Southbend Stage3/2 Endurance on order

[Fastbrew]

I have been having issues with a Comp Clutch Stage 3 segmented ceramic and I have decided to just rip the thing out and replace it with a different brand.

I searched high and low and did my research on many different brands.

I ended up chosing SB because of their great reputation and their attention to detail.

Prior to placing my order - I took the opportunity to discuss my options.

Here is what they put together for me:

Their Stage 3 endurance clutch with a stage 2 flywheel. Why? It's heavier and this is an FI DD/Street/AX/track car. The fact that the flywheel is not super light should make it more like the OEM DMF even though it's a SMF. It should keep spinning rotational mass a bit to make it a bit more well mannered - especially in situations like being on a hill, in stop/go traffic. I think it's a really nice option and I am glad they suggested it.

It ran $850 for the clutch/flywheel/bolts etc. Should hold up to 450 ft lbs of torque and not produce much chatter.

We will see in about two weeks.

Hopefully I have chosen a "knock it out of the park" combo.

Chime in if you are running a SB clutch too! I would love to hear how yours is working out.

[Fastbrew]

PS - Just got the shipping notification - They put this combo together for me in less than two hours and got it into UPS on a Friday afternoon before a holiday weekend. Great customer service so far!

[FrX]

I've not run one on an FRS/BRZ yet (they were not quite ready when I was in the market for one), but I have one of their clutches (what would be considered their Stage 2 Endurance now) on an SR20 swapped 240SX I have. It is a great clutch, easy driving, and has put up to a ton of abuse so far.

[Fastbrew]

I also placed an order for some Pentosin (MTF2) SAE GL-4 75W-80 which I am going to fill up with on this pass. Adding some stainless clutch line as well.

[Fastbrew]

Quick bump to tell the rest of the story.

I had the SB installed and I drove it like a granny for about 750 miles. This was very difficult for me. I didn't boost it once. My car is making 285WHP and almost the same in torque now so this was such a bummer. But - I did it. Once I hit 750 miles of mostly city driving, I started to boost and shift a bit harder. I gave it another 100 miles and then started driving like normal - which is pretty aggressive on the gas/gears

Verdict? I love this clutch. It was a perfect choice for me and I am really glad I switched. It behaves perfectly for DD and it holds the torque of my AVO setup. Almost no chatter and what is there is a deep sound. It does not chatter at idle with or without the AC in my case. It comes with a flywheel and I chose the stage 2 because I wanted a heavier flywheel for DD manners.

The car engages smoothly. It is not too heavy on the foot. I would definitely got this route again. Now - to see if it holds up. But - I have heard great things about carbon/kevlar durability so I am not too worried.

So - a win on the SB. Nice company to work with as well. I believe the import clutch guy is named Dave so give him a buzz if you have questions.

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

Quick bump to tell the rest of the story.

I had the SB installed and I drove it like a granny for about 750 miles. This was very difficult for me. I didn't boost it once. My car is making 285WHP and almost the same in torque now so this was such a bummer. But - I did it. Once I hit 750 miles of mostly city driving, I started to boost and shift a bit harder. I gave it another 100 miles and then started driving like normal - which is pretty aggressive on the gas/gears

Verdict? I love this clutch. It was a perfect choice for me and I am really glad I switched. It behaves perfectly for DD and it holds the torque of my AVO setup. Almost no chatter and what is there is a deep sound. It does not chatter at idle with or without the AC in my case. It comes with a flywheel and I chose the stage 2 because I wanted a heavier flywheel for DD manners.

The car engages smoothly. It is not too heavy on the foot. I would definitely got this route again. Now - to see if it holds up. But - I have heard great things about carbon/kevlar durability so I am not too worried.

So - a win on the SB. Nice company to work with as well. I believe the import clutch guy is named Dave so give him a buzz if you have questions.

