STX setup sharing thread (2023)

[kraftyone]

Shaftworks coilovers 6k F, 9k R
20mm whiteline front 16mm rear bar
949 Racing 6UL 17x9 +40
245 40 17 A052
Still have to do alignment going to shoot for -3.5 to -4.0 camber front
0.0toe front 1/8" rear

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[jcaserta]

Originally Posted by AustinTX

Mine is at 7750 which puts me around 59.5 in my 19 on 255's
I heard some are running 8k?

Thanks. Tuner recommended 7800 so basically the same. I'll do that. I blew up a s2000 motor at nats once, was not fun, not gonna do that again.

Will try to do the pan and pickup at some point this year too, forgot this car benefits from that.

Originally Posted by AustinTX

My car has the power and handling bits, but it hasn't got much weight reduction or a diff yet. How important would the weight reduction stuff be? I've done a 13lb battery, but nothing else to save weight.

I ran it in Beeville Pro this weekend and got whomped in bump class, but I redlit away around 13th place in the index. Not sure if these cars do well in bump, but I expect not given less power. Fun watching Scroggs hustle his new Elantra N though :P

In general STX does pretty well in index so therefore should be pretty good for bump class. The index takes into account the less power. Still, it's not the best car for bump. And obviously bump class usually makes for more course dependency. That enormous bump class at Beeville looked brutal. I didn't see the course, did you have a lot of limiter? Seems to me like on the later cars running 18's is ideal for gearing.

[strat61caster]

Idk maybe I’m crazy but there’s not a ton of weight reduction available in stx.

Coilovers for a couple pounds
Wheels should be at least net zero to go to 17x9
Battery 15-25#
Header/exhaust 10-30#
Front brakes 20#
Remove sound tube 2#

Seat is only worth like 5# with the current minimum weight

Light gas, li-ion shorai, and I still have oem cast brakes and I’m down to <2,600# with no driver. My car is like 2760# off the showroom floor, remove trunk junk and gas gets you to 2650ish, coilover header exhaust decent wheels and even a cheap pc680 15# battery will get you damn close to 2600, maybe 2620 if you don’t like being low on gas, after that it’s just drive it good imho.

[AustinTX]

Originally Posted by jcaserta

In general STX does pretty well in index so therefore should be pretty good for bump class. The index takes into account the less power. Still, it's not the best car for bump. And obviously bump class usually makes for more course dependency. That enormous bump class at Beeville looked brutal. I didn't see the course, did you have a lot of limiter? Seems to me like on the later cars running 18's is ideal for gearing.

Plenty of limiter until I committed to 3rd gear in one place per side. Still plenty of limiter on the left. These were my two redlight runs, Sunday morning lameness.

[TurboLag23]

OK - I'll jump in! Just did the lion's share of this work recently, so still doing some initial drives and planning an alignment/corner balance.

Suspension/Wheels/Tires:
CSG Spec Tein Flex A. 6Kg/mm F/R; factory-spec/recommended preload
Apex ARC-8 - 17x9 +42
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S - 245/40R17. Will likely go with something else (AO52, RE71RS) once these are done.
Stock Sway Bars F/R
SPL Endlinks F/R

Drivetrain/Chassis:
Whiteline Front Gearbox Mount Bushing
Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushing
Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Bushing
Cusco Front Strut Bar - Type OS
Cusco Power Brace - Rear Side Member
Motul Gear 300 - 75W90 (transmission)
Motul Gear 300LS - 75W90 (differential)

Brakes:
OEM Performance Package Brembos (calipers, lines, rotors, pads)
Motul RBF600 Fluid
Radium Master Cylinder Brace

Engine:
Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler
ARK DT-S Catback
Motul 8100 Eco-Lite - 0W20

Etc:
MTEC Shifter Springs
MTEC Clutch Spring
Raceseng Circuit 100 shift knob

Alignment/Corner Balance:
Front Camber: -2.8deg
Front Toe: 0.0deg
Rear Camber: -1.7deg
Rear Toe: 1/16 total
Cross-weight (RL/FR): 49.967
Cross-weight (FL/RR): 50.033
Driver weight: 180 lbs

Not installed/removed:
Whiteline 22mm FSB (contacted LCA when car was lowered)
Whiteline 16mm RSB (removed to balance OEM front bar when coilovers were installed)
Whiteline 18mm RSB (never installed)
Whiteline endlinks F/R (removed with sway bars to keep package complete)
Radium Strut Tower Brace (interfered with damping adjustment on coilovers)
SPC Rear Lower Control Arm (never installed because of bushing/class incompatibility)

[kraftyone]

What coolant is everyone running?

