Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Pat]

It looks like you're seeing some of the same things I experienced. Check out my other post here.
I would align the car with the camber plates in the middle setting to be halfway between what you want on the street and what you want on the track. You may want to build in a little headroom for more camber than what you think you'll need at the track. Maybe max around 3.7, give or take a couple tenths.
Also, check out this post and this post.

Align your cars with the camber bolts. Then, understand what the settings are for each mark on your camber plates so you can adjust them as needed at the track. This will likely require knowing how much each mark of adjustment on the camber plate indicates.

[ZionsWrath]

Don't need a street setting as right now I don't drive it on the street enough to matter. And when I do it's is either to the track or driving for fun. But I think I should get a pyrometer and test different notches on the plates per those posts.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

At least with the Carbotechs the pad starts getting cracks and the edges of the pad start to crumble off when they get really hot. I never had any fade, but these pads were likely right on the edge of their thermal threshold. It's a little tough to tell in the pic, but the upper left corner crumbled off and there's cracks in the pad material all over the place. XP10s with stock tires, FWIW. It also destroyed the caliper boots, obviously.

I'm making the decision to do an event on XP12s with RE-71R's, so I guess I'll find out if I need a BBK

This happened(s) (but worse) to my pmu club racers, they started to get crumbly, I just thought it was par for the course.

[Toyarzee]

Originally Posted by redlined600

This happened(s) (but worse) to my pmu club racers, they started to get crumbly, I just thought it was par for the course.

Same for my PMU CR's... crumbling on outside edges of pad. Is it only when chunks start in the middle of the pad that it is considered compromised and needs replacement?

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by redlined600

This happened(s) (but worse) to my pmu club racers, they started to get crumbly, I just thought it was par for the course.

It is pretty normal for all track pads, I just don't really have experience with track pads other than Carbotechs so I spoke from what I know. FWIW I've never had a desire to change pads, the XP series Carbotechs take tons of abuse and have never given me a problem. I'll still use them on the AP kit

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Here is the wear on my RE11A that I just replaced with AD08R.

Do you think I need more negative camber? That is my impression from the wear. It is relatively even on the tires with more on the outer than inner. Over the 4 tires the wear isn't as even as possible but I rotated as best I could. The bottom tire has less overall wear because I had to replaced one tire after a few track days due to an accident.

Currently at -2.6 front, -2.3 rear, .05 toe out front and .05 toe in rear.

Any input?

As above. More negative camber, slightly less pressure.

[n0thing]

Are you always supposed to left foot brake during turns that doesn't require a downshift?

[Northwest86]

Thats preferance. Knowing how to left foot brake can be beneficial but isn't 100% required.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by n0thing

Are you always supposed to left foot brake during turns that doesn't require a downshift?

You can brake however you want, as long as you get the required braking done. Some people predominantly left foot brake, while others don't. Those that come from karting backgrounds left foot brake a lot.

[dp1]

Apparently my Front-Right and Rear-Left Whiteline sway bar links (end links) are getting a little worn though not compromised yet...after two full track seasons. Not concerned and looking to refresh - what should I replace them with? Hoping for answers from hard core track junkies, like @CSG Mike, @Racecomp Engineering, etc.


I am also contemplating http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...nsion/full-kit, if anyone has had experience. 20+ track days/year. Thanks

[ZionsWrath]

Recommend a fire extinguisher and mount?

If I want to run with PCA this year I am required to have one.

[Northwest86]

Not sure on the Regulations but usually a 1kg version will fit. Just make sure it has expiry dates on it so that they can check that and fits into the right standards. I made a bracket for the Centre Console. It's pretty easy with a piece of plate or two. Mine was a little over-engineered with a 10mm Piece of Alluminium and milled sections for weight savings/I was bored.

[ZionsWrath]

Prefer just something I can buy. I have no fabrication equipment or experience.

Also I drive to my events I like my cup holder ^_^ If it is easy to bolt on and off sure but if I have to remove the center to reach the back side I'd rather not.

The regulation is

FIRE EXTINGUISHER: Must be securely mounted (metal to metal) within reach of driver. Must be
BC or ABC rated, 2.5 lb minimum and must be fully charged. HALON/HALOTRON type is highly
recommended. Required in White run group and above; highly recommended for all others.

Did some looking around, only premade one I see is the STM one but its from NZ...

[dp1]

Originally Posted by dp1

Apparently my Front-Right and Rear-Left Whiteline sway bar links (end links) are getting a little worn though not compromised yet...after two full track seasons. Not concerned and looking to refresh - what should I replace them with? Hoping for answers from hard core track junkies, like @CSG Mike, @Racecomp Engineering, etc.


I am also contemplating http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...nsion/full-kit, if anyone has had experience. 20+ track days/year. Thanks

I received a friendly PM yesterday and I ordered new Whiteline links. They worked well for me and they are a "wear and tear item" so I don't mind replacing them every couple of years as needed. Thx