Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by mrntd

Your numbers look like my Edelbrock stock numbers.

Mustang dynos can provide misleading numbers. For comparison to other dynos they should use the SAE correction factor. Also they need to be recalibrated annually and most are not. Put your car on a dynojet to see realistic numbers. No I don’t sell them.

If what I’ve read is accurate and there’s a 10-15% discrepancy in mustang vs dynojet, then it’s 305-318? I’m so bummed about all this to be honest. I got this platform because the carb approved fi options. Edelbrock doesn’t have a 2020 tune. I guess I have three years to figure that out but fuck. Ended up spending almost 40 for this? Nothing makes me feel impotent like squandering my money on my cars.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

Asked the guy at Snail for a conservative tune for longevity. Don’t know if that’s why my numbers are what they are but…

I asked for a conservative tune on 92 octane and hit 246whp and 220ft/lbs on a Dynapack.

What were you expecting?

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

I asked for a conservative tune on 92 octane and hit 246whp and 220ft/lbs on a Dynapack.

What were you expecting?

285-305 w injectors, fp, and e85 was my expectation.

[B T]

Originally Posted by aKaGorganZola

Is there any benefit of going with the t adapter? Like if it's only 11 bucks but I end up with a cleaner looking install that's well worth it for me at least

So, the additional tee adapter lets you reference the brake booster line for the bypass valve instead of the original location. It provides a steadier application of vacuum, is more unlikely to be contaminated with oil mist, and keeps boost from reaching the bypass valve diaphragm. The moment you let off the throttle, the bypass valve will open, which is also likely the time you'll be operating the brakes. The high cost for the tee is just because I haven't found a decent price for the brass version and I only use brass adapters. If you'd like to install it and move it later, its as easy as buying the part on amazon.

3/8"x 1/4"x 3/8" ID Hose, Reducing Tee 3-way

[FrickingReallySlow]

Has anyone changed their motor mounts (either to STI or others) with the Edelbrock SC installed? I'm wondering if there will be issues I need to look out for raising/jacking the engine+SC 2 inches with the additional hoses for intercooler etc. Any helpful tips appreciated

[localhost]

Is the JR dual radiator / oil cooler still the recommended option for an oil cooler with the SC? I've been looking but I haven't found any decent alternatives.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by localhost

Is the JR dual radiator / oil cooler still the recommended option for an oil cooler with the SC? I've been looking but I haven't found any decent alternatives.

I was thinking of getting a Perrin oil cooler as that seemed recommended.

Is anyone running a Perrin OC with the Edelbrock?

[localhost]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

I was thinking of getting a Perrin oil cooler as that seemed recommended.

Is anyone running a Perrin OC with the Edelbrock?

I was thinking about that too, but it sits in front of the Edelbrock LTR which afaik isn't recommended. You'd end up heating up your SC by cooling down the oil. Obviously feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but the design certainly looks like it'd do that. Physically I'm sure it'd fit and work okay - it just seems sub-optimal.

[dpfarr]

I'm of the persuasion that adding another radiator is too much.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by localhost

Is the JR dual radiator / oil cooler still the recommended option for an oil cooler with the SC? I've been looking but I haven't found any decent alternatives.

It's still the easiest option for additional cooling.

[B T]

Originally Posted by localhost

Is the JR dual radiator / oil cooler still the recommended option for an oil cooler with the SC? I've been looking but I haven't found any decent alternatives.

I don't have any experience with this kit, but on one of my other projects I had a dual use radiator. There was a pinhole leak in the barrier between the two and it ended up contaminating both my coolant and transmission fluid. This was a highly reputable custom radiator manufacturer. Just something to be aware of.

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by localhost

Is the JR dual radiator / oil cooler still the recommended option for an oil cooler with the SC? I've been looking but I haven't found any decent alternatives.

That is the Radiator/Oil Cooler that I am running with my Edelbrock. Honestly one of the cleanest installs since it takes the place of the OEM radiator, but adds more function with the added oil cooler.
The Edelbrock Heat Exchanger sits in front.

[Jerr]

6-month post-install retrospective:

Ordered a kit from CSG (Thanks, Mike!) in May and installed end of June. Decided to go with:

-Edelbrock SC with standard pulley
-JR Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler
-Radium Dual Catch can kit
-AEM oil temp, oil pressure digital gauges
-Tomei UEL catless headers
-Tuned on ECUtek by the man himself, Zach

Initial install and tuning was cake.

The good:
Power is plentiful for this chassis and the twin-screw whirring sound is subtle but present. This kit went together like a big lego kit and I'm certain most people could do it easily with the right tools. Gas mileage didn't suffer much and the engine feels smooth across the entire rev-range. I've had zero issues with the supercharger itself. It gets lots of compliments at car shows, the kit is a looker for sure.

The bad/lessons learned:
-The bunny-ears hose clamps suck and in many cases suck to reach. Get lots of various sizes of worm clamps from the auto parts store, they were useful between the SC manifold and firewall, at the inlet and outlet of the surge tank, and at the inlet of the intercooler.
-The surge tank design is not perfect and likes to leak. My first cap for the surge tank liked to spit coolant out freely under pressure, but this is actually a generic part you can get on Amazon: 'Motorad T35 radiator cap'. The tank, however, is an Edelbrock in-house design, Edelbrock part number 51-1550. I had mine replaced and ordered an extra at cost to myself for good measure. You may need worm clamps on the inlet/outlet of the surge tank, it likes to seep out there as well since the bunny-ears clamps aren't quite strong enough. Someone else may be able to recommend a sealant you could use as well.
-The belt you get from Edelbrock can be old in some cases, or just have manufacturer defects. My first belt shred a rib within about 2k miles, but the second belt has been fine since. Head to your local parts store and pick up a Continental multi-v belt of the same size that came with the kit, keep it and a 14mm socket/wrench in the tool kit in your trunk.
-I was a dummy and installed my coolant lines backwards initially that went in/out of the throttle body. When you do this, the coolant line from the front of the TB will "pinch" and not get enough coolant through. You will cook and kill your TB this way, resulting in a lot of strange stuff/stalling/engine power issues/CELs. $400 lesson learned, installed new OEM TB the correct way this time. (the instructions do show the right way to install it, but you have to look very closely)
-You don't need a *dual* catch can kit. Drivers side PCV line is always bone dry with no blowby. You do, however need a single can on the passenger PCV. I did a write up on how to install the full dual kit with the Edelbrock; you'll need a couple PCV hose adapters that aren't included. I'd recommend installing just one of the radium catch cans on the passenger PCV lines but mounting it on the driver's side for easier access (away from battery).
-Finally, even after replacing the throttle body, the car can still stall when idling in gear (clutch depressed) coming to a stop downhill. This has only happened once (yesterday) since the new throttle body install a few k miles ago, and most likely is just a tune bug with the North America ECU version or idle target not set quite high enough for the rotational mass of the supercharger. I'm hoping this doesn't become a long-term issue, but no CELs yet. I've seen several other random posts relating to similar issues, almost all of these were boosted applications.
-You'll probably need a clutch at some point. I can hear mine starting to chatter a bit when disengaged climbing my driveway. This isn't a "bad", as it should be expected, but a lesson learned.

Hopefully this helps someone on the fence about getting the kit. I love it and I think even with the small headaches it was worth it!

[dpfarr]

Noticed this last weekend since we’ve had frost that it takes 2-3 starts to turn over.