Car Won't Start - Please help!

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by ToySub1946

Hopefully you did not have to pay for the tow.

If so, I'd ask the selling Stealership to reimburse you for the expense...especially since you had no use of your vehicle for several days.

Happier Days Ahead.

Drive it like you stole it.


For the past: Sorry I led you astray, telling you to try and pop start it. Must be that alarm does more than simply interrupting the crank circuit.

Oh no I appreciated the idea. And I used my included scion roadside assistance to tow it so it was free. Car is 3 months old.

[fridayfrs]

Please let us know what the dealership identifies as the problem area.

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by fridayfrs

Please let us know what the dealership identifies as the problem area.

Post 92 above.

[Toyarzee]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Oh no I appreciated the idea. And I used my included scion roadside assistance to tow it so it was free. Car is 3 months old.

Good deal, I'm just glad you got it running again. Hopefully you got the quirks sorted out early and you have many more issue-free miles ahead of you.

Btw, aren't all dealer installed options covered under the same warranty at any dealer location? I understand they took care of you, but confused by the "just this time just for you" business...

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by Toyarzee

Good deal, I'm just glad you got it running again. Hopefully you got the quirks sorted out early and you have many more issue-free miles ahead of you.

Btw, aren't all dealer installed options covered under the same warranty at any dealer location? I understand they took care of you, but confused by the "just this time just for you" business...

Everyone at a dealership is a salesman, and this very well may have been covered under warranty and the service manager may have been using this lie to earn some browny points as he added "we look forward to you servicing your car here" at the end. Over the years I have learned to trust no one, particularly anyone in sales, and most particularly anyone in automotive sales.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ToySub1946

.........................yet I'm almost 69yo, and with way more miles than I'd normally drive for a geezer who does not work...due to having so much fun with this ride...just can't be anal using it on long trips (flying shit on freeways)...and winding dirt roads around here meant for a vehicle with more ground clearance or 4wd vehicle. Currently gotta jack it up and bend some sheet metal underneath it back in place to stop vibrations in exhaust system...LOL...so have fun, don't worry...just enjoy...is my current motto.

............


humfrz

[SkiRideDrive]

I contacted the dealer I purchased the car from regarding my thoughts on their installing of an alarm without my permission. I have an appointment Wednesday morning for the alarm to be removed from the car and they are sending me a gift card for gas...

After that hoping I can get this 86 nanny installed. Have a track day scheduled Saturday.

[pleong]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

I contacted the dealer I purchased the car from regarding my thoughts on their installing of an alarm without my permission. I have an appointment Wednesday morning for the alarm to be removed from the car and they are sending me a gift card for gas...

After that hoping I can get this 86 nanny installed. Have a track day scheduled Saturday.

I'm having somewhat of the same issue.. only difference is, my cluster gauge lights don't even come on.. nothing really comes on except the little lights for AC and recirculation.. my ethanol content analyzer, which is tapped into the cig light adapter.. power windows mirrors and wipers work but that's it.. checked all the fuses, relays, battery

Did the dealership tell you which wire was loose? I do have a turbo timer which is wired into a bunch of power, ignition and starter type wires under there and I'm thinking it might be causing the issue... If you could find out which wire it was I could possibly eliminate some issues. thanks!

[Big D Design]

I have an AutoPage alarm system installed on my FRS and a Viper on my Roush Mustang. The installer told me that he takes the time to solder and shrink wrap all connections. He said that most installers don't do that and years later the alarm will cause trouble. It took a full day for him to install the alarm in each car. What I get out of this is be very picky where you get an aftermarket alarm installed, and also only get a good brand... screw how much it costs. Where I live can be a place where a car alarm will send the thief to the next car. I had years ago the AutoPage beeper system on my car with a very expensive stereo system. I had the beeper go off at my work and ran outside and the thief scaled a 10ft fence and ran. The window was broken but the 7k worth of stereo equipment was still there. I even had a 1k Denon CD player that was impossible to replace and sounded 10 times better than any other one I have owned. A 2 way alarm system is a good way not to worry as much when parking in some places. The FRS alarm also has a GPS module to let you know where the car is, if stolen. Remember if they don't guarantee that they will solder connections, look elsewhere.

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by pleong

I'm having somewhat of the same issue.. only difference is, my cluster gauge lights don't even come on.. nothing really comes on except the little lights for AC and recirculation.. my ethanol content analyzer, which is tapped into the cig light adapter.. power windows mirrors and wipers work but that's it.. checked all the fuses, relays, battery

Did the dealership tell you which wire was loose? I do have a turbo timer which is wired into a bunch of power, ignition and starter type wires under there and I'm thinking it might be causing the issue... If you could find out which wire it was I could possibly eliminate some issues. thanks!

No they wouldn't tell me which wire. I think they learned I was upset about the whole process and decided they wanted to stop giving me ammunition to complain to the dealer about.

Tomorrow I get to confront the insteller (in this case remover) about how he needs to do the job properly. They have already destroyed the stock wiring hardness by using T-taps. Also, I'm guessing the alarm must be wired in series somewhere so a stock wire must have been cut, I am concerned how he is going to reconnect that. I would prefer solder and heat shrink, but we all know these guys will do the absolute minimum possible.

[Tcoat]

Dude. Not really calling you out but how did things go from this?:

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Thanks for your interest. I very much appreciate any input.

Problem:
I turn the key and the car doesn't even attempt to crank over.

