follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine Swaps

Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-28-2016, 09:28 AM   #43
bakerr6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 raven black fr-s
Location: cincinnati, oh
Posts: 1,447
Thanks: 503
Thanked 443 Times in 305 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cf6mech View Post
Translator by AGT in Australia was a complete BUST.....believe me I tried everything to get this unit to work, spent many hours checking and double checking wiring diagrams.....and many other things,....spoke to a computer engineer in person, he opened the unit and examined it,....he said yes this could, (Ill empathize could work), but dont count on it to be seamless, he said that there will be data spikes occasionally that will cause your gauge to go off scale.....great!....but in my case none of it worked to worry about spikes.....didnt cost me anything as I was a tester except hours and hours in my garage in 100 degree heat.....so I guess I can be grateful for that....I know that there is video of this thing working,....but I'm done with it.....my next move is much more promissing....its a German based company that has a branch here in Ohio with an engineer thats a car guy......all they do is can-bus engineering on a much bigger scale

http://www.mrs-electronic.de/english/home.html This engineer was requested by Flyin Miata and has already hooked them up for the V8 ND Miata conversion, and as I type working with a buddy of mine in Seattle getting his V8 BRZ computer talking to a GM ECU,.... and without data spikes,....Stay tuned to something being available commercially soon. Hopefully I'm a few weeks away (as I have been told)from getting mine working.

Can you pm me info on the provider? I'm in ohio and may be moving from fi to an lsx swap
bakerr6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2016, 11:42 PM   #44
Spartarus
...Just add nauseum
 
Spartarus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: 2003 (AP1) S2000
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 545
Thanks: 310
Thanked 784 Times in 335 Posts
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cf6mech View Post
Translator by AGT in Australia was a complete BUST.....believe me I tried everything to get this unit to work, spent many hours checking and double checking wiring diagrams.....and many other things,....spoke to a computer engineer in person, he opened the unit and examined it,....he said yes this could, (Ill empathize could work), but dont count on it to be seamless, he said that there will be data spikes occasionally that will cause your gauge to go off scale.....great!....but in my case none of it worked to worry about spikes.....didnt cost me anything as I was a tester except hours and hours in my garage in 100 degree heat.....so I guess I can be grateful for that....I know that there is video of this thing working,....but I'm done with it.....my next move is much more promissing....its a German based company that has a branch here in Ohio with an engineer thats a car guy......all they do is can-bus engineering on a much bigger scale

http://www.mrs-electronic.de/english/home.html This engineer was requested by Flyin Miata and has already hooked them up for the V8 ND Miata conversion, and as I type working with a buddy of mine in Seattle getting his V8 BRZ computer talking to a GM ECU,.... and without data spikes,....Stay tuned to something being available commercially soon. Hopefully I'm a few weeks away (as I have been told)from getting mine working.
...And the cart marches on. The cart is pulling the horse, but it marches on.

__________________
Inline 4 is best 4

There are many ways to displace.

-Spartarus
Spartarus is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Spartarus For This Useful Post:
cf6mech (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 09:38 AM   #45
Sportsguy83
I Love custom Turbo kits
 
Sportsguy83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: Limited BRZ
Location: Miami
Posts: 10,770
Thanks: 20,004
Thanked 8,344 Times in 4,361 Posts
Mentioned: 441 Post(s)
Tagged: 12 Thread(s)
Garage
I would consider only one swap, LS swap. Thought I won't do it until there is a solution with All systems working properly.

@Manji so everything works with the Motec M150?


I see full blown sells a plug and play package as far as it replacing the stock ECU. (I know the engine harness needs to be moddified to accomodate the new motor sensors).

Last edited by Sportsguy83; 07-29-2016 at 10:24 AM.
Sportsguy83 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Sportsguy83 For This Useful Post:
civicdrivr (07-29-2016), wparsons (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 10:37 AM   #46
Spartarus
...Just add nauseum
 
Spartarus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: 2003 (AP1) S2000
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 545
Thanks: 310
Thanked 784 Times in 335 Posts
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
I would consider only one swap, LS swap. Thought I won't do it until there is a solution with All systems working properly.

