STX Rules and Setup Questions

[scirocco78]

I know I've seen this discussed before but I need some advice.

I had the White line diff inserts installed and the car worked fine.
I just installed the White line traction kit (rear sub frame inserts) and my car is EVIL on the street. I will not let my wife drive it the way it is right now.
Any of my "normal" driving on my normal routes results in sideways corner exit.

Is this just my throttle inputs needing adjustment or should I remove some of these bushing inserts?

I already took out my TRD rear sway bar and put in the OEM bar and softened my rear shocks quite a bit but it still steps out easily.

Any input is appreciated

[justinco]

Originally Posted by scirocco78

I know I've seen this discussed before but I need some advice.

I had the White line diff inserts installed and the car worked fine.
I just installed the White line traction kit (rear sub frame inserts) and my car is EVIL on the street. I will not let my wife drive it the way it is right now.
Any of my "normal" driving on my normal routes results in sideways corner exit.

Is this just my throttle inputs needing adjustment or should I remove some of these bushing inserts?

I already took out my TRD rear sway bar and put in the OEM bar and softened my rear shocks quite a bit but it still steps out easily.

Any input is appreciated

Tires?

Never had an issue with them on either of my cars. Just the power getting to the rear wheels better/quicker and more chassis feedback.

[DocWalt]

Alignment may be messed up now if the rear subframe went into a different position than it was before.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Alignment may be messed up now if the rear subframe went into a different position than it was before.

Isn't everything attached to the subframe? Though thrust angle could be different.

[14stu]

Originally Posted by scirocco78

I know I've seen this discussed before but I need some advice.

I had the White line diff inserts installed and the car worked fine.
I just installed the White line traction kit (rear sub frame inserts) and my car is EVIL on the street. I will not let my wife drive it the way it is right now.
Any of my "normal" driving on my normal routes results in sideways corner exit.

Is this just my throttle inputs needing adjustment or should I remove some of these bushing inserts?

I already took out my TRD rear sway bar and put in the OEM bar and softened my rear shocks quite a bit but it still steps out easily.

Any input is appreciated

Sounds like you've added toe out in the rear, I'd check the alignment since the sway bar wasn't the issue.

[scirocco78]

Thanks guys!

[Silver Ignition]

Originally Posted by scirocco78

I know I've seen this discussed before but I need some advice.



I had the White line diff inserts installed and the car worked fine.

I just installed the White line traction kit (rear sub frame inserts) and my car is EVIL on the street. I will not let my wife drive it the way it is right now.

Any of my "normal" driving on my normal routes results in sideways corner exit.



Is this just my throttle inputs needing adjustment or should I remove some of these bushing inserts?



I already took out my TRD rear sway bar and put in the OEM bar and softened my rear shocks quite a bit but it still steps out easily.



Any input is appreciated

May just need to get used to them? I loved the extra input I got from the car after installing mine!

[scirocco78]

I checked total toe when I finished but I never checked to make sure the subframe was straight I guess too much beer while working on it.
I just got done re aligning it.

Thanks everybody.

[cjd]

For anyone paying attention quietly (assuming I didn't somehow miss a post with this information already...)

SPC toe arms do not appear legal purely from an 'amount of metal' standpoint. The bushings are bigger by about 1mm. They're also a good bit heavier than stock. I don't think they offer material benefit for performance beyond alignments being SO much easier with them.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by cjd

For anyone paying attention quietly (assuming I didn't somehow miss a post with this information already...)

SPC toe arms do not appear legal purely from an 'amount of metal' standpoint. The bushings are bigger by about 1mm. They're also a good bit heavier than stock. I don't think they offer material benefit for performance beyond alignments being SO much easier with them.

Damn, you're right. I got a slightly different measure than you did, about 2mm diameter increase on the metal and the polyurethane.
The metal sleeve has a larger OD but I was hoping the larger diameter of poly would offset that so you'd have a similar poly/metal content but the SPC is theoretically 'stiffer' and therefore not even legal by the letter of the law.

But the fact that I nailed my rear alignment in my garage in <1 hour last night before today's test n' tune made it worth it.



calculations with some sweet powerpoint engineering:
minor update, metal/poly makes a bit more sense from a 'is there more metal than squishy stuff comparison standpoint'
Metal/Poly: OE=0.7 SPC =0.77
You could go in and calculate an actual percentage for the whole thing but you'll get the same net result.



(damn, I should have put *not to scale on the bottom)

[cjd]

It's tough getting a good read on the metal bushing because the rubber goes right up to the edge and is rather thick at that point. I didn't get the calipers out though so could really be off in fact... But that doesn't change the fact that it's bigger.

Alignment happens tomorrow. Hopefully this removes a lot of the stress I faced last time.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by cjd

Alignment happens tomorrow. Hopefully this removes a lot of the stress I faced last time.

While the measurement is far from precise there's a big enough difference that I don't think any finangling can make the measurements and calculation come out favorably. I'm a nerd so I did break down the percentages, the SPC has 1% less poly in it's bush than OE. It's also worth mentioning that the SPC is undoubtedly heavier, I haven't weighed my OE links but according to Anthony's thread they're 3.5 lbs for the pair and I weighed the SPC's at 5.2 lbs for the pair.
Mine seemed stiff at first but it adjusts like a dream, so easy to just turn the two links as needed to dial in what you want.

The only hard part is the lock nut on the outboard side of the link is blocked out by the trailing arm so getting it loose or tightening it with the car on the ground is tricky unless you have the perfect wrench (short open end, I can't recall size off the top of my head).

I'm pretty sure most of my frustration with OE came from dinged up cam-washers on the nut side, either I fucked 'em up or a lazy tech did, either way I think replacing those will make going back to OE easier if I'm ever in a position to fight for a good finish.

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by scirocco78

I checked total toe when I finished but I never checked to make sure the subframe was straight I guess too much beer while working on it.
I just got done re aligning it.

Thanks everybody.

I put those bushings in not too long ago also. I dont recall there being any leeway on reassembly. So I'm not sure what you mean about the sub frame not being straight. Maybe I missed something?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Silver Ignition]

That’s really unfortunate about the toe arms, as I just installed mine last night and the alignment was a dream!

Any way to petition to have it added?