STX Rules and Setup Questions

[xwd]

Originally Posted by sifl

Hi. I talk with George, Christopher, etc... frequently. I also like to talk tech at events, as well as driving lines. What I find is that I don't seem to make sense to most people, though.
Bart thinks I'm slightly "off", people in my class think I'm kidding, but I'm really not.

Hey Peter are you the same sifl from Milwaukee on NASIOC?

One thing I learned from running a couple of the last events with top tier guys is the setups are pretty standard at this point, nobody is doing anything really exotic. Your setup is pretty much the same as everyone else, including mine. I still have the stock sway bar and end links though. I think one of the faster guys at Dixie was running no rear sway bar but I didn't get a chance to talk to him. That site IMHO doesn't have a lot of grip so I could see how it may have helped in the faster transition elements.

I do want to lower my car a little bit more, maybe 1/4" or so front and rear which I think would also help a little.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Thoughts on budget setup. I'm removing my Ground Control setup (375/425) and 18x9.5 RPF1s to put a compromise setup on the car. It's my daily driver and I don't have the cash to do track days frequently like I used to, but would like to do a few per year, but start Auto-Xing as well.

I'll be buying some 17x9s and 245/40 in a sticky street tire. LCAs and a couple other goodies.

So I'm waiting to hear back from Odi at Feal to build me a custom setup vs his OTS.

What do you guys think about something like 7k/7k with a 22mm Whiteline bar as a starting point?

[jbailey8748]

Sounds good but the wrong tires will break the best setup

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Thoughts on budget setup. I'm removing my Ground Control setup (375/425) and 18x9.5 RPF1s to put a compromise setup on the car. It's my daily driver and I don't have the cash to do track days frequently like I used to, but would like to do a few per year, but start Auto-Xing as well.

I'll be buying some 17x9s and 245/40 in a sticky street tire. LCAs and a couple other goodies.

So I'm waiting to hear back from Odi at Feal to build me a custom setup vs his OTS.

What do you guys think about something like 7k/7k with a 22mm Whiteline bar as a starting point?

Bridgestone is doing a $70 rebate through April, so now would be a good time to get some RE-71R's. For Autocross, a 20mm Whiteline bar might be a better choice with those spring rates. The 22mm is probably overkill.

[swarb]

@OkieSnuffBox I have a set of the feal 441's at 7k/7k. Mine were not re-vavled, they just swapped the springs. For me, there seems to be enough range of adjustment in the rear.
I am also looking for a front adjustable sway bar.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by jbailey8748

Sounds good but the wrong tires will break the best setup

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I have plenty of experience on track, 2 and 4 wheels, but I have never auto-x'd. So I'm not particularly worried. Any of the 200TW tires are going to be far above my skill level for a few years in this setting.

Originally Posted by smg1138

Bridgestone is doing a $70 rebate through April, so now would be a good time to get some RE-71R's. For Autocross, a 20mm Whiteline bar might be a better choice with those spring rates. The 22mm is probably overkill.

Hmmmm, may have to go ahead and purchase tires early!

Originally Posted by swarb

@OkieSnuffBox I have a set of the feal 441's at 7k/7k. Mine were not re-vavled, they just swapped the springs. For me, there seems to be enough range of adjustment in the rear.
I am also looking for a front adjustable sway bar.

How do they ride on the street? Do you notice a big difference in the settings, ie, can you soften them up for the street and tighten them back down for the parking lot?

I've heard lots of good things about what Odi does, that's why I'm willing to give them a shot.

How much camber were you able to get up front with the plates? And what ride height are you set at?


Seems like 5" to pinch weld front and 1/8-1/4 higher in the rear is a good starting spot?

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by swarb

@OkieSnuffBox I have a set of the feal 441's at 7k/7k. Mine were not re-vavled, they just swapped the springs. For me, there seems to be enough range of adjustment in the rear.
I am also looking for a front adjustable sway bar.

Really? I'm on the OTS 7k/6k set-up and feel like the ride is the best 3 clicks from max in the rear so never though it would be able to take more spring. Whats your settings for non-race use?

[OkieSnuffBox]

Do you have track or AutoX experience?

