SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[HawkeyeMike]

Hey everyone - newcomer here. For context, I've been AX'ing for about 5 years, mainly in higher HP, RWD cars. I just bought a '22 BRZ and will be finishing the year with it in DS. As for my skill level, to give you an idea, I usually finish in the top few in PAX at local events, however in the 2 Nationals I've attended I finished in the bottom half of my class. My goal with this car will be to get it sorted this year and finish top half of DS at '23 Nats.

I hoping to get your thoughts on setting this car up. There's alot of info in this thread (I've read through the recent posts starting in mid-2021), but I thought I'd just ask if a few of you would be willing summarize what you've done to the car from stock.

I'm a bit new to the platform, so in addition to your summaries, I have two questions: First, if any of you are in the first gen cars - how much of your setup still makes sense for the 2022 model? Are we starting from scratch with it, or are the cars similar enough that setups would translate well?
Second - regarding the sway bar talk in this thread, you are all referring to front bars, not rear correct? If true, that seems strange to me, because I keep reading that these cars have natural understeer. The cars I'm used to driving are more prone to oversteer and common convention is that a stiffer front bar will reduce oversteer. But...if these cars understeer to begin with...why have a stiffer front bar? Wouldn't you want to increase oversteer - with a stiffer rear bar?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
Mike

[strat61caster]

1. Same chassis, same theories apply, likely end up in slightly different places but starting points are good.

2. Front end is too soft, lots of body roll reduces grip via camber loss and uneven weight transfer, reduce front roll + balance stiffness across the car = improved grip
Also better transient response in slaloms/offsets/etc. You can play with rear toe and tire pressures to get desired amounts of rotation. Yes in Street class trim it will still be pushy in steady state, the only way to get around that would be to remove grip in the rear (stiffer rear bar, shock settings, tire pressures) which makes you slower overall then the stiffer front bar.

[HawkeyeMike]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

, the only way to get around that would be to remove grip in the rear (stiffer rear bar, shock settings, tire pressures) which makes you slower overall then the stiffer front bar.

OK thanks - that makes sense.

What is your (or anyone else's) overall setup? My current thoughts are:

- 225 RT660s (start with 36R 34F)
- Front bar (which is best?)
- Max front and rear camber (using crash bolts on front)
- What are best toe settings? (in previous cars I like 0 toe in front, overall 3/16"-ish toe-in for rear)
- Is Koni the only aftermarket shock option (which Koni's, by the way?)
- Are people changing brake pads and/or rotors? (which brand? In past, I like EBC Bluestuff)
- All the legal weight reduction tricks

What else?

Thanks!
Mike

[MacSpeed]

I'm currently jumping to STR but my DS setup was:

-245 RT660s on RPF1
-Karcepts front bar on 2nd hole both sides
-Max camber F of 1.1L and 1.5R and rear of 1.5 i think? there's no adjustment, just what it is with crash bolts
-Toe; zero front, 1/16 in total rear
-I had MCS's but I've seen someone on facebook making small batches of perches to fit the Konis
-Ferodo DS2500 pads
-AEM Dry intake Filter and FT86MS muffled track pipe

there really isnt anything else you can do weight reduction wise. Car weighted 2765 with 1/3 of a tank of fuel and OEM muffler. Track pipe cut about 15# and if you were to use yokes over the falkens that'll save another 20# but they are not as camber lacking friendly. My cars also a limited which I think is a 15# difference to the base cars if I remember right.

[HawkeyeMike]

Originally Posted by MacSpeed

I'm currently jumping to STR but my DS setup was:

-245 RT660s on RPF1
-Karcepts front bar on 2nd hole both sides
-Max camber F of 1.1L and 1.5R and rear of 1.5 i think? there's no adjustment, just what it is with crash bolts
-Toe; zero front, 1/16 in total rear
-I had MCS's but I've seen someone on facebook making small batches of perches to fit the Konis
-Ferodo DS2500 pads
-AEM Dry intake Filter and FT86MS muffled track pipe

there really isnt anything else you can do weight reduction wise. Car weighted 2765 with 1/3 of a tank of fuel and OEM muffler. Track pipe cut about 15# and if you were to use yokes over the falkens that'll save another 20# but they are not as camber lacking friendly. My cars also a limited which I think is a 15# difference to the base cars if I remember right.

Thanks! This all helps alot. Are you happy with the Ferodo pads? Did you change over your brake fluid? I typically change over to Motul660?

Thanks,
Mike

[strat61caster]

Only additional comment is that if you don’t want to spend money on Karcepts then the Perrin 19mm or whiteline 20mm seem to be a good fit for DS trim.

[MacSpeed]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeMike

Thanks! This all helps alot. Are you happy with the Ferodo pads? Did you change over your brake fluid? I typically change over to Motul660?

Thanks,
Mike

I did. I put SRF in it and Motul 300 in the trans/diff

[HawkeyeMike]

For these sway bars, the Perrin one for example doesn't advertise on their website which years the sway bar will fit. Did the 2nd gen cars change? Or can I assume it will fit my 2022? Thanks!

[otter]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeMike

For these sway bars, the Perrin one for example doesn't advertise on their website which years the sway bar will fit. Did the 2nd gen cars change? Or can I assume it will fit my 2022? Thanks!

Front bars are identical between the two generations.

[kraftyone]

My fastest run of the day

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by kraftyone

My fastest run of the day

Nice to meet you! I was annoyed the timing didn't quite work out so we could ride together, but oh well.


Over the whole run, you did well. You struggled with getting a little late in all of the same spots I did, just gotta always focus on backsiding to set up the next element. Still gotta get the aggression up a bit more, but you nailed the big offset and walloms into the finish!

[kraftyone]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Nice to meet you! I was annoyed the timing didn't quite work out so we could ride together, but oh well.


Over the whole run, you did well. You struggled with getting a little late in all of the same spots I did, just gotta always focus on backsiding to set up the next element. Still gotta get the aggression up a bit more, but you nailed the big offset and walloms into the finish!

It was nice meeting you and Amy as well. I also wish it would have worked out for me to catch a ride with you. Maybe next time. After watching your video from Sunday I understand now what you mean about being more aggressive. Will have to put it in the forefront of my mind d next event.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[otter]

Sooooo who are the lucky few testing out the revised Karcepts bar in a couple weeks?

[Desertnate]

Thinking back over the event I just ran this weekend and reviewing the more recent posts I noticed this.

Originally Posted by MacSpeed

I'm currently jumping to STR but my DS setup was:

-245 RT660s on RPF1

You were able to get 245's on a 7.5" wheel? I'm going to gradually upgrade my car to stay in DS and the first step for next season is wheels/tires. However I was looking to a 17x7.5 wheel with 225 RT660's. Didn't think anything wider would be a good idea on a wheel of that width in addition to any potential rubbing issues.

On a side note, the OEM pilot sports seem to get really greasy after 2~3 runs in 95F-ish heat.