@Manji so everything works with the Motec M150? A custom engine harness is still needed to accomodate the swapped motor sensors?

I see full blown sells a plug and play package as far as it replacing the stock ECU.
@Manji has everything working just like OEM. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

@slicktop also has all the OEM systems working, using an Emtrom ECU instead. The Emtron costs thousands less. @Ross and @npavlo know much more about that than me.

That patch harness won't do it. It could, if you plugged in the ECU, and built your new engine harness off of the stock engine harness plug in the engine bay, but you will likely run out of wires.

To do it right, You need to make 2 harnesses to complete the swap. 1 engine harness for all your ECU inputs and outputs, and a patch harness to connect the rest of the car's systems to your chosen ECU.

To do that, you pull the associated wires that you need to retain from the stock ECU plugs, and re-pin them to the appropriate pins on the standalone plug. You then pull all the wires from the original Engine-ECU harness out of the car. You build the new engine harness, and split it at the firewall. the cabin side completes your patch harness, and you pin it to the standalone ECU's plug. The engine side connects to all your sensors, coils, injectors, e-throttle if installed, etc.

If you don't intend to DIY, you're going to have a professional build an engine harness no matter what. The extra cost to have it done right is negligible, after you've paid for one harness. Just figuring the pinout for the stock plug would take as many man-hours as replacing the cabin side and pinning it the way they want.
__________________
Inline 4 is best 4

There are many ways to displace.

-Spartarus
Spartarus is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Spartarus For This Useful Post:
Sportsguy83 (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 12:08 PM   #47
boomslang
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Toyota
Location: USA
Posts: 97
Thanks: 1
Thanked 49 Times in 28 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartarus View Post

That patch harness won't do it. It could, if you plugged in the ECU, and built your new engine harness off of the stock engine harness plug in the engine bay, but you will likely run out of wires.

To do it right, You need to make 2 harnesses to complete the swap. 1 engine harness for all your ECU inputs and outputs, and a patch harness to connect the rest of the car's systems to your chosen ECU.
The 2 harness idea with single standalone ECU (Motec/Emtron) is the only logical route.

You won't run out of wires at the the main engine junction connectors with an LS swap. There are plenty of wires (54 + 8) there to run a V8. Remember the FA20 has 4 cam sensors, 4 cam solenoids, and 8 injectors, along with extra emissions wiring that can be reused as something useful.

Yes, you will also need an ECU patch harness to jump from your factory ECU connectors to the Motec/Emtron.

I have designs for these harnesses.

Unfortunately is seems like there is never going to be mount hardware available to actually put the LS engine/trans in the car.
boomslang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2016, 12:17 PM   #48
Ross
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Drives: 85 corolla gts
Location: Chesapeake , Va
Posts: 361
Thanks: 17
Thanked 177 Times in 110 Posts
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
The way we did the harness was to completely remove the factory engine harness and connectors, the primary engine harness connector was to close to the exhaust to make that work safely in our opinion for our application. We then repined the factory ecu connectors at the wires needed, and repined the fuse block wires needed and built an engine harness.

I get asked all the time for that harness. Do to the amount of rework to the factory harness and different layouts we do not offer generic harnesses for this application.

For a v8 application were the exhaust may not interfere and using a low sensor count I could see reworking the factory primary engine harness connector and building a jumper harness at the ecu connector. This would be similar to how Manji harness was done. But if you start adding in a bunch of sensors I would just build a full harness at that point.
Ross is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ross For This Useful Post:
civicdrivr (07-29-2016), Sportsguy83 (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 12:21 PM   #49
Ross
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Drives: 85 corolla gts
Location: Chesapeake , Va
Posts: 361
Thanks: 17
Thanked 177 Times in 110 Posts
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
As for the mount hardware, that should actually not be very hard to do. Most likely the worst part would be cleanly getting the transmission bracing out of the tunnel and re-bracing the mounting point in the tunnel for the transmission.
Ross is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ross For This Useful Post:
civicdrivr (07-29-2016), Sportsguy83 (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 03:24 PM   #50
Spartarus
...Just add nauseum
 
Spartarus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: 2003 (AP1) S2000
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 545
Thanks: 310
Thanked 784 Times in 335 Posts
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
As for the mount hardware, that should actually not be very hard to do. Most likely the worst part would be cleanly getting the transmission bracing out of the tunnel and re-bracing the mounting point in the tunnel for the transmission.
All the captive hardware for mounting the transmission crossmember is on a single large stamped plate / brace. There's only spot welds holding it on. You don't have to cut into the chassis at all. Spot drilling that brace piece out also opens the transmission tunnel up quite a bit, and makes space for new components and hardware.

