Aluminum Driveshaft Bolt Issues

[RJasonKlein]

I'm getting ready to install an Axle-Exchange aluminum driveshaft and recall reading that some people found their factory driveshaft mounting bolts to be too short when they installed their aluminum driveshaft. I think one member reported that he had to install them without washers in order to have enough threads to tighten the bolt, which is not acceptable to me. Can anyone share their experience and offer insight before I install mine? Do the factory bolts work or are they a compromise? Are the troublesome bolts at the output shaft, the differential, or both? If there's a problem using them, I can call ARP to get longer bolts, but I don't know what the bolt specifications are and don't yet have the bolts from my stick driveshaft in hand to be able to measure them - if anyone knows overall length, diameter, thread length, and thread pitch, please let me know.

Thanks for the help!

[makesdrivingfunagain]

Thats a great question, I was actually thinking about purchasing a lightweight driveshaft after my gear install. Wasn't sure if you had a chance to give them a call and see what they said. I would like to know what they say since it is their product. I hope it goes well with the install. I like losing weight. It is easy to verify weight loss, as we dont have to rent out dynos to confirm a power to weight ratio improvement. Let us know how the install goes and how you like the mod. Thanks

[RJasonKlein]

That's a great place to start, so I'll call Axle-Exchange and report back here with what they tell me. I called ARP this afternoon and they said it was likely that they'd have something that would work, but that I'd need to give them the bolt specifications for them to find a match. Because I haven't removed my factory driveshaft yet, I can't do that - like I said in my first post, if anyone knows the bolt specifications please let me know.

[Wayno]

Just don't use the washers.

[skye67]

Go hardware store, buy grade 8 bolts in the Length you need, Done!

[continuecrushing]

My bolts were NOT long enough either.

Haven't purchased new ones yet, so I am unsure of the size.

[RJasonKlein]

Originally Posted by Norville Rogers

I think if you have these kinds of questions, and you are asking the internet for help, you probably shouldn't be considering this.

Oh, it's our British super-troll again...does every contribution you make to this forum have to prove your eligibility as a contestant in an 'asshole of the year' competition?

Well, we have a winner! Fuck off, mate - cheerio!

[ka-t_240]

you can find the bolts you need at 95% of hardware stores, lowes, home depot, menards. No need for arp.

[canyons]

I just installed the aluminum DS from Drive Shaft Shop. The plate at the diff end is thicker than the OEM DS, sounds like the one from Axle Exchange is too.

For mine, The factory nuts end up grabbing about 2/3 of the remaining factory bolt when keeping the factory washers on the bolt side. The factory used those extra-thick washers because the bolts sit in a notched recess. You won't get great purchase on the bolt heads if you remove the washers - your socket/wrench will only grab about half of the bolt head. Your mileage may vary.

note: the factory M10 bolts/nuts are 30mm in length, collared, 10mm diameter with 1.0 super-fine thread pitch, stamped grade 11 steel. The factory nuts are also collared. Apparently the factory nuts are NOT grade 11 steel, they were beginning to round off with my 14mm box wrench ( hand turned.) I replaced the factory nuts with some grade 10 nuts without collars. As they are 1.5mm thinner than the OEMs, they sit flush on the ends of the factory bolts using the DS mentioned above.

FYI There are no threads on the diff itself or the DS plate. You can easily swap to 10mm 1.25 pitch grade 10 bolts in lengths or 35mm or 40mm. ( I"m not an engineer, can't comment on any differences the thread pitch might cause.) These are much easier to find at a typical hardware store. I recommend you retain the OEM washers at the bolt heads to lift the bolt head out of the notched recesses in which they sit; other wise you lose 1/4 of the purchase (wrench contact) on bolt head.

Also, get the longest 14mm box wrench you can find; you will need the leverage to break loose the OEM bolts.

[RJasonKlein]

Originally Posted by canyons

I just installed the aluminum DS from Drive Shaft Shop. The plate at the diff end is thicker than the OEM DS, sounds like the one from Axle Exchange is too.

For mine, The factory nuts end up grabbing about 2/3 of the remaining factory bolt when keeping the factory washers on the bolt side. The factory used those extra-thick washers because the bolts sit in a notched recess. You won't get great purchase on the bolt heads if you remove the washers - your socket/wrench will only grab about half of the bolt head. Your mileage may vary.

note: the factory bolts/nuts are 30mm in length, collared, 10mm diameter with 1.0 super-fine thread pitch, stamped grade 11 steel. The factory nuts are also collared. Apparently the factory nuts are NOT grade 11 steel, they were beginning to round off with my 14mm box wrench ( hand turned.) I replaced the factory nuts with some grade 10 nuts without collars. As they are 1.5mm thinner than the OEMs, they sit flush on the ends of the factory bolts using the DS mentioned above.

FYI There are no threads on the diff itself or the DS plate. You can easily swap to 10mm 1.25 pitch grade 10 bolts in lengths or 35mm or 40mm. ( I"m not an engineer, can't comment on any differences the thread pitch might cause.) These are much easier to find at a typical hardware store. I recommend you retain the OEM washers at the bolt heads to lift the bolt head out of the notched recesses in which they sit; other wise you lose 1/4 of the purchase (wrench contact) on bolt head.

Also, get the longest 14mm box wrench you can find; you will need the leverage to break loose the OEM bolts.

This is awesome information and exactly what I was looking for - I really appreciate it.

[DreamSpeedBRZ]

Has anyone addressed the issue of the color/dust cup on the spindle end? I'm about to install an aluminum DS and am slightly worried about the opening to the transmission being exposed to the elements.

[Trueweltall]

I removed my DSS aluminum drive shaft, when launching it the shaft would bang into the bottom of my stock shifter. Also found out on track it vibrated like a mother fker above 100 even after rotating it every which way.

[Contender]

I so much want one but, not if it vibrates like a mother fucker.