Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Bramick]

You know my vote Weds!

[ModBargains.com]

300+ pages later and he is still responding... incredible - well done!

[Kuri]

@CSGMike

Thanks guys for the fast shipping for my XP10s made it in time for my MSR-H. Still learning the pad, came from Cobalt XR2 compound before hand on stock calipers

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Kuri

@CSGMike

Thanks guys for the fast shipping for my XP10s made it in time for my MSR-H. Still learning the pad, came from Cobalt XR2 compound before hand on stock calipers

any thoughts on the compound differences? Feel, bite, modulation, etc.

[kch]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

any thoughts on the compound differences? Feel, bite, modulation, etc.

I'm in the exact situation as above -- stock w/ XR2 changed to AP + XP10. Still running XR2s in the rear. Initial bite seems softer with the XP10s, and requires more pedal pressure to get the same sort of stopping power. I'm not sure if that's the pads or the AP kit. Modulation I feel is about even between the two pads.

I was spoiled by the XR2s not really needing to be bedded in. Sure, they were better when bedded, but I could go out in the morning for a warmup session and they'd be fine. The XP10s are near useless for the first few applications. That's a minor issue, though.

I'm not experienced enough to give more specific feedback. Overall, though, they're working out great. I kind of like having a more aggressive pad in the rear. It feels like I can brake late, trail brake some, and get some good rotation by really throwing it into a corner. That could be my imagination, though.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

I'm in the exact situation as above -- stock w/ XR2 changed to AP + XP10. Still running XR2s in the rear. Initial bite seems softer with the XP10s, and requires more pedal pressure to get the same sort of stopping power. I'm not sure if that's the pads or the AP kit. Modulation I feel is about even between the two pads.

I was spoiled by the XR2s not really needing to be bedded in. Sure, they were better when bedded, but I could go out in the morning for a warmup session and they'd be fine. The XP10s are near useless for the first few applications. That's a minor issue, though.

I'm not experienced enough to give more specific feedback. Overall, though, they're working out great. I kind of like having a more aggressive pad in the rear. It feels like I can brake late, trail brake some, and get some good rotation by really throwing it into a corner. That could be my imagination, though.

Dead on. That's the pad, not your AP kit. The Carbotechs are more compressible, but that's why I like to recommend them to beginners; it's a much easier transition from street pad to Carbotech, than from Street pad to sintered metal race pad.

[kch]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Dead on. That's the pad, not your AP kit. The Carbotechs are more compressible, but that's why I like to recommend them to beginners; it's a much easier transition from street pad to Carbotech, than from Street pad to sintered metal race pad.

Quick question. Do I need to be concerned about the slight lip that my inner front pads are developing? I swap them inside/outside between events. But last time, when I removed the inner pad, the lip was a good chunk of pad material and just fell off.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

Quick question. Do I need to be concerned about the slight lip that my inner front pads are developing? I swap them inside/outside between events. But last time, when I removed the inner pad, the lip was a good chunk of pad material and just fell off.

Not particularly, but you can take a file and add a chamfer to prevent it from happening.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by kch

Quick question. Do I need to be concerned about the slight lip that my inner front pads are developing? I swap them inside/outside between events. But last time, when I removed the inner pad, the lip was a good chunk of pad material and just fell off.

AP Sprint and G-Loc R12 - I keep using pads in the same locations. Swapping caused a bit of uneven rotor wear though no impact on performance. Filing off the inside radius edge on the inner pads helps a little with brake squeal though it's temporary and not necessary. Most of the lip will crumble away as pad gets used up.

[brzest]

Yes another tire question, but one I have not been able to get an answer to..

Looking for a track tire for next season, since prices/availability seems to be very different in Europe (vs. the US), I'd like some feedback with those options.
I usually do about 10-15 minute sessions, ideally looking for a tire with the most possible grip, but also don't want them going off, with half the tread left.

Basically I've come up with 3 options:

1. Toyo R888R (costs about 230 euros in stock size), alot of my friends are using them with good results, they claim grip lasts even when thread is basically gone.

