Turbo Problems please help

[kombatlion]

Originally Posted by nonicname

mmm I'm not liking all these turbo kit problems.

Exactly what I think, not liking this Turbo problems I am observing all over the place. I think I keep going the Supercharge Side!

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by kombatlion

Exactly what I think, not liking this Turbo problems I am observing all over the place. I think I keep going the Supercharge Side!

The issue is not turbo vs supercharger... you can pop a motor on either one. The issue is quality installation, quality documentation, end user education, proper monitoring and instrumentation etc etc.

[kombatlion]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

The issue is not turbo vs supercharger... you can pop a motor on either one. The issue is quality installation, quality documentation, end user education, proper monitoring and instrumentation etc etc.

Is just scary for us who need to decide on NA,SC, or TC how many problems are coming up with TC... not trying to talk bad acout SC is just scary men! I have not rear any problem with SC yet but I keep reading. I need 250whp to be a happy FRS owner and NA is not taking me there so I need to decide what to do.

[SkullWorks]

The automotive aftermarket is a frustrating place to hang out if you are educated on the actualities of mechanics. So many people get fed BS and don't have a way to readily confirm it so they accept it as fact.

For instance the Chap a few posts up, a supercharger may have less parts but it acts fundamentally similar, with a boost leak or stuck bypass valve you can have very similar issues, and it gets worse if you buy into that centrifugal BS that everyone loves to sell now.

[kombatlion]

Originally Posted by SkullWorks

The automotive aftermarket is a frustrating place to hang out if you are educated on the actualities of mechanics. So many people get fed BS and don't have a way to readily confirm it so they accept it as fact.

For instance the Chap a few posts up, a supercharger may have less parts but it acts fundamentally similar, with a boost leak or stuck bypass valve you can have very similar issues, and it gets worse if you buy into that centrifugal BS that everyone loves to sell now.

Thanks that what I want to hear from people before buying anything for $5K

And thanks to Whitefrs for sharing this problem with us, at the same time he learn and obtain help we get educated,, hope your problem fix soon, fast and sheap!!!

[Marcoscrdo]

Is this normal problems for turbo? Reason why i dont want to go turbo cause i wont be able to fix the problem..

[AZFA20]

I have to admit this is one of few forums I have been on over the years that there really is a lack of general knowledge on high dollar modifications. Forced induction on an originally NA car is not exactly for the faint of hearts and does require at the very least a good understanding of electronic engine control and forced induction fundamentals. Especially on a unique engine such as the FA20 with its abnormally high CR. At the same time I applaud those who jump into the deep end of the pool before they may be ready because it often acquires a steep learning curve from which they will ultimately benefit from however, it may be the more expensive route haha. These types of problems I always try to stay away from because without any real data (i.e. datalogging during the event) there is no way to diagnose this problem. Suggesting he start ripping into anything and everything to try and find a problem I am guessing the OP is not really qualified to diagnose to begin with may just complicate the actual cause. I understand people want to help him but he really needs to just get the vehicle to a qualified tech that can easily pinpoint the problem while actually observing what is going on. Especially before individuals start placing blame on an installer, tuner, product manufacture, or even forced induction method. I hate seeing someones reputation get bruised in the process of a situation such as this when it could just be something simple.

Put the car on a trailer and haul it to a shop. $700 is likely a price @Frs300 would have much rather paid than his now $10k bill. $700 sucks but it is a lot better than causing damage that surpasses your tow bill. If it turns out to be nothing you learned a $700 lesson and this falls right in line with the old adage "you have to pay to play" those who are learning pay a little extra.....

[radroach]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

The owner clearly stated that it's his first boosted car and is willing to learn and edcuate him self... So cut him some slack and go easy on him

as my friends told me, you don't buy a $25k car and just start throwing stuff on there.

Sure we gotta start somewhere, and somebody has to be the guinea pig, but I'm not going to be it.

And if going to modify, make sure you have the right equipment- like an ecutek cable.

[Subzero]

If you want to be the first on your block with a new toy, you'll also be the first on the block to have the problems. Personally, I wait to see what shakes out with things like this. Sometimes the guy who "has to have it first" is the first to blow something up. Patience is a virtue. So is reading good information, which is often hard to find on any forum. Mods can run thousands, but the factory manuals, a few hundred. The manuals are a better investment, even if they are un-sexy or lack status.

[Visconti]

Owner didn't contact me until after this thread was created.

Sounds like a boost leak or AVCS maybe deactivated causing a rich condition.

I yet to have a single datalog from this car , but what was flashed in should be pretty spot on.

He's not in a position to datalog, but the car does have a overboost and if it was hitting it, the car wouldn't be going rich.

I've told him to just drive it to the shop and to stay off boost.

Don't think he has anything to worry about

-John

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by Visconti

Owner didn't contact me until after this thread was created.

Sounds like a boost leak or AVCS maybe deactivated causing a rich condition.

I yet to have a single datalog from this car , but what was flashed in should be pretty spot on.

He's not in a position to datalog, but the car does have a overboost and if it was hitting it, the car wouldn't be going rich.

I've told him to just drive it to the shop and to stay off boost.

Don't think he has anything to worry about

-John

John you have been a great help and many thanks
As well to all the people on this forum who had help me out.

My friend will tow it for me just for diesel money so thats much better than driving it and risking my engine

Again Thanks John and all the people who had help me

[whitefrs]

So i did a boost leak check with soapy water and this clamp was loose cuz it was making lots of bubbles.

Should indrive it now to see if that was the problem? Like goin into boost

[whitefrs]

Sorry here is the pic

[mad_sb]

did you use a boost leak tester? That is the coupler on the throttle body yes? That would be the source of your boost leak, or at least one of them in case there are multiple.

I would remove both clamps, re-seat the coupler and pipe, put the clamps back on. check for leak again, then drive it AFTER you verify that leak is fixed.

Also, did you get your gauge sorted out so you can see both AFR and boost?