OFT. Error midway of writing back original tune. Now engine wont' crank.

[tracerit]

I was on the Stage1 tune (no other exhaust mods) for a good week or so. Decided I want to go back to stock, so after driving home from errands I parked and flashed the stock tune. Near maybe about 70% of the writing process there was an error. I did nothing with the car, just sat there and let it do its thing. Worried, I tried to flash again but it would say "Key On and confirm". The thing is is that the car is on...

I went to check which tune version is in the ECU at this point, but it pulls up blank. Decided to try to start the car instead, but it won't crank. Radio and all electronics seem to work. There's just no engine crank.

Wondering if I should unplug and plug the battery?

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by tracerit

I was on the Stage1 tune (no other exhaust mods) for a good week or so. Decided I want to go back to stock, so after driving home from errands I parked and flashed the stock tune. Near maybe about 70% of the writing process there was an error. I did nothing with the car, just sat there and let it do its thing. Worried, I tried to flash again but it would say "Key On and confirm". The thing is is that the car is on...



I went to check which tune version is in the ECU at this point, but it pulls up blank. Decided to try to start the car instead, but it won't crank. Radio and all electronics seem to work. There's just no engine crank.



Wondering if I should unplug and plug the battery?

That's a scary situation. Unplugging the battery sure won't hurt. Did you check the battery voltage before flashing? Flashing with a weak battery can cause all sorts of issues. I'd disconnect/reconnect the battery, and try flashing it again with a battery charger (or another car with jumper cables) attached.

[tomm.brz]

Yes disconnecting battery should "reset" ecu and put it in a state that should allow reflashing

[tracerit]

Shortly after my panic post, I searched if any others have ran into a similar issue before and was advised to reseat the connection at the OBD port. I ended up doing that but it did nothing.

Also read reports of low voltage or voltage drops, so I plugged in my cigarette volt meter and it was at 12.30V with the ignition on. I had just driven for about an hour previously running errands, so it shouldn't be too low.

I noticed that sometimes it'll say "Key ON and confirm" right away and sometimes it'll try to communicate with the ECU then say that. So I just kept trying to flash the stock tune file multiple times. I know this isn't good because all signs seem to point to me not having a solid connection.

I would say maybe on the fourth time, it started writing! But the new thing that I noticed is on the bottom, the battery voltage showed up in yellow reading 12.29V, similar to the 12.3V on my voltmeter. I've flashed tunes back and forth over the last 4 years and never saw that battery voltage displayed before. It took its time writing and I was just hoping it wouldn't error out on me again. After a few minutes it finished and I completed the tune and the engine cranked just fine.

Crisis averted!

[steve99]

Latest oft updates to tavlet show battery volts on screen.

It important battery volts remain over 12v , this applies to any flash system.

Check your oft and obd connections by going into logg screen real time display run engine and wiggle cables and connectors, if it drops out fix the connection problems before trting to flash car again


The obd ports on some early models 2012\2013 are dodgy

More info

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99171

[pancake]

I know this is unrelated to the topic, but what was the reasoning for switching back to stock?

I'm just curious how you liked/didn't like the Stage 1 tune..

[tracerit]

Originally Posted by pancake

I know this is unrelated to the topic, but what was the reasoning for switching back to stock?

I'm just curious how you liked/didn't like the Stage 1 tune..

The tune was noticeable in helping with early torque but I wanted a quieter drive. The early torque dip rasp was cool back in the day though. Also found I prefer the lower idle RPM when moving from a start.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by tracerit

The tune was noticeable in helping with early torque but I wanted a quieter drive. The early torque dip rasp was cool back in the day though. Also found I prefer the lower idle RPM when moving from a start.

run the V4 stage 1, its got much less vvt rasp than the older v2

[Bodalenko]

So if we’re putting this dice with death down to a low battery, can a battery charger be connected and operated whilst flashing? There are differen5 types of batter6 chargers. Is one preferable to another? People need to be careful with in car cameras as well. Easy to forget about when making sure everything else is off. Mine starts recording automatically about 30sec after car is switched to IGN and operates on time lapse when car rocks or movement is sensed back or front regardless of car being powered ON or IGN. Just something to keep in mind.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Bodalenko

So if we’re putting this dice with death down to a low battery, can a battery charger be connected and operated whilst flashing? There are differen5 types of batter6 chargers. Is one preferable to another? People need to be careful with in car cameras as well. Easy to forget about when making sure everything else is off. Mine starts recording automatically about 30sec after car is switched to IGN and operates on time lapse when car rocks or movement is sensed back or front regardless of car being powered ON or IGN. Just something to keep in mind.

If your going to connect a battery charger during flashing make sure it has a stable filtered otput. many modern switch mode chargers employ pulse charging techniques and so would not be a good idea to connect that type. just replace or charge battery prior to flash.

[steve99]

Very small loads like cameras are ok. It stuff like audio power amps window motors that draw high current or are transient loads