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[SCFD]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

This year's planned updates:

- HKS Header/Borla exhaust
- Killer B oil pickup/baffled pan
- ECU Tune
- STi engine mounts
- Steering rack bushings
- Ground straps
- 5k front springs

I don't think baffled oil pans would be legal based on how the rules are written.

[Autoxer62]

Originally Posted by SCFD

I don't think baffled oil pans would be legal based on how the rules are written.

Why? Oil pans (and pickups) are free in ST per 14.10.A. Please quote the actual rule you reference, not "the rules".

--Bryan

[SCFD]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

Why? Oil pans (and pickups) are free in ST per 14.10.A. Please quote the actual rule you reference, not "the rules".

--Bryan

That's the exact section I'm referring to but the baffles that I'm aware of on this car aren't part of the pan so it doesn't sound like it's allowed?

I'd be very happy to be stand corrected since I was eyeing the Moroso baffle + Killer B pickup.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by SCFD

That's the exact section I'm referring to but the baffles that I'm aware of on this car aren't part of the pan so it doesn't sound like it's allowed?

I'd be very happy to be stand corrected since I was eyeing the Moroso baffle + Killer B pickup.

I see where you’re coming from however the section that the baffle bolts to is actually the upper oil pan per the parts list/service manual so I’d call it modifying the oil pan which is allowed. If it bolted to the block then it would be a windage tray and ripe for a weenie protest.

This is a clear case imho where the performance gain is practically nil and is yet another instance of outdated wording creating a gotcha that shouldn’t exist.

Rulebook wording as of today:
14.10.A Oil pans, oil pickups, and differential covers may be modified or substi- tuted. Addition or modification of windage trays or crankshaft scrap- ers is not allowed.

We could probably eliminate the windage tray wording that exists from a time when engines were designed to oil by the crank dipping into the oil pan which if you separate you can shed resistance and increase power, which is moot anyway because you could just run low on oil and get the same benefit at slightly higher risk.

[Autoxer62]

Originally Posted by SCFD

That's the exact section I'm referring to but the baffles that I'm aware of on this car aren't part of the pan so it doesn't sound like it's allowed?

I'd be very happy to be stand corrected since I was eyeing the Moroso baffle + Killer B pickup.

First, I agree with strat61caster that the baffles that fit between the upper and lower pans are legal per the rules and our specific cars. As he notes, windage trays and scrapers bolt up very close to the crank, it's a different part anyway. I'll disagree a little regarding oiling by the crank dipping into the oil, that system pre-dates the SCCA, cars built after WWII (and really after about 1930) use pressure oiling. The cam in a '60s American V-8 is lubricated by oil thrown from the crank, but that oil comes via the crank itself, not dipped out of the pan. Windage trays and scrapers are available today for a variety of engines and can give notable increases at very high rpms.

However, note that my post says "baffled pan" not "add on baffle". I'm going to make my own and weld it to the pan below the pan rail. If you look at the available pans for other engines (including the WRX boxers) you can see several ways to do this, it's a fairly simple part. That solution is 100% legal for any engine.

--Bryan

[SCFD]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

First, I agree with strat61caster that the baffles that fit between the upper and lower pans are legal per the rules and our specific cars. As he notes, windage trays and scrapers bolt up very close to the crank, it's a different part anyway. I'll disagree a little regarding oiling by the crank dipping into the oil, that system pre-dates the SCCA, cars built after WWII (and really after about 1930) use pressure oiling. The cam in a '60s American V-8 is lubricated by oil thrown from the crank, but that oil comes via the crank itself, not dipped out of the pan. Windage trays and scrapers are available today for a variety of engines and can give notable increases at very high rpms.

However, note that my post says "baffled pan" not "add on baffle". I'm going to make my own and weld it to the pan below the pan rail. If you look at the available pans for other engines (including the WRX boxers) you can see several ways to do this, it's a fairly simple part. That solution is 100% legal for any engine.

--Bryan

Are you welding it in to make it legal? I don't want to have to do anything that requires more work than just bolting it in like the Moroso but I also don't want to get protested.

[Autoxer62]

Originally Posted by SCFD

Are you welding it in to make it legal? I don't want to have to do anything that requires more work than just bolting it in like the Moroso but I also don't want to get protested.

No, I'm just welding it in because that's the usual way to do it, one way or another you don't want it rattling around.

If you're really concerned about a protest, I'd suggest writing a letter to the SCCA and ask for clarification.

[DocWalt]

FWIW I don't see how a bolt on oil pan would be illegal. Nor do I think a bolt in baffle like Tomei would be illegal.