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Old 07-31-2012, 07:50 AM   #99
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(225) 931-2290. Chris Carver
He does corner balancing in BR.
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:17 AM   #100
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Well, I got my SSR wheels in and my Nameless downpipe.

Word of warning. The stock overpipe is a bitch to get off. You need a 10, 12, 14 socket & open end wrench and a very "colorful" use of the english language (also a dremmel in my case because the LAST nut was cross threaded from the factory.... lucky me!!!!!). Oh, and a full set of jack stands, a regular jack, and a bottle jack for lifting the engine up. You will know the meaning of rage when you try to get the overpipe between the engine and frame.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:35 PM   #101
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Well, I got my SSR wheels in and my Nameless downpipe.

Word of warning. The stock overpipe is a bitch to get off. You need a 10, 12, 14 socket & open end wrench and a very "colorful" use of the english language (also a dremmel in my case because the LAST nut was cross threaded from the factory.... lucky me!!!!!). Oh, and a full set of jack stands, a regular jack, and a bottle jack for lifting the engine up. You will know the meaning of rage when you try to get the overpipe between the engine and frame.
awesome! type c's? what tires? and crank pulley incoming?
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:22 PM   #102
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17x8.5 type c with 245/40 RS-3 all around. Already have a Perrin crank pulley installed.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:13 PM   #103
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Notice a difference with the pulley?
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:47 AM   #104
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Mitch, are you flipping the springs front to rear on the KWs? They come with 400# rear and 350# front. Most people are flipping them around and still saying the rear is pretty loose. I flipped mine.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:19 PM   #105
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The engine does rev a bit faster, but I only notice it on throttle blips for downshifting.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:03 PM   #106
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Mitch, are you flipping the springs front to rear on the KWs? They come with 400# rear and 350# front. Most people are flipping them around and still saying the rear is pretty loose. I flipped mine.
I haven't decided. The last thing I want to do is induce understeer. Factory setup is stiffer in the back than the front. Kind of curious that even with them swapped the back end is loose. I'll do some more research and get back to you on that one. I take it you're planning on swapping?
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:10 PM   #107
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I'm in fort polk and i got one, but yesterday someone switched lanes and hit me so yeah I'm kinda pissed off right now >:-/
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:50 PM   #108
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I haven't decided. The last thing I want to do is induce understeer. Factory setup is stiffer in the back than the front. Kind of curious that even with them swapped the back end is loose. I'll do some more research and get back to you on that one. I take it you're planning on swapping?
Yes, mine are swapped. Bill, the guy with the huge write up, has them flipped and went as far as disconnecting the rear sway bar and said it was still loose.
Im thinking tihs car is going to need a lot of rear camber. I mean it comes with about 0 front and .5 rear and is pretty neutral. Then people go to 2.5+ front and 1.7 rear and complain its loose. Time will tell I suppose.
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:56 PM   #109
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I'm in fort polk and i got one, but yesterday someone switched lanes and hit me so yeah I'm kinda pissed off right now >:-/
Thats effed up! How bad? Pics?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:03 PM   #110
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i can tell you on stock suspension it oversteering quite eagerly at the north track of nola motor. spun out twice but then again it was user error going fast on a track with no track experience. lol
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:35 PM   #111
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Thats effed up! How bad? Pics?
na no pics, it was pretty bad. when he switched lanes i guess it got hold of the bumper and ripped the drive side of the bumper off. I'm pretty sure the frame and subframe are messed up. words can't describe how fucking mad i am
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:36 PM   #112
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Just got the KWs on. About 2 1/4 hours by my self. EXACTLY the same as my 2011 WRX. The rear camber bolts will add some time to this, mine are not due in till Monday. You will need a set of hollow sockets and ratchet, and allen wrenches. Did not need spring compressors for the rear. Did not have to take apart the front as I used the Whiteline tops. Make sure you put the front endlink back on before you tighten the coilover. I did not and had to loosen them to get it in on one side.
Initial drop is 1 3/4" without adjusting anything. Went from 14 1/2" to 12 3/4" hub to fender. Still within specs, but I think I will raise quite a bit.
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