rod bearing failure. New long block question. - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

USMCgetsome · 05-20-2016, 01:35 AM

Picking up a long block that is from an 2015 manual trans. I have a 2013 auto and my question is....... I want to convert that manual block to auto to bolt up to my auto trans. I see that there is a small difference in the two setups. Is there any problem other then swappin over my flexplate and tc to the other block? Anything else i have to worry about?

GsxrMe · 05-20-2016, 08:01 AM

You better find a tuner and/or shop to assist you.

spitfire481 · 05-20-2016, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCgetsome

Picking up a long block that is from an 2015 manual trans. I have a 2013 auto and my question is....... I want to convert that manual block to auto to bolt up to my auto trans. I see that there is a small difference in the two setups. Is there any problem other then swappin over my flexplate and tc to the other block? Anything else i have to worry about?

the upper oil pan on the auto should have one extra hose next to the lower radiator hose, if its the same as the last one we did. just swap upper oil pans, unless the used motor doesn't come with it then you need to use yours anyway.

FRSBRZGT86FAN · 05-20-2016, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCgetsome

Picking up a long block that is from an 2015 manual trans. I have a 2013 auto and my question is....... I want to convert that manual block to auto to bolt up to my auto trans. I see that there is a small difference in the two setups. Is there any problem other then swappin over my flexplate and tc to the other block? Anything else i have to worry about?

Question: How did you get a spun bearing? Are you running boost or anything?

USMCgetsome · 05-20-2016, 06:16 PM

Fully stock. It had a leak that I found on the bottom right cam sensor area of the timing cover/oil pump plate. It was dripping on the rear 02 sensor and exhaust manifold and never got to the floor for me to see it was leaking oil. To see it finally I removed the under plate of the car and you could tell it was leaking for awhile. The wife drives the car during the week and I drive it ocassionally on the weekend. By the time it started to tap it was too late. I'm assuming it's the rod bearings because of all the metal shavings in the pan. Rotated by hand and it still has compression and you can hear it pump up and bleed. But when running the tapping is full blown now and sounds like rod knock.

Jaden · 05-20-2016, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCgetsome

Fully stock. It had a leak that I found on the bottom right cam sensor area of the timing cover/oil pump plate. It was dripping on the rear 02 sensor and exhaust manifold and never got to the floor for me to see it was leaking oil. To see it finally I removed the under plate of the car and you could tell it was leaking for awhile. The wife drives the car during the week and I drive it ocassionally on the weekend. By the time it started to tap it was too late. I'm assuming it's the rod bearings because of all the metal shavings in the pan. Rotated by hand and it still has compression and you can hear it pump up and bleed. But when running the tapping is full blown now and sounds like rod knock.

Just had the exact same issue.

spun a rod bearing is most likely culprit...

looking at new engines for installing this weekend now...

Jaden

TRAKRAVN · 05-20-2016, 06:32 PM

Remember to check your oil at every fill up with the new motor.

Decay107 · 05-20-2016, 07:55 PM

What was your mileage and any other relevant details? Oil brand? Dealer Service? Driving Style?

This is the third instance of 2013 rod knock I've heard of this month.

USMCgetsome · 05-21-2016, 01:10 AM

36,800 mi. We are the 3rd owner and wife drives it. We have never gone above 85 in the car. non dealer oil changes. I've always done them 4k-5k with 0w20 and just recently i bumped it to 5w20 this last change. Usually K&N oil filter and whatever full synthetic was on sale. I was waiting on that damn TSB for the reflash to come around but the only one that popped up was the Ignition key tsb.

Plans is hoping that the 2015 ecu and 2015 block will be a better solution than the 2013.

Anyone know if the ecu pin out or wiring or any sensor are different from 2013-15?

cdq85 · 05-24-2016, 01:13 PM

am I missing something here? that should fall under the powertrain warranty which is 5yr/60k. you would have to prove your oil changes though. curious if that's worth a shot for you instead of forking over all that cash.

Gear_One_Performance · 05-24-2016, 01:44 PM

Typically when putting in a motor of questionable origin we'll warm the car up and then dump that oil just to clear out anything that may have made it's way in there as well.

Spartarus · 05-24-2016, 09:57 PM

Take off the plate on the back of the RH head and swap over your vacuum pump.

MT engines just have a plate and sealant. AT motors have a vacuum pump running off the camshaft.

USMCgetsome · 05-26-2016, 08:32 PM

Yes ty you for that info I did notice that about the vacuum pump.

