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#141 |
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#142 | |
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This is primarily a question I'm asking for my son, who prints D&D characters for some of his friends or the beasts they will face (he is he dungeon master). He has a small area printer (a mid-tier Monoprice Mini that has a 4x4 or so print area). Some of the items he prints have tails and such that exceed the area of the printer so he prints those parts separately. He adds tabs and slots to facilitate but sometimes it is difficult to hold while the glue dries. I was thinking a "spot weld" in a couple of places would provide a better hold.
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#143 | |
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Quickset epoxy is probably the easiest in this situation. You can also find a catalyst for CA (super glue) that instantly hardens it, but for a lasting hold it's best to let most of it air dry. |
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#144 |
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Mortise and tenon and a few pegs to hold them in like timber frame construction.
Leave the pegs sticking out and it can be part of the story universe.
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#145 |
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Most thermoset plastics don't like being remelted. You may be able to get away with this with PLA, but anything else likely not.
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#146 | |
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In fact the entire premise of FDM printing is based on heating, cooling and reheating polymer pellets into filaments and then final extrusion for printing. |
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#147 | |
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#148 | |
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There are industrial recyclers that can take it but rare, and unless you're pumping out tons of it, probably not financially worth it. There's also bio PA polymer powders and filaments coming on the market, but they have a while to go to be validated before end use in auto/aerospace/medical markets. |
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#149 |
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#150 | |
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#151 | |
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max diameter of holes would be 34.5mm. let me know what diameter holes you're needing Last edited by Rzrs; 08-14-2021 at 08:48 PM. |
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#152 | |
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#153 |
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I'll work on it tonight and see what i can come up with.
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#154 | |
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