Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

Absolutely no issues with P.mu Club Racer pads, BUT...I've been hypnotized by RR-Racing Sport kit in silver. Thinking of selling the front and rear pads and going with just RR-R Sport front kit.

Would I see similar/better performance (no fade, increased longevity, etc.) by going from P.mu CR pads to RR-R Sport kit front only? I would be lying if I said that the LOOK of the bigger rotor and caliper was not a factor in my decision.

I'm not forced to change out brakes as I have stock pads, and P.mu pads are only used for the track. I am aware that there are other proven brake upgrades available (AP Sprint Kit) but RR-R Sport kit seems like a good middle ground IFF it performs better than P.mu CR front and rear pads.

So I think this really depends on what you're doing with them and what you're experiencing currently.

My brake calipers and rotors are stock, Performance Friction 08 (endurance compound) pads, stainless lines, and Castrol SRF fluid. Tires are 245/40-17 Direzza Z2 SS. I have an absolutely fun time with this setup at standard HPDE days with 20-30 minute sessions. Sure, with better brakes I could dive deeper into the braking zones and set better lap times... but I'm not taking home a Rolex so is it worth the $2k+ upgrade... 'meh'.

Now the flip side. Right about the 30-35 minute mark of hard driving (Instructor group w/ 1hr sessions or open track) this setup starts to inspire less confidence. Braking distance begins to increase appreciably. The added braking requirement now puts more heat into the pads which exacerbates the problem until around 37-38 minutes where things can start to get 'dicy' but manageable so I'm pulling back into the pits because it's not worth the risk to keep pushing. That's where I personally feel the value of the kit comes into play. Safety first, then enjoyment (being able to run a full session), then asthetics.

You'll need to determine honestly for yourself if you're nearing/exceeding the capacity of your current system for your desired application (HPDE / Time Trial / etc.). That said, if you do go with the front kit, you should still use a matched (or as close as you can get) set of pads to the front for the rear factory caliper/rotor config. The EBD in this car can do some funky things and you definitely don't want to destroy a set of street pads and have no rear brakes. Also, see if the kit you're looking at will work with your current wheels or if that's going to be another expense.

[LOLS2K]

@Uplink I am doing mostly daily driving with about 4-5 HPDE events per year. No endurance driving and the pads are working well for me on the track, so far. I only use the P.mu pads on the track, and revert back to stock pads for daily driving. Tires are 225/45-17 Bridgestone RE71r.
@CSGMike brought something up that I had overlooked. P.mu sells a CR pad that will fit into the Wilwood caliper in the RR-Racing Sport Kit.

Now that I know this, I could go with the RR-Racing Sport Kit and upgrade to P.mu CR pads if I find that the Wilwood BP pads do not satisfy my needs.

Edit: Plenty of time before next track day. Knowing myself I would buy something completely different like wheels or coilovers before then. HAHA
But I like thinking about this stuff and knowing my options. Furthermore, my inquiry led me to learn something new (that P.mu cuts pads for different caliper options).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

@Uplink I am doing mostly daily driving with about 4-5 HPDE events per year. No endurance driving and the pads are working well for me on the track, so far. I only use the P.mu pads on the track, and revert back to stock pads for daily driving. Tires are 225/45-17 Bridgestone RE71r.
@CSGMike brought something up that I had overlooked. P.mu sells a CR pad that will fit into the Wilwood caliper in the RR-Racing Sport Kit.

Now that I know this, I could go with the RR-Racing Sport Kit and upgrade to P.mu CR pads if I find that the Wilwood BP pads do not satisfy my needs.

Edit: Plenty of time before next track day. Knowing myself I would buy something completely different like wheels or coilovers before then. HAHA
But I like thinking about this stuff and knowing my options. Furthermore, my inquiry led me to learn something new (that P.mu cuts pads for different caliper options).

Most pad manufacturers can make any pad in any shape, if you have a vendor that is direct with them.