USMCgetsome · 06-12-2016, 04:35 PM

Vacuum pump, upper oil pan/lower sub oil pan, aluminum coolant tube with small thermostat, flex plate and torque converter, 2013 coolant temp sensor (instrument cluster). Those were all the items needed to swap over. Also replaced fuel injector computer with the new 2015 block.

05-20-2016, 01:35 AM	#1
USMCgetsome Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: stock 2013 fr-s Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	rod bearing failure. New long block question. Picking up a long block that is from an 2015 manual trans. I have a 2013 auto and my question is....... I want to convert that manual block to auto to bolt up to my auto trans. I see that there is a small difference in the two setups. Is there any problem other then swappin over my flexplate and tc to the other block? Anything else i have to worry about?

05-20-2016, 08:01 AM	#2
GsxrMe Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Drives: Late 2014 Subaru BRZ Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 557 Thanks: 20 Thanked 183 Times in 139 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	You better find a tuner and/or shop to assist you. __________________ 2014 Subaru BRZ FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe

05-20-2016, 07:55 PM	#8
Decay107 Turning is for Nerds Join Date: Aug 2013 Drives: 35 characters is not enough Location: PDX Posts: 1,974 Thanks: 836 Thanked 1,259 Times in 717 Posts Mentioned: 186 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	What was your mileage and any other relevant details? Oil brand? Dealer Service? Driving Style? This is the third instance of 2013 rod knock I've heard of this month. __________________ My build thread / journal / evidence for warranty claim denial Motorcycle build thread

05-24-2016, 09:57 PM	#12
Spartarus ...Just add nauseum Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: 2003 (AP1) S2000 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 545 Thanks: 310 Thanked 784 Times in 335 Posts Mentioned: 19 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Take off the plate on the back of the RH head and swap over your vacuum pump. MT engines just have a plate and sealant. AT motors have a vacuum pump running off the camshaft. __________________ Inline 4 is best 4 There are many ways to displace. -Spartarus

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05-20-2016, 06:16 PM	#5
USMCgetsome Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: stock 2013 fr-s Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Fully stock. It had a leak that I found on the bottom right cam sensor area of the timing cover/oil pump plate. It was dripping on the rear 02 sensor and exhaust manifold and never got to the floor for me to see it was leaking oil. To see it finally I removed the under plate of the car and you could tell it was leaking for awhile. The wife drives the car during the week and I drive it ocassionally on the weekend. By the time it started to tap it was too late. I'm assuming it's the rod bearings because of all the metal shavings in the pan. Rotated by hand and it still has compression and you can hear it pump up and bleed. But when running the tapping is full blown now and sounds like rod knock.

05-20-2016, 06:32 PM	#7
TRAKRAVN Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: 2015 Scion FRS - Raven Location: Brampton Posts: 141 Thanks: 107 Thanked 76 Times in 48 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Remember to check your oil at every fill up with the new motor.

05-21-2016, 01:10 AM	#9
USMCgetsome Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: stock 2013 fr-s Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	36,800 mi. We are the 3rd owner and wife drives it. We have never gone above 85 in the car. non dealer oil changes. I've always done them 4k-5k with 0w20 and just recently i bumped it to 5w20 this last change. Usually K&N oil filter and whatever full synthetic was on sale. I was waiting on that damn TSB for the reflash to come around but the only one that popped up was the Ignition key tsb. Plans is hoping that the 2015 ecu and 2015 block will be a better solution than the 2013. Anyone know if the ecu pin out or wiring or any sensor are different from 2013-15?

05-24-2016, 01:13 PM	#10
cdq85 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Drives: 2013 Raven FR-S Location: Greensburg, PA Posts: 249 Thanks: 107 Thanked 285 Times in 113 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	am I missing something here? that should fall under the powertrain warranty which is 5yr/60k. you would have to prove your oil changes though. curious if that's worth a shot for you instead of forking over all that cash.

05-24-2016, 01:44 PM	#11
Gear_One_Performance Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Drives: 2014 BRZ SCCA STU endurance car Location: West Chester, Pennsylvania Posts: 199 Thanks: 2 Thanked 142 Times in 82 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Typically when putting in a motor of questionable origin we'll warm the car up and then dump that oil just to clear out anything that may have made it's way in there as well.

05-26-2016, 08:32 PM	#13
USMCgetsome Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: stock 2013 fr-s Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Yes ty you for that info I did notice that about the vacuum pump.

06-12-2016, 04:35 PM	#14
USMCgetsome Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: stock 2013 fr-s Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Vacuum pump, upper oil pan/lower sub oil pan, aluminum coolant tube with small thermostat, flex plate and torque converter, 2013 coolant temp sensor (instrument cluster). Those were all the items needed to swap over. Also replaced fuel injector computer with the new 2015 block.

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