SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Jawnathin]

Heh, these are like 90 second long courses at higher speeds. Pretty nice setup you've guys got going on. Very lucky that you have two of them.

The site in my video is the nicest one we've got, pretty happy to have it, though its likely to be gone after this year. The rest are beat up Stadium parking lots with a lot of gravel and loose surfaces.

I think the higher speed transitional stuff is the most fun kind of course. Slower, tighter stuff isn't as 'testing' I've found. It's not hard doing a 15mph u-turn and only helps high HP cars (which my other car is quite fond of...)

Anyway, I saw what you meant by the launch. Bogging down or being sub 4k RPM really hurts. These cars need to be revved out to be kept happy. When on course, I usually err on the side of more throttle and just hope it sticks. The car really depends on speed maintenance.

[Jawnathin]

Did you guys push inward on the strut with the top hat loosened prior to tightening everything down to try to get more camber? I know it won't be much, but more would be better for us.

I'm thinking that when I install the struts, I'll push inward on the strut, then tighten the top hats. Then when installing the crash bolts, push inward on the hub/rotor, then tighten the nuts.

Thanks.

[markw]

I plan on jacking up the wheel at the hub when I do it.

[Jawnathin]

Originally Posted by markw

I plan on jacking up the wheel at the hub when I do it.

Will that work? Maybe with everything loose it'll get some negative camber out of it, but it was my understanding that our front suspension dials in some positive camber under compression. Jacking up on the hub will be upward pressure, not inward.

Thanks.

[markw]

I'll let you know, plan on doing it this weekend.

[Jawnathin]

Thanks. Good luck.

[TrqlessWonder]

Originally Posted by Jawnathin

Will that work? Maybe with everything loose it'll get some negative camber out of it, but it was my understanding that our front suspension dials in some positive camber under compression. Jacking up on the hub will be upward pressure, not inward.

Thanks.

Putting a floor jack on the rotor won't necessarily get you much (handier on cars that get upper and lower crash bolts) but every bit helps. If nothing else, it'll help keep it as far negative as possible while you tighten the bolts back down. Think of it more like an extra set of hands.

[Jawnathin]

Is it any better or worse than just pushing inward while tightening?

[TrqlessWonder]

In our case, probably not, but you need two hands to tighten it down. So, you'll want something (friend, floor jack, something) to help hold it in place while your hands are tied up.

[bimmer635csi]

When I installed the crash bolts, the upper part of the hub just fell in to negative camber. Gravity holds it there for you until you can snug it up.

The top of the struts is kind of the same because you only need one hand to tighten the three strut hat bolts, so you can lean on the strut rod to get negative camber if it doesn't fall in anyway.

[TrqlessWonder]

The hydraulic jack pushes a little harder than gravity does. Gravity is acting on the bolt, too, and that bolt wants to find the bottom of the hole, which is not where max negative is. That's why I use a jack anyway. It is, admittedly, a tiny benefit, though.

[Jawnathin]

Got it. I've got a friend helping, so I'll just have her push inward while I tighten. I can see the benefit if you were working solo though.

[mla163]

Originally Posted by Jawnathin

Got it. I've got a friend helping, so I'll just have her push inward while I tighten. I can see the benefit if you were working solo though.

Quoted for innuendo.

[Kido1986]

Is there anything in this world MORE innuendo-laden than working on a car?