Help with 16mm eccentric camber bolt

[drift86]

Looking for some help with this as I am not sure which way the cam lobe and washer tab should be pointing. It's pretty confusing!

I'm trying to fit this to the upper hole on the front strut for maximum negative camber.

According to these instructions http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/ins...ides/Z201A.pdf, the cam should be pointing towards the wheel and the washer tab towards the engine.

Is that correct? Or should we be doing it the opposite way as it seems one side of the strut has a smaller hole and the position of the bolt is fixed when a 16mm bolt is used? (It fills the entire hole)

[wparsons]

The picture in the instructions is clear and correct.

Regardless of cam and washer tab location, IIRC the bolt goes in from the back and points forward on mine. I installed it to match the orientation of the factory bottom bolt.

[Ubersuber]

To add some clarity to a perhaps less than helpful post which amounts to "read the instructions" I think you'll find that whiteline has done the work of figuring this out for you.

You are correct in your understanding of how to get negative camber.

That tabbed washer indicates where the cam on the bolt is so that you turn the bolt with the tab until it is pointing as in the diagram. When the tab points towards the strut you are adding negative camber and when the tab points towards the hub you are adding positive camber.

The tab indicates 90 degrees to the position of the cam on the eccentric bolt.

Camber bolts work by fitting a smaller diameter bolt into the bolthole (and should be a higher specification bolt as a result to take the same loads with less metal). There is a cam shaped onto one side of the bolt. As this is turned in the round bolthole the bolt is pushed off center which pushes the bolthole in the hub off centre relative to the bolthole in the strut body.

The exact placement of the eccentric cam determines by how much the bolthole in the top mount of the hub moves. You want the cam facing out towards the hub to push the hub bolthole inwards to give negative camber. The washer tab is only there to indicate how far you have turned the cam.

[wparsons]

Way to take a simple one sentence answer and make it a full page and much more confusing in the process. Bravo.

[drift86]

Thanks for the responses. But I still think we are missing something.

The bolt passes through 3 holes. Let's call them A (towards back of car), B (on the part connected to wheel hub) and C (towards front of car).

A and B are 16mm and C is 14mm on our cars.

It's different to the instructions as there is no offset at C, the bolt fills the entire exit hole. That's why I think I need to point the cam lobe towards the engine to shift B inwards as essentially A and C are fixed.

Am I making sense?

[wparsons]

What you're saying makes sense, but it's backwards. It doesn't matter what the diameter of the hole in the strut is, you need to shift the top of the knuckle ("B") towards the engine.

You're not trying to offset the bolt in the strut, you're offsetting the knuckle from the strut.

Just for clarity, there's no way that the hole on one side of the strut is only 14mm, the stock upper bolt is 16mm and it fits through.

I have the whiteline bolts in my car, and had no problem installing as per the diagram in the instructions, so it can fit. When I took it in for an alignment I was at about -1.5* on each side. With the upper hole slotted a bit I'm now sitting at -2* though.

The biggest pain I had was tightening the lock nut down, so glad I have air tools instead of having to fight it the whole way.

[Wayno]

@wparsons The front hole is 14mm and the rear hole is 16mm. The bolt is tapered.

@drift86 I used the 16mm kit (14mm bolt, 16mm lobe) without the washers. If you try to jam the washer in there it will force the bolt to be at an angle, which will ruin your day. Gives the same result as crash bolt because you're only offsetting by 1mm - about 1.2*.

You can use a 14mm kit (12mm bolt, 14mm lobe) in the lower hole with the washer instead if you want. Should give max 1.8*.

[brz7400]

Seems to me like they want to set up as fig 2 to give you a zero change starting point.
Then that washer position is fixed by the spikes biting into strut during initial tightening.

Now you can add negative camber by following steps 6 and 7, where rotating just the bolt (while washer tab remains fixed) adds negative camber, with max camber achieved when cam is fully pointed towards strut.

[wparsons]

If the tabbed washer is binding or jamming, it's because you have it oriented against the lobes incorrectly. The whole point of that washer is to take up the space on the side opposite the big end of the lobe so things won't slide around. If you turn the bolt, you also need to spin the tabbed washer with it.

[D_Thissen]

This might help.. Its passenger side of my car, the tab is facing the inside of the car. I think im getting around -1.0/-1.2 camber

[D_Thissen]

Originally Posted by wparsons

The biggest pain I had was tightening the lock nut down, so glad I have air tools instead of having to fight it the whole way.

This! I did it by hand, my god what a PITA!!