Much easier than clearancing the tunnel brace with a grinder and recycling the old captive hardware.

You have to grind the coating off to weld anything new on anyway, and cutting spot welds is pretty clean with the right tools.
__________________
Inline 4 is best 4

There are many ways to displace.

-Spartarus
Spartarus is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Spartarus For This Useful Post:
civicdrivr (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 04:02 PM   #51
cf6mech
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: FRS Silver LS1 swapped.
Location: Texas
Posts: 752
Thanks: 621
Thanked 766 Times in 302 Posts
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Help is on the way....very soon....we are next..in fact as I'm typing this its being done.....what the article doesnt mention is a MRS engineer got everything working seamlessly .......https://us.mrs-electronic.com/linking-flyin-miata/
cf6mech is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cf6mech For This Useful Post:
civicdrivr (08-02-2016), wooly35 (07-29-2016)
Old 07-29-2016, 05:02 PM   #52
Ross
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Drives: 85 corolla gts
Location: Chesapeake , Va
Posts: 361
Thanks: 17
Thanked 177 Times in 110 Posts
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I spent quite a bit of time removing the trans mount brace from the tunnel, using a couple spot weld bits. There are quite a few spot welds. After removing the factory bracing we welded plate to the tunnel fully surrounding the sides and top. Before we could properly weld the plate in we had to remove the sound deadening from the interior of the vehicle that was present on the tunnel. Do to working area, I found this to be the shittiest part of doing the swap. Building some mounts and brackets really should not be the end of the world.
Ross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2016, 07:13 PM   #53
cf6mech
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: FRS Silver LS1 swapped.
Location: Texas
Posts: 752
Thanks: 621
Thanked 766 Times in 302 Posts
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
MRS Electronicss posted today BRZ Blown LS3 ........https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...&id=1411620390 There will not be a need for thousands of dollars for an Emtron or Motec.

Last edited by cf6mech; 07-29-2016 at 07:26 PM.
cf6mech is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to cf6mech For This Useful Post:
Zer0 (07-30-2016)
Old 07-30-2016, 04:59 AM   #54
Zer0
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Drives: 2015 frs
Location: Ca
Posts: 511
Thanks: 426
Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
@cf6mech Glad to hear of another company working on this. To bad the last one didn't work. Good luck and keep me posted.
Zer0 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Zer0 For This Useful Post:
cf6mech (07-30-2016)
Old 07-30-2016, 12:58 PM   #55
tirespin782
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 02 s2k, 08 350z, 08 Fit sport
Location: NOLA
Posts: 24
Thanks: 33
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
That link no longer works fyi.
tirespin782 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to tirespin782 For This Useful Post:
Calum (07-30-2016)
Old 07-30-2016, 04:34 PM   #56
cf6mech
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: FRS Silver LS1 swapped.
Location: Texas
Posts: 752
Thanks: 621
Thanked 766 Times in 302 Posts
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tirespin782 View Post
That link no longer works fyi.
Works for me, most probably it doesnt work because your not his friend on facebook.....my bad.....will share more if i can.
cf6mech is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cf6mech For This Useful Post:
Calum (07-30-2016), tirespin782 (07-30-2016)
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Switching to LEDs. Do I need CANBUS bulbs? soilent BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics 11 01-07-2016 11:28 PM
Odb2/canbus flexibility Futaba Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment 1 08-25-2015 03:00 PM
CanBus Triple xjohnx Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment 8 01-31-2015 11:39 AM
Toyota codefest CANbus competition robot Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment 5 12-12-2014 03:11 AM
CANBus pseudo Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment 4 09-03-2014 01:11 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.