2. Yokohama A048 (roughly 270 euros in stock size), hear conflicting stories about them loosing grip suddenly, when they still have plenty of tread.

3. Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (roughly 160 euros in stock size). Probably less grip / more of a street tire than the first two? Also hear different stories about how they grip when not new anymore.

I just checked tirerack and was amazed at the prices in the US, the cup2's are more than double, what they are here, and R888R's are basically half of what they are here...

[MaximeT]

Originally Posted by brzest

Yes another tire question, but one I have not been able to get an answer to..

Looking for a track tire for next season, since prices/availability seems to be very different in Europe (vs. the US), I'd like some feedback with those options.
I usually do about 10-15 minute sessions, ideally looking for a tire with the most possible grip, but also don't want them going off, with half the tread left.

Basically I've come up with 3 options:

1. Toyo R888R (costs about 230 euros in stock size), alot of my friends are using them with good results, they claim grip lasts even when thread is basically gone.

2. Yokohama A048 (roughly 270 euros in stock size), hear conflicting stories about them loosing grip suddenly, when they still have plenty of tread.

3. Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (roughly 160 euros in stock size). Probably less grip / more of a street tire than the first two? Also hear different stories about how they grip when not new anymore.

I just checked tirerack and was amazed at the prices in the US, the cup2's are more than double, what they are here, and R888R's are basically half of what they are here...

The cup 2 is the best tire. Much faster than the a048.

R888R is new and lack feedback so far. Toyo are generally not as good as others. So you need to pay much less for them.

A048 is much too old now. Even if it works fine. You can get 10 track days out of it. But the last 3 will be much lower grip.

You can use cup 2 now then try a052 next year when available.

I plan to try a005 soon , then try a052.
I'm on ado8r now to set base lap times. They last forever and work in the rain.
They are obviously much slower than semi slicks.

This is me on very old a048. It needs a lot of steering wheel work.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by brzest

Yes another tire question, but one I have not been able to get an answer to..

Looking for a track tire for next season, since prices/availability seems to be very different in Europe (vs. the US), I'd like some feedback with those options.
I usually do about 10-15 minute sessions, ideally looking for a tire with the most possible grip, but also don't want them going off, with half the tread left.

Basically I've come up with 3 options:

1. Toyo R888R (costs about 230 euros in stock size), alot of my friends are using them with good results, they claim grip lasts even when thread is basically gone.

2. Yokohama A048 (roughly 270 euros in stock size), hear conflicting stories about them loosing grip suddenly, when they still have plenty of tread.

3. Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (roughly 160 euros in stock size). Probably less grip / more of a street tire than the first two? Also hear different stories about how they grip when not new anymore.

I just checked tirerack and was amazed at the prices in the US, the cup2's are more than double, what they are here, and R888R's are basically half of what they are here...

At the price the sport cup 2 are available there I think there isnt even a discussion here. They are supposed to grip more than the other two options to begin with (dont know about tire life).

[DocWalt]

Cup 2's for sure, out of that bunch, especially for that price. FWIW, I don't find the Cup 2's to be extremely grippy, they are "only" 180TW after all, but they'll hold up well and they're much nicer to drive than the old R888, IMO. I've not driven the R888R though, so I have no idea how it compares.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Cup 2's for sure, out of that bunch, especially for that price. FWIW, I don't find the Cup 2's to be extremely grippy, they are "only" 180TW after all, but they'll hold up well and they're much nicer to drive than the old R888, IMO. I've not driven the R888R though, so I have no idea how it compares.

Wow, 17" sizes are horribly limited. 215 or 255 only... and $350/ea at that! Pass.

Have you guys looked at the Rival S's? Half the price and can pull triple duty (track/ax/street). I'd say Kumho XS for 180tw but it looks like those have gone the way of the buffalo.
For shorter sessions, the RE71-R's have been making a good name for themselves. No real data on 30+minute sessions though.