What is needed for

[Aluma007]

I've been doing autocross events recently and have found the stock setup lacking. I really dont want to mess with too much but camber bolts for sure. The Ts suspension would be great, I don't like the body roll on basic AT suspension. What really bugs me is the way the car "pulls" down low. What can I do to make it pull more like what it does after 4k rpm? AT btw...I brake boost to 2-2500rpm to have a decent take off, but it just lugs to about 4k, then it finally starts to go. Can this be fixed with just an OFT tablet tune? or is the header needed too? Don't want to do the header though. $$$ and noise not my thing. Already have filter/intake tube/exhaust.

[86MLR]

Because auto, not sure what you can do about that, loading up on your OEM box might not be the best in terms of the longevity of it, it's not a powerglide with a stall converter.

Changing your springs and dampers with some quality well engineered items will improve your handling, alot.

Usable camber/alignment is a given.

A good tune won't hurt.

A header isn't going to help you down low.

Seat time.

[86MLR]

Not hard to find > https://www.sspperformance.com/brz-f...converter.html

Something like this may be a option

[86MLR]

https://www.sspperformance.com/brz-f...on-cooler.html

[Aluma007]

woah! thats expensive! guess, I'll just focus on getting through the cones faster. :/

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Aluma007

woah! thats expensive! guess, I'll just focus on getting through the cones faster. :/

I would focus on dropping weight to start with, but, even that gets expensive.

In the end, seat time is the winner.

[Aluma007]

yeah, still have the spare and what not in the trunk...:p

[86TOYO2k17]

A header and tune will definitely get rid of the torque dip and some even make it a torque hill. If staying NA or maybe future Supercharger. Check out ace header and delicious tune.

Also the only real difference/disadvantage of the AT vs the manual is the launch off the line. You will always be about a .8-1sec slower. But after taking off the line the AT is pretty similar. Slightly worse gear spacing but not a huge disadvantage here. And AT shift speeds are actually quicker and more consistent vs Manual.

Look at getting a final drive swap. Which FD is best is sort of like hitting a moving target ideally you would be at the top of a gear at the fastest straights or most frequent straights. For example if your course you frequently top out the straights at 70mph a 4.88 puts third at I think 75mph (can look at FD speed calculators to verify exactly) but now with the 4.88 you’ll be in a better powerband in 3rd in the straight and might get to 74mph in straights. But too aggressive you overshoot and you don’t want to have to shift again.

Next look at weight savings. The first 70lbs is free. Take out trunk junk I think 34lbs? and remove rear seats 36lbs? Or look at DIY rear seat deletes. (I made a almost oem delete kit for about 50$ added 9lbs back but has way more noise reduction then stock seats.) A light weight Shorai battery should drop about 24lbs. And a header back exhaust will also be lighter typically 15-25lbs depending on setup. After these it starts getting expensive to drop more weight. Or you have to start stripping daily driving comforts. But even 100lbs makes a huge noticeable difference. My testing has showed about .1 sec off 0-60 and 1/4mile per 66lbs or .15 per 100lbs

[Aluma007]

I was looking into the FD swap too, but decided against it since there's no one I know of local that can do it properly...set backlash etc... I'll try out the weight loss things for next event.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Aluma007

I was looking into the FD swap too, but decided against it since there's no one I know of local that can do it properly...set backlash etc... I'll try out the weight loss things for next event.

Any transmission or diff shop should be able to do it. Look around and google search you should be able to find a reputable shop within 30minutes drive. Can get full FD kits minus shims from rhdjapan for good price. My 4.56 was 650$ shipped came in under a week. Made a huge difference In acceleration. Dropped .3sec on 0-60 even though 2nd tops out at 57 and I have to shift again. Same with 1/4 mile dropped atleast .3sec even though 3rd tops at 82 now and have to go to 4th in 1/4mile. 0-80 is atleast .5sec quicker.

But the biggest difference I noticed. On stock 4.1fd It felt like the car pulled fine to top of 3rd think 93mph, then fell flat on its face in fourth. Now 3rd goes to 82mph and 4th gear still pulls hard to the top which is 114mph now. Makes HWY pulls 60-115ish. Way faster and more fun.

I wanted a 4.44FD so I could still hit 60 in 2nd and 120 in 4th but they didn’t have it. Also thought about a 5.1 or 5.3 which would make 5th gear usable but then gas mileage starts to take a big hit.

If staying NA I would go 4.56-4.88 depending on what you mostly use car for and the speeds you want to hit. If you have future FI plans a 4.44 would be perfect or a 4.56 would still be fine.