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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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12-29-2013, 07:09 PM | #15 | ||
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12-31-2013, 03:52 AM | #16 |
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another great video! thanks man and congrats on the awesome coilovers. I watched your videos before buying my BRZ and I felt you were spot on with just about everything.I also enjoy your videos because they give you a whole other view on what it acutely takes to modify a car (like all the head aches) Thanks again!!
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12-31-2013, 04:53 PM | #17 | |
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It has to be hard for vendors and manufactures to straddle this line. Once their product ships they have no idea who installs it and if it is right. There are plenty of variables, but one thing is for sure support is everything. So is documentation.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dezoris For This Useful Post: | brianL. (01-02-2014) |
12-31-2013, 05:10 PM | #18 | |
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Note: for anyone interested in these, the instructions are a bit wrong. The front/rear shock body uses a 6mm/5mm hex key to hold the shock shaft in place when tightening the upper nut. The instructions tell you to use a 5mm/4mm front/rear hex key. -alex |
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The Following User Says Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | Dezoris (01-02-2014) |
01-01-2014, 11:18 AM | #19 |
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Best ROI
I installed my Ohlins a few weeks ago. It is the most satisfying of all the mods so far. Instantly steering feel, ride, and handling are like a +$70k car. Best 3k I have spent. I do not have time or expertise to fine tune a suspension. Finding a suspension expert in Taiwan is like trying to finding a comb in a Buddhist monastery.
People ride in the car and say I thought you put in coilovers? If your not busting your kidneys they must not be good dampers. The highways here are a little freer so I often see 160~180km/hr. They are smooth and do not bottom out or rattle the car over the very nasty expansion strips. One my daily mountain commute they are bliss. Only complaint is occasional short wheelbase front/back bucking but it is subtle and I think I can dial it out after a little more experience. It will be another couple months before I get it on the track. |
01-02-2014, 01:50 AM | #20 | |
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01-02-2014, 02:09 AM | #21 |
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been saving my pennies for this kit. this solidifies my decision. great information here. thank you.
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01-02-2014, 03:02 AM | #22 |
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I know it's a cliché but this is a perfect example of getting what you pay for.
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My car is completely stock except for all the mods.
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01-02-2014, 01:21 PM | #23 |
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Good video, thanks. Ohlins is the equivalence of a BMW M car, IMO. Sure you can build the M car to perform better on track or you can go the other way and make the car better on the street....but to do both better is very difficult and costly.
I wish Ohlins would add caster adjustment to their plates though. For the amount spent, most people buying them will also be interested in caster adjustment. You get a great damper with Ebay style top mounts. Last edited by mike156; 01-02-2014 at 01:35 PM. |
01-02-2014, 03:08 PM | #24 |
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This is a fantastic video. In fact, I find all of your videos to be incredibly informative and entertaining. I've watched virtually every one of them.
I've just recently purchased my FR-S and will be looking to "evolve" it over time. The balance that you are seeking to strike on your own car (DD civility and reliability with even more track capability) is exactly what I envision for my own car. I imagine adding FI at some point and favor superchargers over turbochargers due to the linear power delivery of a supercharger. I would also love to add, in no particular order, exhaust (headers, over pipe, front pipe, axle or cat back), brakes, suspension, wheels/tires, various bushings,.... I've never modded any car that I've owned and frankly struggle a little with where to begin. My instinct says wheels/tires first. Like most of us, I also have to pace myself on incurring costs. Any advice? |
01-02-2014, 03:35 PM | #25 | |
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Starting from scratch, it's the tires that make the single biggest difference on the car. Then a more aggressive brake pad. If you have an FRS on stock suspension and good tires, the Strano front ARB neutralizes oversteer. These were the biggest payouts for the least amount of money. If you plan on doing exhaust/overpipe go with the smallest Perrin front bar. The entire exhaust route is only going to make a big difference when doing tuning. Exhaust made almost no tangible difference in power N/A without tuning. From there is mostly just which FI kit to go with, you will get 20 different arguments on the topic and for certain this thread is not the place for that one.
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01-02-2014, 03:48 PM | #26 |
Crap another obsession.
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Oh man those are pretty. I wouldn't choose any other coilovers.
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01-20-2014, 08:08 PM | #27 |
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Finally watched this video..fantastic and intriguing interview. And funny too (you guys need more patience haha.. messin up that lca )
..edit: just watched a few other vids: Really liked the 3 pat intro, the track reviews of the sc/brakes and also the brake kit overview. No doubt Ohlins is #1 in the world for reputation. This is going to give the Tein SRC some competition as they're the same price point and will make it a tough decision... but I think Ohlins has the edge over the SRC...simply for Ohlins' reputation/history. (and for those that might suggest KW.. who??! ..who is KW? lol.. I never heard of them 20 years ago.. not to mention their coilovers look like cheesy cheap knockoffs and colored like popsicles.) Btw: I notice you mention the "if ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy regarding car tuning. I (and many others I am sure) admire that and would like to follow the same sense. But, doesn't adding a SC/FI totally contradict this??? Imo: simple and "if it ain't broke don't fix it" tuning would be to keep the car as stock as possible (which FI/SC definitely isn't). Or, at least keep it NA with simple, purely functional mods. FI/SC just complicates it too much for simplicity, reliability and both a DD and hobbyist track car. (didn't 2-3 people already pop their engines with conservative 250ish hp numbers?? ....FI + high comp piston + accidental lean fuel = waay too much risk for our stock engines). Just my 2 cents. I guess there's many that are always going to want more and more power..which is understandable and reasonable since it isn't a fast car. It's all subjective I guess. Last edited by fooddude; 01-21-2014 at 03:27 AM. |
01-22-2014, 11:24 PM | #28 | |
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If it aint broke don't fix it. Its true for so much. Part of this project was seeing if the aftermarket would actually fix the problems with power on this car without making it a headache. I took a risk on trying it. And went very conservative. Perrin has a good reputation on multiple platforms and understands where to draw the line. His concerns were the same as yours, high compression, high revving and boost, not a great mix. So he built his car and tunes on the lower end of 200HP and thus far the car was track proven, no issues with UOA. But that's the thing for 5k, most people are going to want more that 60-70HP. For me its a mixed bag, and so is modifying it.
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