That second part is the hard part

[LOLS2K]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Most pad manufacturers can make any pad in any shape, if you have a vendor that is direct with them.

That second part is the hard part

Well that's where CSG comes in amirite...

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Most pad manufacturers can make any pad in any shape, if you have a vendor that is direct with them.

That second part is the hard part

My new best friend...

Kinda OT, I was looking at the AP Racing Sprint kit but wanted to retain the PFC 08 compound. Nobody seems to sell it with them and I recall reading somewhere that even though it (AP Caliper) uses a standard backing plate shape, the radial depth is actually non-standard (or at least a bit taller to engage more of the outer edge of the rotor face for better torque). Have you heard this?

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

@Uplink I am doing mostly daily driving with about 4-5 HPDE events per year. No endurance driving and the pads are working well for me on the track, so far. I only use the P.mu pads on the track, and revert back to stock pads for daily driving. Tires are 225/45-17 Bridgestone RE71r.
@CSGMike brought something up that I had overlooked. P.mu sells a CR pad that will fit into the Wilwood caliper in the RR-Racing Sport Kit.

Now that I know this, I could go with the RR-Racing Sport Kit and upgrade to P.mu CR pads if I find that the Wilwood BP pads do not satisfy my needs.

Edit: Plenty of time before next track day. Knowing myself I would buy something completely different like wheels or coilovers before then. HAHA
But I like thinking about this stuff and knowing my options. Furthermore, my inquiry led me to learn something new (that P.mu cuts pads for different caliper options).

One more advantage to add for the RR-kit... pad changes are a snap! I think you have a winner.

[EAGLE5]

@Uplink
I really like the PFC 08. I think you're the only person other than me to use them on the twins. I've never done longer than 30 minutes in a session, and I never ran into fade with them. My concentration and stomach fade after 25 minutes. When I did 30, I pulled in, took of my helmet, and threw up. Fun!

They also work great on the street. Just a bit of whine, but good grip cold.

I also don't think they're a problem for braking late, hard, and deep. Certainly their bite is better than stock pads. Others might bite a bit quicker, but it's dead simple to make ABS engage at high speeds.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Uplink

One more advantage to add for the RR-kit... pad changes are a snap! I think you have a winner.

If you think that's easy, check out the Brembo race calipers...

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Uplink

My new best friend...

Kinda OT, I was looking at the AP Racing Sprint kit but wanted to retain the PFC 08 compound. Nobody seems to sell it with them and I recall reading somewhere that even though it (AP Caliper) uses a standard backing plate shape, the radial depth is actually non-standard (or at least a bit taller to engage more of the outer edge of the rotor face for better torque). Have you heard this?

It's a standard pad shape.

[Fricke]

So then its done.
Got a really great deal on KW CS 2 way, from a really great man

But this year i want to get it all right from start, and just make some miner personal tweaks.

So what is a really god baseline, to start from based on thees factors.

sadly no r-compounds, so TW180 at the lowest, so AD08R or KU36.

17x9 et35 Enkei rpf1, stay whit 235 or go wider whit 245 or 255?
That question is will it be faster whit wider tiers?
in the corners most surely, but will it lose speed on the straights.
ill could just go for different setts of tiers for different tracks

Lets say 235 tiers for Mantorp whit the long straight, and 245-255 for the other tracks?

Also getting the KW sway bars, to go whit the KW cs 2 way, do its really god price match back home, and it feels right to go kw all the way.

So whit all this in mind, what would a really god wheel alignment to start from this season be?


Some of the tracks for 2016 Timeattack that i know of now.
In the movies this years winner in the unlimited class on slicks, in his Porsche 997 RSR.

"Mantorp" he has driven a 1:14.8xx lap her.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVMWWutuZkM"]1,17,0 Mantorp - YouTube[/ame]

"Gelleråsen"
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNe02jm_-08"]Gelleråsen Ta - YouTube[/ame]

"Knutstorp"
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=025t29--uww"]Knutstorp 59,0 - YouTube[/ame]

"Kinnekulle" whit an s2000 on r888 and cs.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuoOUKrUoM8"]Kinnekulle 2015 Kraft sc S2000 - YouTube[/ame]

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fricke

So then its done.
Got a really great deal on KW CS 2 way, from a really great man

But this year i want to get it all right from start, and just make some miner personal tweaks.

