucial. You will notice in this chart below, 10w30 viscosity at 120c/250f is about the same as 5w20 at 100c/210f. Therefore when you use oil at 5w30, you can have the oil temp slightly higher at 120c in order to maintain the same viscosity as 0w20 at 100c.

Ref: https://www.elephantracing.com/tech-...d-engine-life/

Oil also needs to be over 100c in order to evaporate moisture mixed in the oil.

It does have to be over a 100c it can lower while not preferred, it will just evaporate slower.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[alphasaur]

Running a MAP oil cooler and it was seriously difficult to install on my 17' 86. I had to reverse one of the lines and even now it's still super close to the airbox.

Kind of annoying since it says 17' compat on their site.

[86zn6]

some good info here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...light=forester

Engine oil needs to reach *at least* 100 degrees C (212 degrees F) to burn off condensation (water) build up within the engine *which is perfectly normal and happens in every single engine*. If oil does not reach this temperature, the oil is unable to do its job to the best of its abilities and increased engine wear will result. It is a wise assumption to believe oil temperature sampling is anywhere between 85-95% of the hottest points in the engine, which means engine oil needs to be 90-100 degrees Celsius minimum to burn off condensation.

[churchx]

86zn6: 100C requirement is myth. That's boiling temp of water, but water evaporates (and proportionally to temps rises rate of evaporating) way sooner then that, so that's not so much to care for. Though there is other reason why engine worth getting to working temps - relatively tight tolerances for modern engines for cylinders/pistons, thermal expansion, good compression/less blowby at right temps (matters more for turbo engines, especially if forged pistons) .. but as it's also not too wise every time to waste fuel heating up engine for 5-10min, for modern cars/engines one should just drive away right after starting engine, simply not flooring/pushing it until it's at right temps (also extra load vs idle engine running will also heat it up much sooner). One might argue that at cold start also oil might not yet oiled up everything properly (both engine & tranny), but it happens very quickly, way quicker then engine reaches "normal" temps, so less to care, especially if light driving/"not pushing" due cold temps yet will cover that too.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

i am thinking to cover it up when daily but it just hard to getting in there, going to wait until i install the brake cooling duct

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

i am thinking to cover it up when daily but it just hard to getting in there, going to wait until i install the brake cooling duct

much easier to put in a higher temp thermostat.