Cooling options for FI 86’s, and tips/tricks for other good supporting mods

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AldoRaine

Tomei UEL catless header
Invidia catless non resonated front pipe
TRD catback
K&n intake (irrelevant)
And just tein flex z coils and some cosmis wheels.
No e85, just 93 octane

I’d like to at most just go JRSC C38, Oil cooler, and vents. Aiming for 260-280 whp. I understand the torque will be around 210-230 on that setup as well. I’m very very interested in anyone’s experience with running this much power on the stock clutch. Car has less than 30k miles on it, and I’m trying not to go spending too much money on cooling in case my clutch goes out. As I said it’s my daily so I don’t plan on going nuts with the build just what I need to get it done but always being safe. I do not want to deal with serious engine issues lol.

It would be much easier for me to answer your questions, if you answered mine.

[Infinity]

Does anyone DD with the Jackson radiator/oil-cooler? Do you have issues with the car being "over cooled" and not getting up to proper operating temperatures?


I know many people have this issue when DD'ing with an oil-cooler (even with a thermostatic plate) and they have to block them off with cardboard or something.

[AldoRaine]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

- What's your total budget to do this?

- What fuel(s) are available to you and what will you be using?

- What mods, if any, do you already have? Do you anticipate putting on other powertrain mods, such as a header?

In order to answer these questions
The fuels available to me are just 93 octane, no e85 or anything special
The mods I already have I listed
And I don’t anticipate anymore power train mods beyond the exhaust (catless UEL header and catless front pipe and TRD catback) setup, and supercharger
I will eventually move to a greddy 3” single exhaust
My total budget for parts is 5,000, so 4k for the kit, and 1k for whatever else, possibly an oil cooler/gauges to monitor AFR and temps and pressure etc

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Infinity

Does anyone DD with the Jackson radiator/oil-cooler? Do you have issues with the car being "over cooled" and not getting up to proper operating temperatures?


I know many people have this issue when DD'ing with an oil-cooler (even with a thermostatic plate) and they have to block them off with cardboard or something.

Air to oil can be problematic for a daily. Thermostats bleed a percentage of oil, so even when the thermostat is "closed" it is still open, a bit.

You can fab up a plate to block flow during winter, but again, problematic if you decide to give the car a workout mid drive.

The JR should have the oil at or above coolant temp.

Plus it will help bring up your oil temps from cold.

There are quite a few different water to oil coolers on the market, not just the JR.

As long as your radiator is keeping your temps in check you will not have a issue with overloading your cooling system.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Infinity

Does anyone DD with the Jackson radiator/oil-cooler? Do you have issues with the car being "over cooled" and not getting up to proper operating temperatures?


I know many people have this issue when DD'ing with an oil-cooler (even with a thermostatic plate) and they have to block them off with cardboard or something.

Depends where you live and how long your commute is.
A thermostat will have up to 10% flow while “closed” this is in order to prevent “cold shock” and possibly air pockets. At between 20-30f below full open temp it will begin to open and slowly open more while it heats up until its fully open at whatever the thermostat is rated at. You can easily swap out these thermostats for higher rated ones. This alone should help a lot for those people who have overcooling issues and use a oil radiator block off because they are using 180f thermostats, live in a colder area, and have a short commute. Otherwise it would not really be an issue for most.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Infinity

Does anyone DD with the Jackson radiator/oil-cooler? Do you have issues with the car being "over cooled" and not getting up to proper operating temperatures?


I know many people have this issue when DD'ing with an oil-cooler (even with a thermostatic plate) and they have to block them off with cardboard or something.

I do, as do many others. There is no issue with over-cooling that I am aware of.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AldoRaine

In order to answer these questions
The fuels available to me are just 93 octane, no e85 or anything special
The mods I already have I listed
And I don’t anticipate anymore power train mods beyond the exhaust (catless UEL header and catless front pipe and TRD catback) setup, and supercharger
I will eventually move to a greddy 3” single exhaust
My total budget for parts is 5,000, so 4k for the kit, and 1k for whatever else, possibly an oil cooler/gauges to monitor AFR and temps and pressure etc

My recommendation is to wait for your budget to be significantly larger. The kit + tune alone is already over your budget.

Do it once, and do it right, or you'll be doing it multiple times.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...2&postcount=20

[jflogerzi]

I use the JR dual oil cooler with my SC FRS. California no problems with temps or over cooling. For daily driving and canyon runs you will have solid cooling.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[AldoRaine]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

My recommendation is to wait for your budget to be significantly larger. The kit + tune alone is already over your budget.

