Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[eljefe]

Great writeup, I'm getting ready to start now.

How did lowering springs affect your alignment? I only bought springs, not any other adjustable pieces like control arms, etc. Will i need these to get it properly aligned?

[Deadspool]

I'm speaking from personal experience, I used an impact gun to disassemble my units. The shafts spun, all four shocks blew inside three days.

I since purchased replacement shocks, and created a tool to uninstall and reinstall.

I welded a 3/8 extension to a 14mm and one to a 17mm socket. Directly on the side of the socket. This allowed me to use the Allan keys welded to a threaded rod extension for leverage, you need two, as the shaft hex is larger in the front than it is the rear.

With a 1/2" to 3/8" step down and a breaker bar attached to the extension/socket creation, Insert the Allan key through the open socket, and slowly apply pressure. Slowly as not to cause an unexpected jerking motion. Same works for assembly, use a large tq wrench for a smooth even sweep.

I don't have any pics of the tools I made, but I can PhotoShop some kind of drawing of what I mean.

I will reiterate.

If you intend to reuse the stock shocks, do not allow the shaft to spin in the cartridge. Some may get away with it, but it will 100% work if you are cautious with the shaft. Giggity.

[stockysnail]

Here's how to remove them without chance of blowing the shock.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32414

[cnk]

Originally Posted by Deadspool

I'm speaking from personal experience, I used an impact gun to disassemble my units. The shafts spun, all four shocks blew inside three days.

I since purchased replacement shocks, and created a tool to uninstall and reinstall.

I welded a 3/8 extension to a 14mm and one to a 17mm socket. Directly on the side of the socket. This allowed me to use the Allan keys welded to a threaded rod extension for leverage, you need two, as the shaft hex is larger in the front than it is the rear.

With a 1/2" to 3/8" step down and a breaker bar attached to the extension/socket creation, Insert the Allan key through the open socket, and slowly apply pressure. Slowly as not to cause an unexpected jerking motion. Same works for assembly, use a large tq wrench for a smooth even sweep.

I don't have any pics of the tools I made, but I can PhotoShop some kind of drawing of what I mean.

I will reiterate.

If you intend to reuse the stock shocks, do not allow the shaft to spin in the cartridge. Some may get away with it, but it will 100% work if you are cautious with the shaft. Giggity.

You could have just picked up a set of crowfeet attachments instead of welding everything up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

[Deadspool]

Originally Posted by cnk

You could have just picked up a set of crowfeet attachments instead of welding everything up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Those were not available for an reasonable price here. $80 for a kit vs the $1.50 for each socket and extension.

[eljefe]

Thanks for the excellent writeup Darren. Here are some pics i took after finishing the job. Only took me 2.5 hours, and thats including the time i spent removing the rear seats after i butterfingered the top strut mount nut, along with my socket and my extension. Be careful not to do this, as no amount of fishing with a magnet will help you.

Springs are Tein S Tech's in case anyone was wondering. They ride great, feel almost stock around town but you can feel the difference when you turn sharply, also the rear slides out easier due to the stiffer spring rate in the rear. All in all the car feels much flatter now, but not uncomfortable or bouncy. Wheels are 17x8 +35, tires are 225/25/17

[Amadeus]

Does it matter if the little tab on top is front or back? I checked the manual and there is no reference to the tab.

[Dezoris]

Red tab faces front of car

[Vito]

Great write up. I just installed my springs with an impact wrench but on my first drive I got a lot of rattling. So I purchase a opened end ratchet and used an allen wrench and the rattling went away. I thought my struts were shot.

[KpAtch3s]

Just installed some H&R springs last night and after driving around a little bit today I'm noticing some knocking from the front end. I may have overtightened the front sway bar, which I'll go back and fix, but that shouldn't be causing the sound.

Any ideas?

[ECUtrav]

Thanks for this DIY write-up, helped me out a lot. I used Jeebus' "simpler spring/strut install DIY" in addition to this and it didn't take me long at all to finish the project. I didn't even need a spring compressor.

[switchlanez]

Thanks for this DIY, really came in handy along with the complete service manual posted in another topic. Some suggestions...

After removing the 2 bolts on the lower control arm, my friend and I could barely budge the the lower control arms to pull out/position in the strut. Took me 2 hours to wrestle the strut out then maneuver it back in on my own. Then 1 hour for the other side with help from a friend. That time was pure wrestling/elbow grease and excludes any bolting/unbolting time. Probably would've been world's easier removing all 4 bolts on the LCA instead of the 2 you suggest.

Originally Posted by DarrenDriven

12: The clip came out a tiny bit mashed, but did not break and still clipped back in without any problems when I reinstalled the strut assembly. I would be happy to hear advice for getting this clip out easier.

This clip comes off quite easily if you find the skinny tab inside the slit (indicated in the pic below) which is the perfect size/shape for a flat head screwdriver tip to key right in. Insert the tip below the tab and pull towards you to unlatch the cable (should be effortless).

[SurfAndSand]

What happened to your side marker?

[Adonis8100]

Really done a nice job there. The display you present for us is inspiring and very professional. This is really helpful for taking ideas in this regard.

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