Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by brzaapi

My install isn't complete yet, so I wont say this works. But, I don't see why there will be any problems. If a problem arises while driving I will come back and update.

First clocking the main power connector pin/stud on the 2017MY Alternator works great. Pics below show the before and after.

The smaller connection is a bit trickier and there are many ways to handle it. You will need to make your own single wire pigtail essentially. I soldered a small pin on one end and a crimp/sleeve connector on the other. Bend and manipulate your pigtail till it fits proper. We placed the SC on the car 3 times for small adjustments, I was being picky, then on the 4th try the SC stayed on the block.

The only issue that I see, is that the small black connector on the alternator (see pic below circle in red) must be shaved. So, what I am saying is....even without the cables installed, the EBSC and the OEM alternator will touch, leaving no room for the OEM cable. So, you will have trim the connector on the alternator. But you can do this in a way that does not compromise the use of the connector should you wish to remove the SC.

My pics don't show this, but my small red pigtail wire is now secured and cover with a hard corrugated plastic sheath. The pics were taken right after install, and quickly, so I could use my remaining hour of "kitchen pass" and get more work done.

But, from what I can see....you can fairly easily make the EBSC work with a 2017 car. Hopefully edelbrock will have a more elegant solution in the future. Another reason not to damage your OEM connectors just yet.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1493726228

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1493726228

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1493726228

Is there a fix for this? I’m at this point where the alternator is causing that interference. I’ve got the top bolt cocked but that other clip is the unsolved issue at the moment.

[CallmeDave]

Originally Posted by toast

Well shit.

For the last five months post SC install the car has been getting more annoying to drive. The last month was a new clutch install so part of it felt like me not having control over the stiffer pedal. Got real bad a couple weeks back but I managed to capture the issue in a log when the signal from the MAP when batshit. I disconnected the MAP and found a loose connection in the back of the plug; after reinstall things got much better (car was almost undriveable when cold) but there were still odd stumbles.

Removed the Dbox today. Night and day difference. Sounds better, smoother, when clutching in at a stop the rpms drop to 900 and stay there instead of dropping to 700 and recovering. Since I suspected the wiring to the MAP I ordered a replacement pigtail MAP connector to wire into my Dbox harness. See any difference?



The pins on the original connector are so stretched out you can barely see them. This must have caused constant intermittent contact with the MAP pins. I haven't put the Dbox back in the car yet but this really seems like a likely source of problems.

TLDR: if you do a fresh install I would install without the Dbox first to get a feel for everything and then add the Dbox. Any worse performance, check the connectors.

Mr Toast you beautiful bastard! Thanks so much for that tip. Fixed a leaking bypass valve and have been plagued with other issues. And yup the Douche box was the problem. Omg so relieved. Would love to get my $350 back.

[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

Is there a fix for this? I’m at this point where the alternator is causing that interference. I’ve got the top bolt cocked but that other clip is the unsolved issue at the moment.

I had a similar problem when installing EBSC on my 20 BRZ, as I didn’t connect that clip before I put the intake/sc on. I ended up removing the intake bolts on the passenger side, and loosened the bolts on the driver side leaving the threads engaged, to try and reduce movement so the intake gaskets wouldn’t get pinched/shredded while I lifted the passenger side of the intake so I could apply that clip on the alternator. You can see the pic that the regular wire/clip clears the sc, barely. If I want to remove the alternator for any reason, I’m resigned to the fact that I’ll need to basically remove the intake.

Update: for some reason the picture is upside down.

[CSG Mike]

At this time, there's zero need for a Dbox, at least with CSG tunes.

[dpfarr]

I think it’s weird that another 2020 can clear that but mine is crushing it.

[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

I think it’s weird that another 2020 can clear that but mine is crushing it.

Weird. I wonder if the location of the lead on the alternator is in a slightly different location between years.

[Hurricane Nate]

Or maybe they had to use a slightly different alternator on some cars during assembly? I dunno.

[Jerr]

Hey all,

For anyone that installed their Edelbrock kit recently and is getting idle stall, low/jumpy/climbing idle, or CEL codes P2119, C1241, P0171 or any mix of these, shortly after install or a while after install:

I misread install directions like a dummy. P2119 pointed to the exact issue but did not appear until several days of troubleshooting. There are two coolant hoses that go into the throttle body, and it is possible to install them backwards (inlet on outlet barb). Doing this will result in a tight "kink" at the barb pointing forward in the engine bay, and eventually lead to errors and heat death of the small motor/sensor in your throttle body assembly.

So far correcting the issue with the coolant lines and cleaning the TB has given me the best result and car appears normal, for now. If further issues arise I'll replace the part ($420 from Toyota).

Just thought I'd throw this out there for search assistance, I'm sure I'm not the last person ever that will get these flipped accidentally.

[Mr_Eyo]

I have the Delicious flex fuel kit V2 with the d-box functionality integrated into a single box. Anyone know if the d-box functionality can be removed/disabled while retaining the flex fuel sensor with this unit?

[B T]

Originally Posted by CallmeDave

Mr Toast you beautiful bastard! Thanks so much for that tip. Fixed a leaking bypass valve and have been plagued with other issues. And yup the Douche box was the problem. Omg so relieved. Would love to get my $350 back.

If you want to get rid of the D-Box (I did), Zach Tucker at CSG has some remote MAP sensor adapters that can smooth out the pressure wave.

[Pete]

TFW you read through 300 pages of supercharger information and get excited about how good it is, then remember you still have months to go before you even pick up the car....and then will have to wait who knows how long after that before Edelbrock makes a supercharger for the new models. IF Edelbrock even makes a supercharger for the new cars.

@CSG Mike I can't wait to see what you guys do with the new platform. Seriously. Wish you had a shop in the Houston area.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Pete

TFW you read through 300 pages of supercharger information and get excited about how good it is, then remember you still have months to go before you even pick up the car....and then will have to wait who knows how long after that before Edelbrock makes a supercharger for the new models. IF Edelbrock even makes a supercharger for the new cars.

@CSG Mike I can't wait to see what you guys do with the new platform. Seriously. Wish you had a shop in the Houston area.

Calibration work doesn't need an in-person presence with modern setups in most cases!

If you need work done, happy to make referrals to a local-ish shop!

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by Pete

TFW you read through 300 pages of supercharger information and get excited about how good it is, then remember you still have months to go before you even pick up the car....and then will have to wait who knows how long after that before Edelbrock makes a supercharger for the new models. IF Edelbrock even makes a supercharger for the new cars.

@CSG Mike I can't wait to see what you guys do with the new platform. Seriously. Wish you had a shop in the Houston area.

I look at your signature and laugh. I owned a 2013 FRS for 7 years. Then in July of 2021, I bought a 2014 BRZ that had an Edelbrock kit already professionally installed on it for $17k

I love this platform!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Calibration work doesn't need an in-person presence with modern setups in most cases!

If you need work done, happy to make referrals to a local-ish shop!

I'll message you when the time comes, definitely would value a referral. Not going to do anything right off the bat except wheels, but eventually planning to do FI, headers, maybe suspension and supporting mods as necessary. We will see what the aftermarket comes up with.

I am certainly hoping Edelbrock comes out with a kit for the new car. And yeah I'll get my tunes through you guys for sure.