digital_assassin's Raven FR-S Five Axis Edition

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by JIMs|a|MILLION

Great thread so far. It's good to see someone taking the hands on approach and fixing all the rattles themselves.

did 5AD follow up and fix the adhesive problem with the kit?

Thanks! Still working on it but yeah, they are taking care of me. Five Axis cares about their customers! It's taking a while because I had to travel to get this car and they want to make sure it's fixed locally so I don't have to deal with the inconvenience of heading north to fix it. I am a fan for life of Five AD based on how they care about their customers and product.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

Been another busy weekend working on the 86. Headlights are back on the car less LED's. This really sucks because I almost had the locations perfected but my wife noticed the color shift. I would have waited to close but need the car so if I am going to do any type of LED I will need to reopen.

I spent a lot of time this weekend killing the rattles that my stereo creates. The rear deck panel and 3rd brake light will give anyone with a subwoofer a lot of grief.
I took the rear deck panel out and insulated with 1/2" High Density Foam cut to the size of the panel and then forced everything back together. Nice and tight now, no more rattle from there.
The 3rd brake light is a bit of another issue. Lots of pieces and parts that are not fit together very well from the factory. The clear lens rattles against the housing and the led strip rattles against the clear lens. I ended up plastic epoxying all the pieces together in crucial spots to fix this.
The passenger door rattle we are all experiencing is mostly from the switch. I disassembled it and placed Bat Tape around the contact points of the pieces and shoved some 1" High Density foam between the back panel and circuit board. There was a little white pop out cover that needed to be silenced in both doors as well as the yellow plug right next to it. Bat Tape and foam solved this too.
Overall the rattles are mostly gone. Need to go through the dash and sort that out as well as the C Pillar. When removing the rear deck the C Pillar seemed like a spot that may rattle and now that the rear deck is quiet I think I am getting something from the C Pillars, but not very bad.

Maybe a How-To is in order?

I for one do not want any rattle from a car I spent $40k on.

Post quotes in 3.....2.....1.......

[BioRage]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

Sorry bud.

I enjoyed your car before this.

I'm going to hate on this, but to each their own I suppose.

Let Audi's be Audi's.

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by BioRage

Sorry bud.

I enjoyed your car before this.

I'm going to hate on this, but to each their own I suppose.

Let Audi's be Audi's.

They were removed. Couldn't get them to look right anyway so I 86ed em over the weekend.

[BioRage]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

They were removed. Couldn't get them to look right anyway so I 86ed em over the weekend.

:happy0180:

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by Synack

Maybe a How-To is in order?

I for one do not want any rattle from a car I spent $40k on.

Post quotes in 3.....2.....1.......

I suck at how-to's. I'm generally moving too fast and forget to take pictures

[SkAsphalt]

Where did you pick up this "bullet proof seal" any general automotive store? like a partsource type store?

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

Yah, don't worry about opening them. I am doing oven at 225 degrees for 12 minutes on a cookie sheet. To close I scrape out all the old buty (PITA) and lay in new for a bulletproof seal. Bake black side only at 225 for 10 minutes and then clamp them.

I may open up for a fourth time and put in XB LED Halos since the strips don't color match. Not sure if I want to though since putting the bumper back on is such a tedious task. The Five Axis lip makes this process more difficult due to the fender liner and lip fit.

[digital_assassin]

It can be found at Autozone, Carquest, etc. It's what is used to seal new windshields to the car. 3M calls it Window Ribbon and it is generically called Butyl Windshield Sealant

You'll need 1/4" or 3/8" bead size. If you go the 3/8" route you can stretch it, it just needs to lay in the trough.

I'll take a picture of the packaging when I get home for the stuff I found at Autozone.

[DrPeaches113]

Hey digital_assassin... thanks for those measurements a while back... haven't been back to the forum in order to thank you since my FR-S arrived Saturday! Got the HID kit, running LEDs, and halos from TRS, and I'm going to play around with what looks best... your pictures/advice are definitely going to help! Only problem is HIDs are backordered right now so it might be a week or two until I can take a crack at it :/ Anyway... thanks again!

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by DrPeaches113

Hey digital_assassin... thanks for those measurements a while back... haven't been back to the forum in order to thank you since my FR-S arrived Saturday! Got the HID kit, running LEDs, and halos from TRS, and I'm going to play around with what looks best... your pictures/advice are definitely going to help! Only problem is HIDs are backordered right now so it might be a week or two until I can take a crack at it :/ Anyway... thanks again!

No problem. Be sure to verify the LEDs are color matched! If I was going to mount them again I would probably use silicone, after playing around with locations. Watch out for reflections inside the lens. The bottom is painted black so placement will be critical.

[Synack]

Wonder if I could steal the LED's from the newer Lexus's.

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by Synack

Wonder if I could steal the LED's from the newer Lexus's.

Anything can be done given you have money and time Usually when trying to retro parts out of another vehicle you will need to buy some extra parts to sacrifice while perfecting the retro. The Lexus LEDs are fairly large and drilling the housing would likely be required somewhere along the line.

[digital_assassin]

Driving to work this AM and while getting onto the freeway I heard a the distinct bang of rock to metal. Got to work and looked for the damage and there it was. Shit, first rock chip right side hood at the fender bump. It's pretty minor and validates my thoughts that the factory clear bra wound do shit since the car is so low. The rock chip is about a foot above where the clear bra ended.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by digital_assassin

Driving to work this AM and while getting onto the freeway I heard a the distinct bang of rock to metal. Got to work and looked for the damage and there it was. Shit, first rock chip right side hood at the fender bump. It's pretty minor and validates my thoughts that the factory clear bra wound do shit since the car is so low. The rock chip is about a foot above where the clear bra ended.

I got on around the bottom of the front bumper a few days ago. I'm hoping that the Five Axis installation will cover it