Do it once, and do it right, or you'll be doing it multiple times.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...2&postcount=20

I stated 5k for just parts alone, that should be good to cover a decent oil cooler and gauge setup, and the c38 kit, I wasn’t including the tuning/installation, I can spend much more on that. It will be done by one of the best tuning shops in eastern North Carolina I assure you that. And dynotune did right in front of me and if they order everything and install it, then blow it up on the dyno, they cover everything. Including engine failure. The kit and installation and tuning alone will be 6,500. I’m prepared to drop another 1k to 1.5k on a good oil cooler/radiator setup (JR dual rad/oil cooler, or maybe Perrin oil cooler) and gauges etc etc. I’ll probably do a forge motorsports BPV too I’ve heard the stock ones fail occasionally. Assume money isn’t an issue brother, I’m just looking for any assistance on people with more experience with these cars being FI to weigh in. I’m not dying to get it done and rushing. I wanna do it correct and I’m more than patient. Thanks for taking the time to read this novel I typed !! Lol

[86TOYO2k17]

@AldoRaine
If money isn’t an issue then do a custom setup. (Although it will probably be cheaper but still better..)
Setrab oil cooler (largest you can reasonably fit)
Aeroquip hoses and fittings
And mocal thermostat plate with 197F thermostat.
Or improved racing thermo plate with a 212F thermostat.
Mount cooler behind the fog light bezel, open up the fog light bezel to allow airflow (many ways and designs to make it look good with solid flow) this keeps all the radiators/intercoolers de-stacked up front.

Can also combine this setup with the oem style water to oil heat exchanger to speed up warmup, works pretty well.
And further paired with
Mishimoto radiator (or larger radiator of your choosing) and
Mishimoto slim fan-shroud (not really needed but it gives a little more space in-front of engine)

Your temps will warm up reasonably quick and then stay pretty cool.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

- What's your total budget to do this?

- What fuel(s) are available to you and what will you be using?

- What mods, if any, do you already have? Do you anticipate putting on other powertrain mods, such as a header?

Originally Posted by AldoRaine

In order to answer these questions
The fuels available to me are just 93 octane, no e85 or anything special
The mods I already have I listed
And I don’t anticipate anymore power train mods beyond the exhaust (catless UEL header and catless front pipe and TRD catback) setup, and supercharger
I will eventually move to a greddy 3” single exhaust
My total budget for parts is 5,000, so 4k for the kit, and 1k for whatever else, possibly an oil cooler/gauges to monitor AFR and temps and pressure etc

Originally Posted by AldoRaine

I stated 5k for just parts alone, that should be good to cover a decent oil cooler and gauge setup, and the c38 kit, I wasn’t including the tuning/installation, I can spend much more on that. It will be done by one of the best tuning shops in eastern North Carolina I assure you that. And dynotune did right in front of me and if they order everything and install it, then blow it up on the dyno, they cover everything. Including engine failure. The kit and installation and tuning alone will be 6,500. I’m prepared to drop another 1k to 1.5k on a good oil cooler/radiator setup (JR dual rad/oil cooler, or maybe Perrin oil cooler) and gauges etc etc. I’ll probably do a forge motorsports BPV too I’ve heard the stock ones fail occasionally. Assume money isn’t an issue brother, I’m just looking for any assistance on people with more experience with these cars being FI to weigh in. I’m not dying to get it done and rushing. I wanna do it correct and I’m more than patient. Thanks for taking the time to read this novel I typed !! Lol

Did you even read my link? The numbers in it are for *parts alone*.

Originally Posted by AldoRaine

Tomei UEL catless header
Invidia catless non resonated front pipe
TRD catback
K&n intake (irrelevant)
And just tein flex z coils and some cosmis wheels.
No e85, just 93 octane

I’d like to at most just go JRSC C38, Oil cooler, and vents. Aiming for 260-280 whp. I understand the torque will be around 210-230 on that setup as well. I’m very very interested in anyone’s experience with running this much power on the stock clutch. Car has less than 30k miles on it, and I’m trying not to go spending too much money on cooling in case my clutch goes out. As I said it’s my daily so I don’t plan on going nuts with the build just what I need to get it done but always being safe. I do not want to deal with serious engine issues lol.

Just trying to help you buddy. Be real with yourself. Don't tell me one thing, then tell me another when the narrative isn't conducive to what you want to hear.

Whether you go WOT in your car, or I go WOT in your car, your car will produce the same output and the same heat. Whether it's a highway pull, a drag strip pull, or a pull on a straight on a road coarse, the heat output is not changing.