Replacing wheel stud advice please

[wbradley]

While swapping my summer wheels on my STI this morning I must have damaged a wheel stud. It cannot be torqued.

Two questions- If I have properly torqued the other 4 bolts as required is it ok to drive to a repair location if is isnt too far and no highway speed?

And, where should I go? The dealer isn't very far but I suppose it depends if this is a big deal to them. Otherwise a private garage is quite a bit farther but he knows Subarus. I might need to buy the actual wheel stud at the dealer in that case. Dont want to make calls until I have a plan.

I do have a 2nd vehicle in the meantime.

[Jdmjunkie]

Just buy ARP wheel studs and go to your local Subaru expert.

[strat61caster]

Yes you'll be fine driving on 4 lugs for a handful of miles, probably avoid the freeway though. 10-25 miles is probably fine.
&
Call both of them up and see who's able to fix it quickly and not break the bank.

[AT-JeffT]

There seems to be a metal incompatibility between the lug studs and the lug nuts. I snapped so many of them I could replace them in less than 20min without power tools. The solution is to VERY lightly apply anti-seize to the threads. Zero snapped studs in many years now for me. And, no the anti-seize won't cause the nuts to loosen. Zero lugs have come loose.

[ZDan]

I got ARP studs soon after I bought the car, as I do a lot of wheel tire changes for track. But kept using factory nuts. Then last year I could feel that one lug nut was "dragging" and didn't want to unscrew, required some force all the way. Replaced lug nuts with parts store "tuner" lugs and that fixed it. Intend to get better lug nuts before 1st track day this year....

Anyway, If I'm you I'd order the short (normal length ) ARP studs and get some known good aftermarket lug nuts (Gorilla is fine I'm sure, or McGard, Muteki, Ray's, Project kics, etc). Or if you replace studs with factory, replace lug nuts as well, maybe with something better.

[NoHaveMSG]

I have never snapped or stripped a stud in dozens and dozens of tire changes.

Make sure stud and lug have no debris on them before installing, I keep a small wire brush in my tire changing kit. No power tools when installing and removing. Inspect the studs before putting the tire on, it will save you a lot of headache. I have seen guys impact their lugs on and I think they are either galling the threads or they pull them at the base of the lugs taper. It is a mf'er of a fix in the field.

[Spuds]

I've found just basic plated lugs from NAPA to be much better than the factory lugs. Haven't had a problem with the ones I used to replace the lugs I broke (and by I, I mean the inspections monkeys that don't know what a torque wrench is) at least.

[Jarvbrz]

Hey guys, I know this might be quite lengthy but I don't know where else to ask about this. So what had happened was I went with an 11mm bolt-on spacers but with the set of wheels I got they don't have an indentation for the stock studs to stay in, I was thinking of getting a 10mm slip on spacer instead (as that is the amount of length I need/want in terms of offset) but from what I was told the most you could run on stock studs is 5mm so I wasn't sure what length to get for extended studs without having to worry about the wheel not sitting flush to the hub and or the wheel not having enough thread for the lugnuts to be held by. Would you guys have any recommendations on what length I should get for the wheel studs? My apologies for such a long message but I would appreciate any help I could get
Thank you!

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Jarvbrz

Hey guys, I know this might be quite lengthy but I don't know where else to ask about this. So what had happened was I went with an 11mm bolt-on spacers but with the set of wheels I got they don't have an indentation for the stock studs to stay in, I was thinking of getting a 10mm slip on spacer instead (as that is the amount of length I need/want in terms of offset) but from what I was told the most you could run on stock studs is 5mm so I wasn't sure what length to get for extended studs without having to worry about the wheel not sitting flush to the hub and or the wheel not having enough thread for the lugnuts to be held by. Would you guys have any recommendations on what length I should get for the wheel studs? My apologies for such a long message but I would appreciate any help I could get
Thank you!

ARP 2.5" studs accomodate up to 15mm.
I run them with 8mm spacers with lots of thread.

[Jarvbrz]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

ARP 2.5" studs accomodate up to 15mm.
I run them with 8mm spacers with lots of thread.

I see ok thank you! I just wanted to make sure I go with the right one instead of automatically going for the longest option

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by wbradley

While swapping my summer wheels on my STI this morning I must have damaged a wheel stud. It cannot be torqued.

Two questions- If I have properly torqued the other 4 bolts as required is it ok to drive to a repair location if is isnt too far and no highway speed?

And, where should I go? The dealer isn't very far but I suppose it depends if this is a big deal to them. Otherwise a private garage is quite a bit farther but he knows Subarus. I might need to buy the actual wheel stud at the dealer in that case. Dont want to make calls until I have a plan.

I do have a 2nd vehicle in the meantime.

Front or rear?
Base brakes or Brembos?

Replacing studs is not that hard if you have the right tools and you can remove the brake rotor.

I just replaced all my studs with ARP 100-7727 and the biggest issue was tightening the top bolts on the front Brembos.

Some data points you might find useful:

• Replace the lug nuts as the old ones are either already damaged, or you might damage them while pulling the new studs. Have some extra lug nuts just in case.
• Replace all studs per corner if you already did the hard part of removing the rotor
• Have some extra studs
• Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer can help
• I used "GEARWRENCH Universal Ball Joint Separator - 3916D" from Amazon to remove the old studs without whacking the hub with a hammer

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Front or rear?
Base brakes or Brembos?

Replacing studs is not that hard if you have the right tools and you can remove the brake rotor.

I just replaced all my studs with ARP 100-7727 and the biggest issue was tightening the top bolts on the front Brembos.

Some data points you might find useful:

• Replace the lug nuts as the old ones are either already damaged, or you might damage them while pulling the new studs. Have some extra lug nuts just in case.
• Replace all studs per corner if you already did the hard part of removing the rotor
• Have some extra studs
• Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer can help
• I used "GEARWRENCH Universal Ball Joint Separator - 3916D" from Amazon to remove the old studs without whacking the hub with a hammer

Last year, I replace my studs with arp units. I used an open lugnut on the old stud and hit it with a medium size hammer. It took only 3-4 medium force blows to remove the stud. IMO: minimal force was imparted to the hub because the studs backed out relatively easily. I installed the new studs with an an impact wrench. No special tool required.

[ThatYeti]

Looking to replace mine but seeing the ARP 100-7727 studs are out of stock, any idea if they replaced them with a newer model?

[ThatYeti]

Originally Posted by ThatYeti

Looking to replace mine but seeing the ARP 100-7727 studs are out of stock, any idea if they replaced them with a newer model?

Confirmed with ARP that these are out of stock until November.