BRZ/FR-S Strut Tower Brace - Any Interest?

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

-Branding/aesthetic features. We really don't want to get ahead of ourselves just yet, so hit us with your ideas. RazBRZ had mentioned an optional metal logo like on our hood struts, that's good thinking! Keep em coming!

Are you talking about a stick on part? people can slap it on or leave it off if they want?

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

-Weight. I think we can all agree that we'd like to keep any unnecessary weight to a minimum. BUT, adding a few ounces to make something more beautiful might be acceptable?

What do you mean more beautiful?

[u/Josh]

Did you do any deflection testing with your bar alone (stock triangulation bars removed)?

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by sierra

A small weight gain for beautiful curves is always acceptable to me.

Curves<->Woman=Good
Curves<->Tower Brace=Bad

[dawnst3ar]

So, I know NOTHING about tower braces, but so far, I like the direction you are going. A larger bracket would be on my wish list, along with red to go with all the other Grimm stuff in my bay. Personally, in the limited research I have done, my favorite was one that had a bracket that went all the way around the hole in the tower.

[SkAsphalt]

I love the look, may I suggest you make a nice 4-5 inch wide grim speed gold plaque (like the ones included with your hood struts) to be placed on the center middle of the brace?

why? because sexy

[Jeffboyarrdee]

After reading the input and GS's direction, I like that this is going function over form...well in this case form makes all the difference but you all get what I mean. I think that if the tests show hollow vs solid makes no huge difference, then hollow it is! If creating new triangular bars be non beneficial or even add a significant increase in price this may not be the best direction. Even small engravings or textures can add to the price. I think that their goal of a very very affordable and yet reliable product is marketing in itself that would separate from the rest. I'm excited for this!

[knipple]

Originally Posted by bakerr6

I like the original. I doubt I would be buying one though, just for the simple fact that I don't think I can modify these in order to stay in my current autoX class.

As long as the Grimspeed bar remains a 2 point bar, as in only connects the strut tower bars, this bar will be legal for STX. If the Grimspeed bar ends up being a 3 point bar (e.g. replaces the bars that connect the strut tower to the firewall and is integral to the strut bar), it is no longer legal for STX.

This bar is NOT legal for CS though.

[RazBRZ]

* Please keep STX legal.
What about the triangle bars as separate pieces, would that still be legal? Or can they not be replaced period?

[tripjammer]

Wow less than $150? I am sold. I am going to wait and get this bar. I was almost ready to drop the coin on the Cusco strut tower bar with the built in brake master cylinder brace.

I know you want to keep you bar simple and I am all for that. I think y'all have the best stand alone brake master cylinder brace. What if you incorporate that into an optional bar like Cusco does for people who don't have your brake master cylinder brace?

[ATL BRZ]

Love all your stuff, @GrimmSpeed! You're one of my favorite vendors here because you keep the community involved from development to release, and all your products are well-engineered and fairly priced!

I'll be waiting for this strut brace (group buy?) to compliment my GrimmSpeed hood struts and MCB.

[mottor]

Originally Posted by RazBRZ

* Please keep STX legal.
What about the triangle bars as separate pieces, would that still be legal? Or can they not be replaced period?

I agree, let's keep it STX legal please.

Also agree with others' earlier posts in keeping it as plain and simple as possible. I personally don't care if it matches the finish of the OEM bars as it's an aftermarket part anyway, and I like the black wrinkle finish used for the MCB. The ideas for a hint of red finish to match the MCB or a stick on plate like the hood struts are both good options too. If I had to pick I'd go with the red, but that's because it matches the color scheme I'm trying to stick with.

Strong=Light>Price>Aesthetics IMO. Keep up the good work guys, it is much appreciated.

[sbxjap]

What makes me mad is that I'm already doing a Cusco setup, lol

I hope this part gets a lot of attention as I'm all for GrimmSpeed.

[Clembo]

Has anyone contacted the design engineers about the original analysis for the stock triangular bars? What, if any, were the original requirements for the stock triangle bar installation (preload, strut tower position, point at assembley, etc.)? And what were the fastening requirements? When I see mounting studs intentionally painted after fastener installation I assume there was a torque requirement. And does this torque stretch the mounting studs as it does in some cases? If so, these studs may require replacement before reusing them as attachment points. And depending on the new loading forces and directions, they may require resizing as well.

I'm not questioning your present analysis or data, only that without knowing the original parameters, you may be unintentionally altering some of the original design assumptions and/or criterior. I see people yanking parts off their cars all the time (and often replacing them with something else) with little thought as to how or why they were put there in the first place. In most cases and for street use, it probably doesn't matter much. But for the track or extreme conditions it may be a different story.

Sorry for being over-cautious but I come from the nuclear world where engineering often took a huge number of variables into consideration. And without a solid understanding of all these variables, it was easy to get in trouble.

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by Clembo

Has anyone contacted the design engineers about the original analysis for the stock triangular bars? What, if any, were the original requirements for the stock triangle bar installation (preload, strut tower position, point at assembley, etc.)? And what were the fastening requirements? When I see mounting studs intentionally painted after fastener installation I assume there was a torque requirement. And does this torque stretch the mounting studs as it does in some cases? If so, these studs may require replacement before reusing them as attachment points. And depending on the new loading forces and directions, they may require resizing as well.

I'm not questioning your present analysis or data, only that without knowing the original parameters, you may be unintentionally altering some of the original design assumptions and/or criterior. I see people yanking parts off their cars all the time (and often replacing them with something else) with little thought as to how or why they were put there in the first place. In most cases and for street use, it probably doesn't matter much. But for the track or extreme conditions it may be a different story.

Sorry for being over-cautious but I come from the nuclear world where engineering often took a huge number of variables into consideration. And without a solid understanding of all these variables, it was easy to get in trouble.

It's a valid concern that painted bolts indicate QC procedure. Typically, we use a colored dot to denote loctite (blue, green red). A line (swipe) with a grease pen is used to indicate final installation. Once the part has been installed and torqued, the line will show if the bolt backs out or if maintenance has been performed. Perfectly lining up the mark after maintenance is more work than most techs care to do, so it's a good indicator. If the bolt is realy at risk of backing out, cotter pins and safety wire will be used. You won't see many of these on cars (besides the axles), because it's cheaper to overdesign.

As far as reusing the mounts, the factor of safety on those bolts is insane. In single shear mounting, bolts can handle ALOT of force. Most of the load is shared by the structural pieces you're connecting. The reason an engineer would overdesign them, is when the nut walks out... the force is no longer shear (in plane), it becomes bending (out of plane). Strength drops alot. You have to design around bad mechanics and neglectful high schoolers. If everything is tight and properly aligned, you could probably hang the car from those 4 bolts.

Here's a question for ya'll. Have you ever seen a broken strut tower bar? It doesn't happen very often. When they do though, it never happens on the bar itself. Failure is many times due to over-tightening of bolts or shock loading causing failure at a weld/bend near the mounting plate.

The gussets on the GS bar mount seem to be pretty robust in that regard. Not too worried about them finding real estate for a logo either... everything they fab up has G*S etched/laser cut in it.