Driven on fancy suspension? I've had everything from Ground Control, To Flyin Miata VMAX, to ASTs on track cars.

So I'm not trying to be a cock, just curious about your frame of reference?

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Do you have track or AutoX experience?

Driven on fancy suspension? I've had everything from Ground Control, To Flyin Miata VMAX, to ASTs on track cars.

So I'm not trying to be a cock, just curious about your frame of reference?

Me?

I so far autox a couple times a year for fun only. Slowly building the car to STX and will run full seasons starting next year. The only other coils I have driven are Fortune 510s on this car and BCs on my WRX and then springs on my twin or others (RCE, Mann Engineering, and Eibach Sportlines).

So far that reference is build around my very limited understanding of dampers and daily driving. With the dampers set softer it was much more bouncy. Maybe this was due to being DD conditions vs race but I thought it it felt better suited stiffer that running a stiffer spring would mean I would turn the damper stiffness up as well to match and run out of adjustment. I haven't hit an autox since getting the coils nor I have tried softer settings on mountain drives to try and see a difference.

[sifl]

Originally Posted by xwd

Hey Peter are you the same sifl from Milwaukee on NASIOC?

One thing I learned from running a couple of the last events with top tier guys is the setups are pretty standard at this point, nobody is doing anything really exotic. Your setup is pretty much the same as everyone else, including mine. I still have the stock sway bar and end links though. I think one of the faster guys at Dixie was running no rear sway bar but I didn't get a chance to talk to him. That site IMHO doesn't have a lot of grip so I could see how it may have helped in the faster transition elements.

I do want to lower my car a little bit more, maybe 1/4" or so front and rear which I think would also help a little.

Yeah, I'm the same sifl as on NASIOC. I still occasionally catch up on what's going on there.

I've had some sense talked into me about caster. I'm going to focus on keeping my static camber high, and I'll be switching to RE-71Rs as soon as feasible. The version two RS-3s I ran the majority of last season (last year's tires last year, as someone else put it) may have misled me into thinking I had enough camber as I wasn't getting tons of body roll. I switched to using the Rival S in my last two events, and it was a big difference.

I ran one event in my silver STI this year with the RE-71Rs which was astounding in grip, and though I can't make a direct comparison to the BRZ with the Rival S, from what I hear the RE-71Rs on the BRZ will be grippier than the Rival S. With my BRZ RCEs with the 400/400 spring rates, I think switching to the RE-71Rs will require the higher camber.

It's been suggested that I try running one heat without the rear sway bar at all to see the difference on the same surface and course setup. It's something I'm considering just to have a direct observation.

[xwd]

Ah, this is Phil (dwx on NASIOC) who used to organize some of the meets way back then. I may try to come up there and run an event over the July 4th weekend.

The RE71 and Rival S are not too far from each other but the RE71 has more lateral grip and is definitely better on our cars. The Rival S has more longitudinal grip so can be better on the higher HP RWD cars. The RE71s do not really require more camber than the Rival S, everyone is basically at around -3 front and -2 rear.

[nisti]

Question for those using the SPC front camber bolts.
I naively(?) installed the front SPC bolts precisely according to their instructions.
According to the instructions, the SPC bolts go in the lower hole.

After install, camber appeared to not change at all.
So since then, I have referred to the internet, and am now reading that many either:

1. Install the SPC bolt in the top hole.
2. Install the SPC bolt in the bottom hole, then swap the oem lower bolt to the top hole.

What has everyone else done?
Pretty sure I can't achieve -1.75 front camber according to SPC's instructions.

[DocWalt]

So, wtf is going on with my car? The ECU is just cutting throttle when I hit the limiter sometimes, like at 0:36. I was foot flat to the floor and it was just coasting along. It did it again immediately before the finish, as well as other short sequences during the run.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WPlxlNtvqU[/ame]

[cjd]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

So, wtf is going on with my car? The ECU is just cutting throttle when I hit the limiter sometimes, like at 0:36. I was foot flat to the floor and it was just coasting along. It did it again immediately before the finish, as well as other short sequences during the run.

That seems to be closer to the stock behavior (at least, that's my memory of how stock worked.) You sure the tune you're running has a soft limit?