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Old 05-01-2013, 07:13 PM   #99
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did you use a boost leak tester? That is the coupler on the throttle body yes? That would be the source of your boost leak, or at least one of them in case there are multiple.

I would remove both clamps, re-seat the coupler and pipe, put the clamps back on. check for leak again, then drive it AFTER you verify that leak is fixed.
no boost leaker test but soapy water

i tight the clamp really good, spray more soapy water and no bubbles
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:19 PM   #100
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Quote:
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did you use a boost leak tester? That is the coupler on the throttle body yes? That would be the source of your boost leak, or at least one of them in case there are multiple.

I would remove both clamps, re-seat the coupler and pipe, put the clamps back on. check for leak again, then drive it AFTER you verify that leak is fixed.

Also, did you get your gauge sorted out so you can see both AFR and boost?
not yet about the gauge
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:31 PM   #101
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Went to test it and still same shit
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:36 PM   #102
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no boost leaker test but soapy water

i tight the clamp really good, spray more soapy water and no bubbles
OK, well, i don't understand how you pressurized the charge pipe without a tester but regardless. That was the most likely place to have a leak that would cause you to run rich (after the maf). You can take it for an easy drive and SLOWLY roll into boost. I would advise you get your gauge sorted first but it's your car and your call.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #103
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Went to test it and still same shit
When the car stops making power all of a sudden, does your AFR go to LEAN, or stay very rich?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:10 PM   #104
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When the car stops making power all of a sudden, does your AFR go to LEAN, or stay very rich?
goes to 8 so rich
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:24 PM   #105
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goes to 8 so rich
One more sign its boost leak. Tow it with the friend back to the shop.You'll be glad later.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:47 PM   #106
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One more sign its boost leak. Tow it with the friend back to the shop.You'll be glad later.
where to check for leak?
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:49 PM   #107
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where to check for leak?
Every single clamped intake pipe connection. From the filter, to the compressor, to the intercooler and all the way to the throttle body.

start with all the connections that are between the MAF sensor and the throttle body.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:04 PM   #108
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if you cant find the "boost leak" i say just tow it.. you will look back and be like im glad i did!! better safe than sorry 10K(rebuilt motor) < $700 (tow) IMO of course...and if you cant tow and rather drive like said before you can easily drive out of boost set your REV limit light under so it can remind you lol
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:43 PM   #109
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All the clamps that are in the engine bay are tight
The only ones i couldnt reach was the intercooler ones
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:01 PM   #110
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Well take the bumper off and check it out, it takes no more then 10 minutes to do it
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:01 PM   #111
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Ok guys
Great news!!!!!!!

While i was waiting for my friend to help me do some data logging i took all the clamps off (not the intercooler ones) and put them back and tight them good.

When we were doing the data logging my car went in to boost fine

My AFR was around 10-10.5 and my psi was from 6.8 to 7.2

Now i feel that my car is working fine

Thanks very much to @brichard0625 for making this long trip and helping me out.
I think he brought me luck.

Thanks to all the people here who help me out too.

Just waiting on John to check my logs and go from there.

Now i need to figure out how to install windows on a mac
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:45 PM   #112
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Luck doesn't seal boost leaks, glad you got it sorted
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