Summary/Guess:
Theory 1: I unplugged the dimmer switch and trunk switch without disconnecting battery (stupid me).
Theory 2: I may have manipulated the alarm system dongle/wire in some way when removing the kick panel.

-Also of note - the car alarm dongle/button unit is on the bottom of the kick panel, that was hanging by the wire when i removed the kick panel. I don't think i hit the button on it (blue) but I may have. Also, perhaps the wire hanging did something to the security system.
!

To this?:

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

No they wouldn't tell me which wire. I think they learned I was upset about the whole process and decided they wanted to stop giving me ammunition to complain to the dealer about.

Tomorrow I get to confront the insteller (in this case remover) about how he needs to do the job properly. They have already destroyed the stock wiring hardness by using T-taps. Also, I'm guessing the alarm must be wired in series somewhere so a stock wire must have been cut, I am concerned how he is going to reconnect that. I would prefer solder and heat shrink, but we all know these guys will do the absolute minimum possible.

Ya they may have done a bad job of attaching it. Or, you may have pulled it off removing the panel and doing all the work you did. Not really just or fair for you to go slamming them when it is a total unknown. The fact of the matter is, the car worked fine right up to the point that you pulled the panel. Right? Any installer anyplace would likely have used the exact same methods to tap into the harness. Those taps are made for that very purpose.
Sorry, it just irks me when people go off on a rant about how bad service departments are when in some cases there is zero proof they even did anything wrong.

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Dude. Not really calling you out but how did things go from this?:



To this?:


Ya they may have done a bad job of attaching it. Or, you may have pulled it off removing the panel and doing all the work you did. Not really just or fair for you to go slamming them when it is a total unknown. The fact of the matter is, the car worked fine right up to the point that you pulled the panel. Right? Any installer anyplace would likely have used the exact same methods to tap into the harness. Those taps are made for that very purpose.
Sorry, it just irks me when people go off on a rant about how bad service departments are when in some cases there is zero proof they even did anything wrong.

I can understand your position. But I am still very unhappy about a substandard non-factory wiring job being installed on a car that was presented by the dealer as factory brand new. T-taps are not factory. Factories don't use them because they don't pass their durability tests. They are simply the lowest cost option on doing wiring. Also, this was simply the dealer trying to make more money. They have calculated that preinstalling these and then charging customers to activate them makes them the most money. The dealer knew they were in the wrong when I confronted them about it.

Regarding your comment on any installer anywhere doing it this way, I disagree. I would never have someone modify the wiring in my car this way. If i wanted to have an alarm installed I would have the installation priced out the proper way (soldered and heat shrinked) and then made my decision based on that price. This has been mentioned previously in the thread by others. You may disagree and think T-taps are fine. That would be your perogative. I purchased this car under the representations of the dealer that it was brand new from the factory and such was constructed to factory standards. If that was the case, removing the kick panel would not have harmed anything and I would not be in this position.

[Toyarzee]

@Tcoat , in his defense...

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

their installing of an alarm without my permission.

They also pulled that "using of the friend card" where they fixed it under warranty even though they shouldn't have for free, just cause they're such nice guys bullcrap.

In dealers defense, they resolved the immediate issue and threw him a bone with the gas card..

Overall, it's one of those unfortunate wash situations... on the extreme end, I've had issues where I've called ahead to a dealer to confirm if an advertised vehicle was still available and at the advertised price. Drove 3 hours to said dealership to pick up vehicle that matches photos they sent me. Upon arrival and delivery, they noted they had to remove the rear bumper and back seat because they discovered while I was in transit to their office that the agreed price didn't include those "options". One of those dafuk?! moments...

Good luck with your meeting SkiRideDrive

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

I can understand your position. But I am still very unhappy about a substandard non-factory wiring job being installed on a car that was presented by the dealer as factory brand new. T-taps are not factory. Factories don't use them because they don't pass their durability tests. They are simply the lowest cost option on doing wiring. Also, this was simply the dealer trying to make more money. They have calculated that preinstalling these and then charging customers to activate them makes them the most money. The dealer knew they were in the wrong when I confronted them about it.

Regarding your comment on any installer anywhere doing it this way, I disagree. I would never have someone modify the wiring in my car this way. If i wanted to have an alarm installed I would have the installation priced out the proper way (soldered and heat shrinked) and then made my decision based on that price. This has been mentioned previously in the thread by others. You may disagree and think T-taps are fine. That would be your perogative. I purchased this car under the representations of the dealer that it was brand new from the factory and such was constructed to factory standards. If that was the case, removing the kick panel would not have harmed anything and I would not be in this position.

Originally Posted by Toyarzee

@Tcoat , in his defense...



They also pulled that "using of the friend card" where they fixed it under warranty even though they shouldn't have for free, just cause they're such nice guys bullcrap.

In dealers defense, they resolved the immediate issue and threw him a bone with the gas card..

Overall, it's one of those unfortunate wash situations... on the extreme end, I've had issues where I've called ahead to a dealer to confirm if an advertised vehicle was still available and at the advertised price. Drove 3 hours to said dealership to pick up vehicle that matches photos they sent me. Upon arrival and delivery, they noted they had to remove the rear bumper and back seat because they discovered while I was in transit to their office that the agreed price didn't include those "options". One of those dafuk?! moments...

Oh don't get me wrong I would be totally pissed about the whole thing as well. I just wanted to get my point out there that the dealers are not always the horrible, clueless clods that they sometimes get made out to be.