So what is a really god baseline, to start from based on thees factors.

sadly no r-compounds, so TW180 at the lowest, so AD08R or KU36.

17x9 et35 Enkei rpf1, stay whit 235 or go wider whit 245 or 255?
That question is will it be faster whit wider tiers?
in the corners most surely, but will it lose speed on the straights.
ill could just go for different setts of tiers for different tracks

Lets say 235 tiers for Mantorp whit the long straight, and 245-255 for the other tracks?

Also getting the KW sway bars, to go whit the KW cs 2 way, do its really god price match back home, and it feels right to go kw all the way.

So whit all this in mind, what would a really god wheel alignment to start from this season be?


Some of the tracks for 2016 Timeattack that i know of now.
In the movies this years winner in the unlimited class on slicks, in his Porsche 997 RSR.

Can you give me a list of EVERY 180-200TW tire available to you?

[Fricke]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Can you give me a list of EVERY 180-200TW tire available to you?

Yes sire
Just got to gather some solid info on that first.
I'll be back.

[Blizzard]

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

@Uplink I am doing mostly daily driving with about 4-5 HPDE events per year. No endurance driving and the pads are working well for me on the track, so far. I only use the P.mu pads on the track, and revert back to stock pads for daily driving. Tires are 225/45-17 Bridgestone RE71r.
@CSGMike brought something up that I had overlooked. P.mu sells a CR pad that will fit into the Wilwood caliper in the RR-Racing Sport Kit.

Now that I know this, I could go with the RR-Racing Sport Kit and upgrade to P.mu CR pads if I find that the Wilwood BP pads do not satisfy my needs.

Edit: Plenty of time before next track day. Knowing myself I would buy something completely different like wheels or coilovers before then. HAHA
But I like thinking about this stuff and knowing my options. Furthermore, my inquiry led me to learn something new (that P.mu cuts pads for different caliper options).

I have had the RR Racing BBK stage iv front and stage i rear for a while now and it has been fantastic. Customer support is awesome, they function great, the only thing I didn't care for was the Wilwood BP-20 pads. I think it was the cold temperatures my last two NASA events, but I went through front pads so fast. I am going to try different pads next time. The pads are so thick though, it is great. The size is easy to find too.

[Blizzard]

Originally Posted by Fricke

So then its done.
Got a really great deal on KW CS 2 way, from a really great man

But this year i want to get it all right from start, and just make some miner personal tweaks.

So what is a really god baseline, to start from based on thees factors.

sadly no r-compounds, so TW180 at the lowest, so AD08R or KU36.

17x9 et35 Enkei rpf1, stay whit 235 or go wider whit 245 or 255?
That question is will it be faster whit wider tiers?
in the corners most surely, but will it lose speed on the straights.
ill could just go for different setts of tiers for different tracks

Lets say 235 tiers for Mantorp whit the long straight, and 245-255 for the other tracks?

Also getting the KW sway bars, to go whit the KW cs 2 way, do its really god price match back home, and it feels right to go kw all the way.

So whit all this in mind, what would a really god wheel alignment to start from this season be?


Some of the tracks for 2016 Timeattack that i know of now.
In the movies this years winner in the unlimited class on slicks, in his Porsche 997 RSR.

"Mantorp" he has driven a 1:14.8xx lap her.

"Gelleråsen"

"Knutstorp"

"Kinnekulle" whit an s2000 on r888 and cs.

I used Maxxis RC-1's in both 235 and 255 widths (17"). The 235's were faster, even with my Jackson Racing supercharger. As for alignment, I am at -2.9 front and -2.4 rear and getting consistent tire temps across the tires. I am on Tein SRC's.