Hey man, how does the clutch feel after some time later? I may be looking to get the same

[kmbkk]

Originally Posted by rixter145

Hey man, how does the clutch feel after some time later? I may be looking to get the same

I'm probably picking one up soon myself. I think they've changed the flywheel, as it's now 14.2 lbs. I believe it was 18 lbs prior.

[Fastbrew]

Originally Posted by rixter145

Hey man, how does the clutch feel after some time later? I may be looking to get the same

I love it. I am adding flex fuel and running e-85 starting about Aug 3. That will put my car at 350WHP. I will tell you how it works out but the stage3 clutch / stage 2 flywheel is awesome for DD/Fun. Best of both worlds IMO. I don't think I will ever use another clutch brand again. Just remember - follow the break in to the T and baby it for hundreds of miles (No boost, launches, etc). No fun but the result is awesome so far!

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by Fastbrew

I love it. I am adding flex fuel and running e-85 starting about Aug 3. That will put my car at 350WHP. I will tell you how it works out but the stage3 clutch / stage 2 flywheel is awesome for DD/Fun. Best of both worlds IMO. I don't think I will ever use another clutch brand again. Just remember - follow the break in to the T and baby it for hundreds of miles (No boost, launches, etc). No fun but the result is awesome so far!

Awesome. Yeah I am running at 240 whp with AVO turbo and still a catted OP with stock clutch.

Going to get catless and new clutch *the south bend one* and push it to 300 whp too

[#maverick#]

I have southbend 6 puck and I launch the fuck out of it, I preload the drivetrain by using the handbrake and slipping the clutch and then lowering handbrake and slipping it out. Its chattery as fuck but not a bad clutch to drive on

[phobos512]

Originally Posted by #maverick#

...I preload the drivetrain by using the handbrake and slipping the clutch and then lowering handbrake and slipping it out...

I've only been driving a manual for 14 months now but...why would you do this? This just sounds like you're trying to destroy your clutch?

[churchx]

From what i know something like that should be done only in rare ocasions like starting to drive when car standing uphill or partially on ramp, to not roll backwards, but that's about it, in all other cases it's excessive clutch wear with no purpose. When car is stationary on leveled road, keep leg on brakes. Starting to go - put legs on clutch & gas. I see no practical need for any .. "drivetrain preloading".

[#maverick#]

Originally Posted by phobos512

I've only been driving a manual for 14 months now but...why would you do this? This just sounds like you're trying to destroy your clutch?

Originally Posted by churchx

From what i know something like that should be done only in rare ocasions like starting to drive when car standing uphill or partially on ramp, to not roll backwards, but that's about it, in all other cases it's excessive clutch wear with no purpose. When car is stationary on leveled road, keep leg on brakes. Starting to go - put legs on clutch & gas. I see no practical need for any .. "drivetrain preloading".

Haha Im sorry I didnt mention, this is at the drag strip when launching the car, helps reduce wheelspin as well as the likelyhood of breaking shit.

[motoxman]

A Pre-loaded drivetrain for launching is a desirable thing. It reduces static drivetrain shock (from stand still) and keeps you from braking things on a hard launch... think about it this way, your car is setting still while you are revving the engine in anticipation of a hard launch for a drag race. If you just let off the clutch while setting there, all of the "slack" in the drivetrain is taken up in a split second causing a huge thrust load on the gear faces and magnitudes higher shock load on the transmission bearings and case as well as the driveshaft and rear diff. IF instead you are revving the engine with a slight load on the drivetrain (accomplished by letting off of the clutch to the point of partial engagement while holding the emergency brake so the car does not move forward) and let off of the clutch, at time of launch the drivetrain is pre-loaded (all the "slack" is taken up) and the shock loads are MUCH lower. This greatly reduces the chances of breaking parts in the drivetrain and aids in a much better and controlled launch.


Hope this info helps...


Note we do the same thing for Drift and for Grip racing. Smooth throttle transitions and gear changes are paramount to maintaining proper traction (or spin if drifting) control when launching or cornering.